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I Forge Iron

penny scrolls


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I don't particularly like the penny scroll. Just don't care for the way it looks.

I've never personally forged one (that I remember,) but I have seen them forged in the past.

Well, it's one of those things you keep putting off but eventually have to try. So today I tried forging a penny scroll.

Here are three that I did. The first was 1/4x1-inch and the other two were 1/4x3/4-inch.

The first one was a complete and utter disaster. A crack developed after a couple of heats and it was such an unrepairable mess that I didn't even start scrolling it.

The second turned out better. It took about 8 to 10 heats and was ok.

The third took five heats total and was much better although the penny isn't the greatest circle in the world.

Here they are first, second, and, third pictured left to right.
DSC05055.jpg

I did a whole bunch of techniques today. Just playing around in scrap. The penny scroll was the only one I'd never done though. All of it was done with a hand hammer and anvil except for one of the round tapers. (One was done with a hand hammer, one with the power hammer.)

DSC05053.jpg
DSC05054.jpg

My results were as follows.

square corner in 1/2-inch square bar: 5 heats
drop-the-tongs weld in 1/2-inch round bar including, scarfing, welding, and dressing: 4 heats (round bar with slit and drift hole)
round taper in 1/2-inch square bar: 2 heats by hand, 1 heat under the power hammer
1/4-inch tenon in 1/2-inch square: 2 heats
fish tail scroll in 1/4x1-inch flat bar: 3 heats
1/2-inch round slit and drift hole in 1/2-inch round stock: 2 heats
snub end scroll in 1/2-inch square: 3 heats
penny foot in 1/4x1-inch flat bar: 1 heat
two 1/4-inch round holes punched and countersunk in 1/4x1-inch flat bar: 1 heat total

I have no idea if these times are good by comparison with a smith of my experience. I sure hope they are!
Anyway, thought you all would enjoy!

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Hey Dave I wish my first ones were that nice. I will make a suggestion, when looking at a half penny scroll look at the negative space. In my oppinion you made the scroll a little tight in that your neg. space stays the same for a while instead of growing from the start on out. Keep up the great work.

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Good job! Too many people forget to do that tuck before you roll and that's what makes the hay-penny. (The hay-penny is actually the English half-penny, but they say it the other way. It's a big coin.) Too many just have the disc on the end of the bar and start the scroll. You need to do that tuck or squish first so the transition from the disc to the bar gradually flows out. Way to go, Dave!
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Good job! Too many people forget to do that tuck before you roll and that's what makes the hay-penny. (The hay-penny is actually the English half-penny, but they say it the other way. It's a big coin.) Too many just have the disc on the end of the bar and start the scroll. You need to do that tuck or squish first so the transition from the disc to the bar gradually flows out. Way to go, Dave!




Thanks for that pointer. On the scond one I did not do that tuck prior to scrolling and once I started scrolling I realised something wasn't right. So I undid it and then redid it.
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Dave
Nice to see practice pieces..... practice practice practice,

I always like to bend scrolls to warm up and give my eye something to focus on. You can make a hardy to start scrolls with that will give you a nice tuck at the beginning of the roll. :)

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Unfortuneately doing craft show items, I don't get to do a lot of penny scrolls, snub ends, fish tails etc. I've taken classes and seen them demonstrated, and even done one here and there, but not with any regularity.

I bend a lot of small round taper scrolls by hand, on my dinner bells, but that's about it. I do try to incorporate forge welding, slit and drift, rivets, mortise and tenon, and punching in some craft show items to keep me in practice. I still need pieces that include collars and various styles of scrolls.
A scroll starter is on the "tool making" list now too!
Nice to hear from you Mr. Eddie! Things going well your way?

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