poundhound Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I have been looking through the forms to try to improve my blacksmithing. It has become apparent to me that in addition to years of practice to be a good smith (and make good products), you need good tools. I came across this thread by Brian Brazeal (I truly great man/smith/teacher).http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/12321-tools-from-spring/ I have tried it but have some questions since some of the punches I have made have broken in use. In the thread Brian states in response to treating the spring tools: I used oil for these. I could have used water on those tools. My choice of water or oil depends on the tool and the material I'm using. here I am going to be talking about 4140 and 5160. I'll use oil for a larger bodied tool like a hammer, top tool, or hardy tool, and usually water for smaller profiles like chisels or punches, but when using water I take care with the length of heat I get and the length that I quench. I'll only bring about 3/4" up to heat then quench about half of that moving it slightly up and down. If you quench the whole heat it will break. I'll draw a temper with the remaining heat maybe up to 3 times quenching like above in between draws. I'll let the tool cool down where I can hold it then test it by hitting it over my horn 3 times. If I did anything wrong or if the used spring was already stressed it will break. The main thing when forging small punches an chisels is not to over heat, don't over beat, and be mindful of the heat treat. Most of the punches and chisels I make are done in one heat for the working end unless I am going to round. A one heat taper is so much stronger than a taper that requires reheating the previously forged start of a taper. It may be I am just unfamiliar with the terms, or phrases. does he mean heat the piece to 3/4 temp, or 3/4 of the tool? what does " I'll draw a temper with the remaining heat maybe up to 3 times quenching like above in between draws." mean any help appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 He is only heating 3/4 inches of the working end to critical heating This would be the sharp end of a chisel After he quenches the tool 2/8 to 1/2 inch there will still be heat above that area. He quickly polishes the working end and watchs for the color to run toward the end. When the color he wants is near theend he again quenches 1/2 " deep cooling. Again there is still heat in the rest of the tool. He polishes the oxide (color) off the working end and watches the color to agin run Repeating intil he has dont this 3 times or the color stops running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Thanks, Roger! Yes, what Roger said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poundhound Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 thank for the clarification. the heat treating thing is new to me, and apparently I did not get it right (when punch broke in two). will try again with minimal heat on springs. then do the heat treating as describe above. After that it is only shaping the ends (may be the hardest part). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wargo New2bs Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are saying, but are you heat treating it before you shape the end? The following video will give you an idea what Brian is talking about. The heat treating starts at about 6:39. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uL6RtsM8Sk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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