iron woodrow Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 my camera has refused to co operate, but that hasnt stopped me working on it, and after spending 8 hrs in the hot tropical sun (35 c at 98% humidity) to remove 10x 2" nuts, i removed the main cyclinder. i WILL get PHOTOS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neaves Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Can't wait to see how this works, I'm picking uo a new (to me) deisel compressor this spring and your giving me ideas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41924895@N07/sets/72157628439741909/ i have added some new shots of the restoration process to this slideshow/set any advice or suggestions/comments welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hey Woody if you go with the handle on the hammer that is there now I would suggest that you make the modification that is shown in the photos. It stops the hammer from breaking your hand if you bring the head up too fast and it hits the trigger. Believe me it will break your hand every time. All that we have done is to put a spring loaded joint in the shaft of the handle. When the head comes up the spring takes all the shock and does'nt pull the handle out of your hand. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seldom (dick renker) Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 woodyarmourerSounds like your having fun. I'm thinking that if you run this by steam or air you will have to make sure that either one is saturated with oil for lub on the inside. This is simular to a steam locomotive setup. You don't have to wring it out of the air or steam but it needs to be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 thanks for your post seldom, what would be a good oil for steam? i would love the idea of steam, and i am looking into getting a professionally reconditioned boiler. or traction engine........ :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seldom (dick renker) Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 The oil that they use is thick like molassas. try talking to the folks that are restoring the steam loco and see if they have any leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 trying to work out the best finish to go for..... should i just oil up the rusty surfaces, or go the whole hog and completely repaint and polish??? i am not sure the best paint to use, if i do end up running it on steam...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 i spent 5 hours with a needle gun/scrabbler and cup brush on an angle grinder today, cleaning the worst of the rust and other caked on crud. it has been too long since i got out to give it a bit of tlc, with all this blasted rain! very happy with my progress. someone had tried to weld the anvil to the base to stop it moving, but the dissimilar metals would not be thwarted so easily! anvil dovetail is wrought firewelded to the steel anvil, and the cast base would not hold the weld material. they should have just replaced the terrible wedge that was in place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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