Countryforge Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 At a recent blacksmith demonstration I had the opportunity to watch Paul Allen from England I was amazed at the control he got out of his side tuyere forge. He repeatedly forge welded with no flux his selection of where to place the heat was amazing. The only question I asked in all humility was about the forge, he said that's all he's ever used. Finding a Blacksmith book from Britain I proceded to replicate the forge. On my first fire it was great to see the forge in action. Even with a hand crank it worked well. With $50 in total material it was worth it. Quote
David Einhorn Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 Excellent, a great job, thank you for sharing. What "Blacksmith book from Britain" did you find? Quote
Countryforge Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 The book is The Blacksmith's Craft by the Rural Development Commission. The size is 2' x 2' with a 7/8 air hole the tuyere goes 9 inches into the hearth and is 3 inches off the bottom. With the cooling tank I can move it back and up and down with shims for different fire positions. A 1 inch fire brick protects the bottom from heat. When I ran it the bottom got hot but not above 200 F Quote
musk-rat Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 How did that hood do? Did it draw well? Thanks Quote
Countryforge Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 The hood was great 8 inch chimney 5 feet above the roof, no smoke in the shop very warm to the hand at high heat. Quote
tzonoqua Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Looks good! What did you use for the tuyere? Quote
Countryforge Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 It was made from high temp stainless surrounded with 1 1/2 tube steel...Air hole is 7/8 " the water tank is 5 x 24 x 24 high. In the demo Paul Allen worked the steel so well around the fire commenting on soaking the steel prior to forge welding. Quote
Wesley Chambers Posted October 19, 2011 Posted October 19, 2011 Hey country is that a hypona I see in the background? I have one myself, had to order a new jet from canada ( mine was missing ) but my heat is far from welding that it used to be, hows yours running? Quote
Countryforge Posted October 19, 2011 Author Posted October 19, 2011 Just the same, no welding heat also. Good for production work, can keep steel in it all day without melting. ha ha Quote
Wesley Chambers Posted October 19, 2011 Posted October 19, 2011 heh yea thats true, the one I owned used to be in use at the horseshoeing school, when we pumped it to about 30psi we could weld but it took some work lol but its a great forge for basic horseshoes Quote
Francis Trez Cole Posted October 19, 2011 Posted October 19, 2011 Is this the bookhttp://www.hct.ac.uk/Downloads/cp_blacksmith.html Quote
Countryforge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Posted October 20, 2011 <ul> <li>Yes. In the second part it shows the forge. I tried to make it as close as possible. After a week of working at it I am still learning how well it heats and forges .</li> </ul> Quote
Francis Trez Cole Posted October 20, 2011 Posted October 20, 2011 the first forge I used was a side blast they work well Quote
Countryforge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Posted October 20, 2011 This forge gives you confidence, forge welding is much easier. You can see the metal as it reaches temperature. The selection as to where you want heat is also better. I still use my bottom draft forges for other work like larger pieces. Quote
Countryforge Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 It has been three months since the side draft was built. It works all too well. I had some concern with the water freezing in the boss, but a gallon of windshield washer antifreeze in the water works well, minus 20 and it is not frozen. Quote
Countryforge Posted January 19, 2012 Author Posted January 19, 2012 Ontario, Canada yes it gets cold here. Quote
cvmikeray Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Do you have any pics of the tuyere build up? Quote
Countryforge Posted January 23, 2012 Author Posted January 23, 2012 The tuyere is simple I had some two inch stainless square tubing laying around that was nine inches long and was welded to the boss. The pipe 7/8 ID was placed through the square tube and a square stainless piece was welded to the tube and around the pipe. The pipe going through the boss was welded and leak tested . When I start up the forge you can hear the water boiling on start up and then it starts to circulate naturally. I clean out what little clinker there is and inspect the tuyere daily a small piece of cut off sliver which is still on the end is still there not burned off. It gets hot enough steel does melt in the fire. Quote
HWooldridge Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 -20 F would kill me - I'd freeze solid walking to the shop. Have you tried an electric blower with damper or stuck with a hand blower (and if the latter, how big is it)? Quote
Countryforge Posted January 24, 2012 Author Posted January 24, 2012 On of my shops is in a small Livery, at the time there was no power so all the work was done manually. I would precut most of the pieces but some still were cold or hot cut. The hand blower stayed, the owners put in a plug for me so I will go to an electric blower soon. Quote
Countryforge Posted March 28, 2012 Author Posted March 28, 2012 Interest in a side blast forge? Since building the forge I have wondered if I could get enough heat out first with a hand blower, and enough to forge some large pieces. This forge will heat up 3 inch steel in no time and locate the heat in just the right spot. Quote
Countryforge Posted September 16, 2012 Author Posted September 16, 2012 The side blast forge I built a while back has worked quite well comparing it to a bottom draft, I use about 40% less coal for the same jobs, although I use it for smaller projects 3/4 inch and under. Forge welding is much easier as is control of the fire Quote
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