Just starting out, and was wondering if anyone can give me advice. Until i get something more practical i plan to use a length of RR. Problem is it ony is 8 inchs long and 22# in weight. I want to use it horizontal for more of a face and was wondering if welding 2 pieces of 1 inch mild steel underneath will work in boosting its mass. Can i weld RR to Mild steel with a stick welder? Can i stagger the welds or do i weld all around? Am i just making it heavier, or am i creating more workable Mass? I have a 2 foot long length of I or H Beam, so should/could i weld the 1 inch plate for a larger face to that with the beam in its vertical position? Thankyou for your help in advance.

I would go the easy route and stick it in a bucket of concrete and sink it so you just have some face sticking out maybe 2-3 inches quick and easy mass

Welcome Slim, Welding with the stick welder is the correct method......7018 or SS rod only or it will bust......Now I think you're saying that you'll use the track in it's usual position.......Welding it to the plate would be fine for extra mass, I'd space the welds like 2'' on the corner 2'' middle 2'' corner both sides. The I beam might work for a base if you're not real tall, just weld a plate on either end provided the footprint will be stable.........

or fine do all that neat stuff macbruce said :P

I feel that the time and expense of welding onto it would be better spend sourcing a solid chunk of metal to start with. If you are close to central NM PM me and I'll give you a better piece to start with!

If you must weld on the RR rail remember it's a moderately high carbon steel and should be pre-heated and let cool slowly.

I would drill the base and bolt it solid to a large log or stump, preferably set solid in earth. Being 8 inches long there is little benefit from working on the end vs using the rail upright. Save the plate for something else.

The concrete would be my second choice.

Phil

if you are going to bolt it down to a stump or some such put some cocking between the stump and the bottom of the RR track it will help cut down on the ringing when you are using it

Caulking?

yeah that stuff i am dyslexic and spell phonetically so i am at the mercy of spell check

Thanks everyone for the advice so far. ThomasP, MANY thanks for the offer for the chunk of metal, but im 8,000 miles away in Australia, but still appreciate your kindness. If i do weld, what temp. should i preheat to? I got some

I got some SS type EI-312 rods for dissimilar metals, they do the trick?

They help but don't negate HAZ cracking in the area *next* to the weld.

You basically want enough heat in the material that it doesn't auto-quench the part that gets above critical or if it does it draws temper on it automatically. Meanwhile you want to not soften the rail so you need to be below it's draw temp. my *guess* would be 350-400 degF; but you may want to look it up in a good welding book.

How about you put your general location in your profile, IFI is represented worldwide. It is possible that there is someone close enough to help you with your search.

Phil

How about you put your general location in your profile, IFI is represented worldwide. It is possible that there is someone close enough to help you with your search. Phil

With all the updates/improvements to the site I would think one would be that member location should be mandatory to join. This seems to come up ALOT. Glenn??

I welded a bunch of scrap bar stock into the web area of my track anvil. This converted it from being a mass of metal on top of the thin web to a somewhat more substantial chunk of metal. It still has decent rebound and is handy for small tasks around the shop. I set it in the forge right next to the fire when welding smaller stock.

If you're going invest time and materials in it, you might as well make something that you'll keep after you get a better anvil.

thats my thought as well fciron i still have a piece of RR rail that comes in handy now and then i like to try and build things so that i can keep on using them instead of saying good enough i will toss it down the road when i get something better

What are you going to be making on that bit of rail? If you are making small pieces then the rail will work quite well as it is, especially if you tie it down to a solid stump. Save your time for forging not building an "anvil" as any solid bit of metal will work for you.

Old rail that has the crown worn flat works a lot better than new crowned rail for general forging---the new stuff tens to have the piece scitter off when you strike it if you are not exactly square to it and at right angles to the major axis