Marksnagel Posted September 5, 2011 Posted September 5, 2011 My current brakedrum 55 forge sits on cinderblocks outside under the old oak tree. Over time the blocks shift and settle and I have to re-adjust them. Not a big problem but still a pain. I really like my forge and have made slight modifications to it over time. I use the design that Glenn Conner has posted. Here is some pics and what I did. It works great and hopefully it will last several more years. My brakedrum forge before modification. I took the rest of the 55 gallon drum that was left from making the table for the brake drum and cut it off again along the top rib just above center. I then cut a window in the side of the drum to access the air source and allow me to dump the ash from the tube. If I need to dump ash from the tube while doing a demo, it will fall into the bottom of the drum and not on the ground in someone's park. The forge still needs to sit on one layer of blocks since I'm tall and this also keeps the drum off of the grass. I took the existing forge and placed it inside the drum on the open end. The lip around the 'table' fits inside the rib on the top of the drum. Then I peened over the excess rib onto the lip from the table cinching it down nice and tight. And the finished brakedrum 55 forge that will be used at home and go with me to do a demo in Oct. It ain't pretty (well I think it is), but it works great. To make the original forge took me about two hours. It took me another two hours to make the modifications to the drum on the bottom. Thanks Glenn for the inspiration and advice. Thanks all for looking! Mark <>< Quote
K. Bryan Morgan Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 Mark that is inspiring. Very handy way to do the 55 forge. Well done. Quote
Glenn Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 I did my rebuild a little differently. I have 2 stacks of 4 cinder blocks each I put the forge upon. I cut the other end of the drum just beyond the ring and then straightened out the metal so the ring is now able to fit over (and down upon) the first drum. This now acts as a cover for the forge. The 55 Forge is just the starting point. From there you can modify it in any way that makes life easier for you. Quote
CurlyGeorge Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 Great looking forge, Mark. I sent the link to your post to a friend. He may be making one similar. Thanks for posting the pics. :) Quote
Kid Blacksmith Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 dude, i just built the same one yesterday. aint that a coincidence :ph34r: Quote
knots Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 Mark - I have always thought of the 55 as a useful, quick build, disposable forge. Your version of the 55 demonstrates that the concept can be refined to produce a beautifully crafted, stable forge that is easy to look at. Well Done. Quote
Yance Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 That's a lot like the one I have "in progress". Have to get ready for a show this weekend in Marion, NC so the finish work will have to wait another week. I still have to make the grate and ash dump gate, and cut the clean out access door. Since the bottom is still solid I don't have to worry about leaving a mess if the ash and clinkers miss the bucket. Since I'm tall I left my drum intact, and thought an "open top" drum would be best so when it came time to replace the top all I'd have to do would be cut a 10" hole in another drum lid. The 2" pipe parts show that even without a torch or welder you can build a "starter" forge that will hold up a long time. Quote
Marksnagel Posted October 27, 2011 Author Posted October 27, 2011 Nice looking forge Yance. Last weekend I took a center section of another 55 drum, cut an arch in it and cut some slits so it would fit down over the lip/rim on my current 55 forge. Sorry for only one pic, camera operator "ain't the brightest bulb in the chandoleer." It works great. It keeps the wind from burning up coal un-necessarily. It rotates on the rim to block different wind angles. Next weekend I may take another drum section and shape it in a cone for the top as a short stack. Maybe. Or not. Trial and error. As per Dave's (FireyFurnace) warning about sharp edges, all edges have been bent over and made safe(er). Original idea from Glenn's 55 forge adaptations. Mark Quote
Elemental Metal Creations Posted November 9, 2011 Posted November 9, 2011 I just preformed this operation on my brake drum forge. It works great but the brake drum sticks up about an inch so I am going to clay the drum to bring the table up to the level of the drake drum. my question is, can I use plan morter mix for this? I have some that has been sitting in closed buckets for about 2 years waiting for a use. Quote
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