charliecummings Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Hello all! I received some great advice in the chat channel from some terrific folks last night! As a followup, I'm looking for some instruction / advice. I have a new-to-me rivet forge. It's been suggested that I line the rivet forge it with fire clay in order to protect the forge. After a bit of searching, I've come up short regarding what the lining should look like. Should I line the whole pan evenly, or create a more traditional fire pot shape above the Tuyere? I don't anticipate the forge being mobile, and actually plan top remove the rickety metal legs it came with and place it in a more stable table. Thanks in advance for the advice! Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Way back in 1994 at a L.A.M.A. confrence featuring Frank Turley I heard him reccomend a sand and cement mix 3 parts sand and one part cement (portland cement not concrete) mix moist and it will mold to shape. I used it on my rivet forge and it has lasted since. Fireclay will crack this don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Huh, line it evenly? I thought mine worked best when I made it bowl shaped above the fire pot. Infact, one time I used a bowl for a mold. Stuck it over the tuyere with some of the kid's clay (playdoh!) and poured the refactory around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Could you both post a picture of your conflicting point of view on the level vs bowl over the tue? Thanks. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I lined mine with red clay the first time; it lasted about 20 years or so; then the last time I used fireplace cement from ACE hardware. the whole purpose is to insulate the cast iron from the heat so it won't crack ...I used mine unlined when the red clay fell out and that is what happened and I had to mig it back ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Clad Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I recommend to line it evenly as well, easier to move the coal around. Cracks are common in these small forges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Just add about half a cup of fire clay to the suggested sand/cement mixture to give it a little elasticity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 OK, I think I get where you are going and coming from Stu. How do you handle the area at the tue? Do you form a cylinder or a small dish at that area? How big? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 small dish around the grateI see what you are saying. I guess we were talking the same thing from different sides. Yes, most of my forge is flat, but there is a bowl shape "cup" around the tuyer. My bowl is about 8" in diameter and is the height of one brick, say 2"-3". This allows me a deeper spot for welding and help contains the fire spread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliecummings Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 Wow, reading this thread has made it a lot clearer. Thanks Guys. I wonder if anyone has any pics of their rivet forge lined? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopdiddly Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 I have some pics, but I'm sure I've done it wrong. Should I have done it like the picture in post #3 in this thread instead? I knew the clay would crack, but not as bad as it did, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 I have some pics, but I'm sure I've done it wrong. Should I have done it like the picture in post #3 in this thread instead? http://www.iforgeiro...e-tuyere-grate/ I knew the clay would crack, but not as bad as it did, lol. That is a 8 inch brake drum in that thread. If you extrapolate a flat surface out from there, I think is where this thread is wanting to see. Also that is still wet (really, I did that a few hours ago) Phil Rereading, I think you did as Stewart and Drewed were recommending, but your clay shrank excessively. The shrinking may mean your mix was too wet, or your clay was prone to shrinking. Putting some more clay in between the cracking may be the best answer as I see it. The brake drum in my thread sits in a sheet steel table, there is a slight ridge of the steel that interferes with easy fuel management. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 How long does that sand and Portland mix have to set before I can fire the forge? I also noticed a recommendation to add 1/2 part clay (kaolin?) guess I missed that. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 You can see my rivet forge in the IFI gallery ," a smithy " posted by Joshua M, that is my shop. It too is flat with a bowl shape at the "grate", actually a round stainless steel pipe blind drilled with 3/8" holes. I poured the sand cement mix in the forge and shaped it around the grate. the edges have wore off some but the liner has not cracked after many years and many fires. Why did Josh post pics of my shop? Well we are a biz and my wife and senior partner was concerned that IFI rules against advertising might bite us. Josh did not have a diggy camera and we had an old one so i filled it with pics and sent it to him, thats why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvmikeray Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I have a flat bottom rivet forge and I laid fire place brick (4x9x1) in the bottom and around the sides so it is sort of square now, but the fire brick gives me a little more side wall actually. I left the air hole area open but made the cover out of 3/16 plate with long slits cut with a 4inch grinder cut of wheel. I can pull everything out easy to clean and start fresh. My forge is a flat "Pan" rivet forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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