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I Forge Iron

poopdiddly

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Everything posted by poopdiddly

  1. I have some pics, but I'm sure I've done it wrong. Should I have done it like the picture in post #3 in this thread instead? I knew the clay would crack, but not as bad as it did, lol.
  2. I recently put in a clay lining into my rivet forge. It used clay right out of the ground. I burnished it smooth and I scored a few concentric circles into it. However, it still cracked badly. There has to be over 20 or 25 deep cracks in it that run around the firepot, as well as into the firepot. What should I fill the cracks with? More clay? Or could I use sand or ash? What about lime putty? Thanks!
  3. Yes. I soaked my flange in vinegar overnight, and it took about 60% of the zinc coating off. The rest I could have just peeled away, but I was lazy and just lit the forge and let it burn off.
  4. Glenn and family, I am so sorry for your loss. You are all in my prayers and thoughts. God bless you all.
  5. Would it be overkill to do two straps, one on the rim and one on the bottom of the pan? I already mounted a 1/4" thick x 2 1/2" wide strap over the crack on the bottom of the pan.
  6. It is. I made two forges before this, but I was tired of scrounging up stuff to make one. I wanted something nice and ready to go. I know some scrounging is part of the fun, but I wanted something nice for once.
  7. Thomas, thank you very much. I always over worry about everything. I will need a new tuyere grate though, correct? Centaur Forge has one, and there used to be one on eBay, but I can't seem to find the guy who sells them. I'd also like to line it just as an added layer of protection.
  8. I didn't line it for three reasons. One I've heard you didn't have to. Two, I did a lining with clay once, and it kept falling apart, and lastly, I have no idea where I can find refractory cement around here. Are there any lining recipes that use lime? I attached some more pictures since I got the blower off. ETA: The big crack runs all the way to the top rim of the pan. There are two other small cracks around the air hole. I can try attaching a strap around it. Should I worry about it running through the bolt hole that holds the blower on?
  9. Not 10 minutes after I fix the blower issue, I hear a loud pop as I put a piece of steel back into the fire. The forge cracked. It cracked right through one of the bolts that holds the blower on. It also popped the little grate in the middle clean off. I'll attach a picture of the grate before it broke. It originally had three pieces of iron holding it on. One was missing when I bought it, one was intact, and the other was spot welded. I know I should have lined the pan, but would the lack of lining cause this? My steel was getting up to a bright orange, but no yellows. The blowers seems okay, and I can get a new grate in there. But what about the crack? Is it salvageable? I'm so upset because I've been wanting to forge for months. I finally finished school and bought this forge. And now, I'm back to square one.
  10. One of the blades was rubbing the housing on the back. A little filing and it was all fixed. Until now. See my next thread coming up.
  11. I have a small Cannedy Otto rivet forge that I've been using. I love the thing, but yesterday afternoon, it started making a metal to metal noise when cranking. Today,it has gotten much worse, and it has become harder to crank. It still coasts nicely, but not as nice as a few days ago. I suspect one of the fan blades is hitting the case. I took video of it, and I will try to add it to this post within the next few minutes. Here are some pictures of the forge. What could I do to prevent this? I will have to wait for the forge to cool down before I can remove the blower. If you crank really slow, the sound will stop. But cranking at any other speed, it will make the noise. ETA: Just uploaded the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMRcpnFbCCs
  12. Glad to have helped. Here is another video of hinge making: http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2700/2712.html Good points Neal. Underhill is an expert woodworker and isn't so careless in his field of expertise. But he was getting a little too close for comfort for me in the video.
  13. This is an episode of "The Woodwright's Shop" where Roy visits a blacksmith who makes him a wrought iron pintle. http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3000/3013.html
  14. Beautiful work! I'd say you haven't missed a beat.
  15. Thanks for the answers guys! There was a bit of rust in the hardy hole, as it probably hasn't been used in a long time. I was able to wiggle the turning fork all the way in and seat it with no hammering. It will now go in and out much, much easier. I may have to bring down the size of the cutting chisel's shank as it still won't seat. Although, I do like the suggestion of turning the anvil upside down. :P
  16. I recently bought a chisel hardy and a turning fork. They have a 3/4" shank which is what my hardy hole is on my anvil. The problem is, they won't fit. The chisel hardy's shank is tapered, and it only seats half way in the hardy hole. The turning fork isn't tapered and won't fit at all. However, both tools will fully fit if I come from the bottom of the hardy hole. So, it seems that the very top of the hardy hole is too tight. How should I fix this? Can I take a file or rasp to the hardy hole, or do I need to do that to the tools themselves? Thanks!
  17. I mean it looks too cold to work. I did not take into account that I'm outside and it's bright. I'm a noob. What I may think is colorless steel, might still be cherry red or so. It will still move some, but I wound of cracking a piece of the 1/4 stock yesterday while hammering. So I really don't know how far I can push it. I've been using both 1/4 and 3/8 round stock. For the time being, it's all I have to work with. Also, I'm using a 40oz cross peen hammer.
  18. Yes, it is quite sunny outside. But I only get 5 hits on the steel? I knew it cooled rapidly as you hit it, but that's quick. Guess I have a lot to learn. I will definitely add more charcoal to the top though. Thanks guys!
  19. I too am having this problem with my charcoal forge. I can only get the steel to a dull orange. After about 5 hits, it loses all color. The tuyere is a black steel pipe with lots of holes drilled in the top. It won't blow charcoal out of the forge, but it blows pretty good. My blower is a hair dryer. Normally, I just put it on low, because it blows plenty strong. The other end of the pipe has a threaded cap on it. Should I unscrew that cap, or should I be adding more charcoal or something else? I also can't seem to get the end of the steel hot. The part that gets orange is usually 1-2 inches from the end. Could me using stainless steel have anything to do with it?
  20. Well finally, I got my forge liner finished, and I fired it all up. I did three fires, small to large, to help cure the liner. Everything's been working great since.
  21. Oh no, we have tons of Mississippi River clay here. I'm actually renting right now, so I don't want to dig up the yard. I actually had to redo the forge liner, because the BBQ pit stand broke, causing the liner to break into quite a few pieces. I have since made it much thicker on the sides and on the bottom. I'm just waiting for it to dry, and I will post pics when it does. Thank you all for your help!
  22. All great ideas, and they look very nice. Unfortunately, I don't have any steel studs laying around. I'm kind of strapped for cash, and I was trying to make due with what I have. I build wooden furniture, so I was wondering if I could build a wooden base, or apron, then put a steel top on that. Then, I would mount the forge to the steel top. Would that work? And would it be safe to have the wood so close?
  23. What's a good idea for a forge stand? The stand for my BBQ pit forge was way too wobbly, and it eventually broke. Not a good idea to have a 2000+ degree fire on a falling forge! Can I build a wooden one, or is that a no no? What about a metal nightstand/shelf type thing? I know nothing about welding, so building something that way is out of the question.
  24. Just bought this 100# Vulcan for $100. It seems nice to me, especially for the price.
  25. Never mind. I see a 10 on the other side, so it should be 100 pounds.
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