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hammer making


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oh, that is strange... Brian said that he (usually, when he had it ; which he usually does) used 1045 or 4140 ( while preferring the 1045 because it yields more to the hammer ). I know that at least for the past couple of years... Brian has been using 1045 and 4140. So i am puzzled.
Any way... very nice hammers!

alec

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oh, that is strange... Brian said that he (usually, when he had it ; which he usually does) used 1045 or 4140 ( while preferring the 1045 because it yields more to the hammer ). I know that at least for the past couple of years... Brian has been using 1045 and 4140. So i am puzzled.
Any way... very nice hammers!

alec

Alex 1045 is a steel that can be water hardened I like 1095 or 4140 they are oil hardened yes it is a harder metal but works well for me I have a power hammer so you get a little more force if you need it both of these were forged by hand. The 1095 was a drop at my metal supplier. The piece was long enough to get three hammers out of it and if you do not have to pay prime price. There is a lot about metals and there properties next you will have to study some metallurgy it is a vast subject I know some but I know where to look up and research what I am working with, Thanks for your comments and I hope this helps with the decision I made in the selection of metal that I chose. I learned a lot from Brian when he came to my shop to do a demo he is a great teacher
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  • 3 weeks later...

1095 is just a tad higher carbon than most would want for a hammer, but so long as it is properly heat treated, it will work just fine. The biggest pain in working it is going to be that it is harder at heat than 1045, but if you have a power hammer to work it, that is a minor problem. I'd suggest oil quenching it, to reduce initial hardness, and tempering it like you would 1045, and you should end up with roughly the same hardness as water quenched 1045. Might even be hard enough normalized, though I kinda doubt it, as you'd end up with more iron carbides than you would probably want.

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1095 is just a tad higher carbon than most would want for a hammer, but so long as it is properly heat treated, it will work just fine. The biggest pain in working it is going to be that it is harder at heat than 1045, but if you have a power hammer to work it, that is a minor problem. I'd suggest oil quenching it, to reduce initial hardness, and tempering it like you would 1045, and you should end up with roughly the same hardness as water quenched 1045. Might even be hard enough normalized, though I kinda doubt it, as you'd end up with more iron carbides than you would probably want.

I normalized it twice and it worked just fine under the hand hammer. I also oil quenched it they work real nice one is going to a raffle for FABA to help raise money for the chapter at the confrence
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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm sure I'm just not looking in the right area, But at the moment I'm really interested in making my own tools for some reason. I know material wise It's probably not any cheaper than just buying one. My primary concerns at the moment are more tongs (I've found several instructions, tutorials etc, and worst case scenario, they can just be welded) and then I'd really like to make a nice little hammer.. maybe 2 - 2 1/2lbs or so. But I haven't been able to find a really detailed set of instructions about hammer making.

I also know that if I'm still working on forging tongs and such, making my own hammer probably shouldn't be high on my list. Lots more practice first. But someone once told me you learn faster if you enjoy what you're doing. So I'm going with that method :)

Thanks for the assistance guys, and Francis, those hammers look awesome to me.

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I'm sure I'm just not looking in the right area, But at the moment I'm really interested in making my own tools for some reason. I know material wise It's probably not any cheaper than just buying one. My primary concerns at the moment are more tongs (I've found several instructions, tutorials etc, and worst case scenario, they can just be welded) and then I'd really like to make a nice little hammer.. maybe 2 - 2 1/2lbs or so. But I haven't been able to find a really detailed set of instructions about hammer making.

I also know that if I'm still working on forging tongs and such, making my own hammer probably shouldn't be high on my list. Lots more practice first. But someone once told me you learn faster if you enjoy what you're doing. So I'm going with that method :)

Thanks for the assistance guys, and Francis, those hammers look awesome to me.


Brian Brazeal is in Mississippi not to far from Alabama he teaches classes on tong making and hammer making you will not find a finer teacher.
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Unforgivun, you are just a stone's throw from Tannehill State Park, where the Alabama Forge Council holds their state meetings. You should join them ASAP, not just for the educational opportunities, but for the tailgating and personal interactions. www.alaforge.org

Batson's Bladesmith meet in the spring is a world class event.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have had some more time in the shop This 4 pound hammer is made of 4130 2 1/4" round stock, got the metal for 90 cents a pound punched it by hand and during the drifting rounded one face with a die I made for my power hammer, I also flattened out the sides on the power hammer.


Unforgiven Mark Aspery has 2 books and there is a great hammer making tutorial in them a very good read he also has videos on you tube

post-3564-0-83901500-1312750016_thumb.jp

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