petere76 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Gents, I need some input on mounting my new tire hammer to a concrete floor in the shop. The floor is not industrial strength, likley around 6 inches thick. It was a garage for many years and is reinforced. The hammer is bolted on a 400 lb steel plate and the plate will be placed on a 7/8 in stall matt. Overall height would be 1- 7/8 in off the floor. Is the best procedure to bolt through the plate or to bracket (offset) the attachment next to the plate? How about the concrete lags, which products and sizes seem to work the best? If any of you have done this and have some photos it would sure help. Thanks. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 How big is your hammer? What kind of hammer? It's VERY important to know before answering your questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Its a Spencer spare tire hammer. The hammer itself is 700 Lbs and the plate its bolted to is 400lbs, for a total weight of @1100 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 With the 400 lb plate I doubt that you need to fasten the hammer to the concrete floor unless it bounces or moves around. Test it first before going to the trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Peter, I also built a tire hammer. My base is probably about 250 pounds, and I had trouble with it wanting to move around a little on my concrete floor. So I welded 4 angle iron clips on the sides and anchored it to the floor with 1/2" concrete fasteners. Now it works like a champ. Hope this helps you. Here's a picture of one of the clips and anchors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecelticforge Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I just finished the hole for the footing for my Fairbanks. I wanted it done last fall but my wife was diagnosed with cancer. I have 18" of reinforced concrete, under ten inches of plywood sandwiched together (except under the anvil, that is end grain oak), and that under one half inch matting. 3/4 inch threaded rod goes through all 3 layers to keep the hammer still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Folks, Thanks for all the suggestions and the photo. The clip idea sounds like the best solution for my set up. This is the first time I have had a power hammer in the shop and I'm playing around with it's position in the work flow scheme of things. I still like to get a truck into the center of the building where the overhead chainfall has access, so just nailing this thing down in the wide open spaces would limit my options on handling heavy items and loading my welder. I see where it works best and go with it. Up till now I have kept the shop very flexible in regard moving things around and that flexibility has really served me well. I'm anxious to get the hammer ( #343 in the Clay Spencer series) properly secured and operational. On the last day of the (Maine 2011) hammer workshop, Clay demonstrated some of his tooling and hammer technique. Despite not being secured to the deck and only steadied by a few strong and willing hands, Clay was still working the hammer like a pro and I'm sure everyone was eager to get home and set up their rigs. I'm on the tooling mission now ala the Alabama Forge Council PDF but if ya got any suggestions for a new power hammer operator, fire away, I'm taking notes. Thanks, Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 If you want to be able to move the hammer occasionally to get it out of the way.... Just make your "hold it in place" capability easily removable. How about welding a five inch 3/4 inch rod on the outside corner of a piece of heavy 2 inch angle iron. Drill holes at the corners of the base and slide the rod into the hole. This will keep the hammer from moving. You would probably only need two of these. When you need to move the hammer, just pull the "keepers" and go to town. If dust or ??? gets in the holes, just blow it out with an air hose... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 If the base is flat and you have a good concrete floor I have had some success with 2 or 3 layers of tar paper. Needs to be new and sticky. It won't keep it from jumping anound but it will help from walking across the floor. When you find out where you want it the clips are a great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 My nazel 2b is mounted on a 3" steel plate and is just sitting on a bed of railroad ties set in bedrock. No anchors of any kind and it has not walked at all and has been there for 4 years now. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Lead inserts would be a good way to anchor it, you can remove the bolts if you need to move the hammer and you are left with noting sticking up above the concrete. Drive in wedge anchors are another option http://www.confast.com/products/thunderstud-anchor.aspx I will usually drill all the way through the floor when using this type of anchor, this allows me to drive them down flush if I move whatever was anchored down- the time that it is not a good idea to drill through a slab is when there is a vapor barrier, that's when you get out the grinder to remove the tripping hazard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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