Greenbeast Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Finally fired up my gas forge, only using a propane torch for now but i am currently building a proper burner. and just picked up my first anvil yesterday, got a good bargain, 1.5cwt for £150, in pretty xxxx good condition, hardly any wear at all! We needed a new curtain rail, so i made these brackets and some finials, the brackets are good enough to be cleaned and painted and used but the finials were just a first go and will be re-done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dex Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Good on ya Greenbeast! Nice to see another UK smith starting with a home made propane forge on a workmate (I did too). I expect you were well chuffed with your first products. I notice your anvil points right, you're left handed then? For the majority, a right hander points his anvil to the left. I made my mind up to go with the majority on this one - and while learning (and I am) you'll notice most books and you-tube vids you will see are all right handers and it's useful to be able to view them "the same way round as mine" as it were. Since you've just started it's not too late to swizzle it round before you get too used to it. Once you get your burner made up you'll be able to get a lot more heat into your metal and the fun can really start. Good to see finishing the burner is the next project. Good luck to you sir! Dex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willis Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 There is nothing like using your own forge to make your own stuff. I enjoy using a small forge I made from watching a Tim Lively video using a hair dryer for an air supply. The sence of pride is a good feeling. Good for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Thanks, Yeah i had a great time. I was unsure what to do about anvil orientation, the way it is now i have better access around the horn. Yeah it was a little painful waiting for the stock to reheat! I've just ordered the gas fittings to run up to the back of the burner, hopefully gonna get some iron pipe/fittings this weekend for the burner body Probably going to knock up a steel frame for the forge, it'll then be higher and i can stop worrying about the amount of sag in the mdf work top of the workmate! Also need to knock up another stand to sit the anvil+stand on as it';s about 10-12cm too low really and my back is telling me about it today. Also I wondered about sealing up the bottom of the anvil stand and filling it with sand to add more mass, worth it or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dex Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Re: need to knock up another stand to sit the anvil+stand on as it';s about 10-12cm too low really and my back is telling me about it today. Lay two breeze blocks on the floor and put the whole stand and anvil up on it, or a few paving slabs if they're knockin about. Easy. Re: I wondered about sealing up the bottom of the anvil stand and filling it with sand to add more mass, worth it or not? I wouldn't worry, unless it's 'walking' as you use it but I doubt that if it's 2cwt all up. In percentage terms it wouldn't add much extra weight anyway. I did put a piece of 1/8" neoprene under each corner of my anvil to deaden the sound a bit. I work in a shed in the garden and apparently you can hear the "tink tink tink" from up in the house - but not enough to annoy the neighbours. One of the bits of cheapish kit that adds a lot early on is a twist knot wire brush on a 115mm angle grinder. Burnishes up your work and makes it look (a bit) like some of the stuff the pros turn out on this site! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 I have some paving slabs spare, good idea. No, no walking, just aware that 'they' always say biggest anvil is best. Fair enough i'll leave it for now. The mat is a good idea, i've very concerned about noise nuisance at the moment as i'm in a garage at the bottom of my garden. Hoping to carry on as long as possible before someone complains and i have to think about moving my activity somewhere else. I have a twist knot wire brush for my small grinder, good tip, i'd experienced this first hand actually when trying to clean up a file for a forging project, with the cup shape i might be able to get inside the 'u' section of my brackets too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caius Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 There is nothing like using your own forge to make your own stuff. I enjoy using a small forge I made from watching a Tim Lively video using a hair dryer for an air supply. The sence of pride is a good feeling. Good for you. what'chu talkin' bout, Willis? lol actually, my brake drum forge runs off an eleven dollar hair dryer from walmart. it's been in the weather for over a year now, still cranks right up when you hit the switch. cant do that with one of the fifty dollar ones though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 We needed a new curtain rail, so i made these brackets and some finials, the brackets are good enough to be cleaned and painted and used but the finials were just a first go and will be re-done Hi Nice to see you getting underway. The anvil should serve you well, With regard to the stand, it looks to be the standard Cast iron box, you could use a piece of old railway sleeper to fit into the recess, and pin the anvil to that, this will help deaden the sound also. Knotted wire brushes! just make sure you wear suitable clothing and eye protection, and that the RPM specified with the wheel is right for your machine, these wheels can be vicious and are no respector of steel, flesh or clothing. Dont be surprised if you have to pick bits of wire from your anatomy after using one. If you are making curtain poles, make sure your curtain rings (if you are using them to hang your curtains by) will fit over the forged ends, otherwise you have to make the second end after you have threaded on the curtain rings, or alternatively at lesast one end should be detachable. Have fun and enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Thanks for your comments, yes i've found the knotted wire brushes can be a little 'jumpy' and 'catchy'. The current rail is a bit of 15mm copper pipe (only used because we've had the windows replaced and needed curtains back up, couldn't use old rail) The new one will be 16x1.5mm steel tube, the finials are forged from 12mm round stock and fit perfectly inside the copper, we'll see what happens when the steel turns up! Anyway the point is that i've made both ends detachable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Thanks for your comments, yes i've found the knotted wire brushes can be a little 'jumpy' and 'catchy'. The current rail is a bit of 15mm copper pipe (only used because we've had the windows replaced and needed curtains back up, couldn't use old rail) The new one will be 16x1.5mm steel tube, the finials are forged from 12mm round stock and fit perfectly inside the copper, we'll see what happens when the steel turns up! Anyway the point is that i've made both ends detachable 12mm diameter will rattle around in 16mm tube, You may be better off going to 16mm diameter bar and forging the ends to fit into the tube, and you may need to clear the seam on the tube by either using a drill to clean out the bore, or forge a flat onto the end fitting in. Make sure the ends are reasonably secure in the tube by whatever means you want to use, If they fall out when in use, they can cause (serious) damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 Ok thanks, i've bought grub screws to go through the rail and tighten against the finial Yeah i did wonder about going bigger and forging down to fit, i had plenty of 12mm on hand to practice with however. Luckily they're not an integral part of a working rail so i can tinker with improving/replacing them once the new 16mm tube is up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen56 Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 good on you mate your own forge is a great thing ,i went away from the standard anvil height thing because it was giving my crook back a wearing,moved it up and much better for sure ,thing to be aware of though ,raising the anvil brings the hammer closer to your head , i always work with my head slanted to the left ,any miss struck blows will go past ,have had hammers past the head in an instant ,just a thought ,take care ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 It was standing about 62cm off the ground as it was and i've now added three paving slabs taking it up to about 70-74cm. I'll see how i get on but this is now at 'standard height' (for me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Johnnie Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 I made my Forge out of an old Cast Iron fireplace insert. Didnt have a fan so I am using compressed air via a regulator. 20 psi and its burning 25mm square bar if left for to long. It certainly gives me a sense of pride when I light it up. I must admitt it took 3 attempts to get it right though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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