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I Forge Iron

Dex

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Everything posted by Dex

  1. Rusty - $1500 seems a bit strong, but you can't argue with 17 years and no abrasive dust (which I'm convinced will get most of us in the end). To do the same job I bought an "Evolution" 355 saw which cuts stock beautifully, no burr - just mirror polished cuts, no dust - just little chips of steel. I've cut 4" square H beams with it - easy. The blades last way longer than they state too, as long as you don't mind a few more seconds on each cut - no problem if'you just lopping a handling length out of a 20' length. They're US made I believe, and pretty reasonably priced here in the UK. When it was new I needed to take a file to some of the castings to ensure the 90 degree cut was actually 90, but after that it's been great - wish I bought it earlier. The thought of waiting 10 minutes to cut 3/4" stock as one post reads here ... do it 4 or 5 seconds with one of these. Dex
  2. Thanks for the tips Frosty, kind words from you experts is just what I need to get back down the shed and get that fire lit! Dex
  3. Wish my 'slapping' was as good.Your bending jig looks the business for repeated similar bends, and perhaps useful for the solo smith-aspirant like me. I guess making different diameter formers accurately is the key, but I suppose if you make a small diameter one (section of 4" pipe perhaps), you could wrap a larger diameter one around it and so on until one has a whole set of 'nested' formers for a range of diameters. I forsee a project in that for me ... thanks for the inspiration Kevan! That gleaming power hammer in the background is the stuff of dreams (at least for me anyway). D
  4. BP I needed a quick project to find an excuse to try some cut twists. I'm learning, so most everything I do is actually trying a technique or method out for the first time. I'm looking forward to a time when I will be repeating techniques! These brackets are sized to support a 6" wide shelf. The red primer and ivory topcoat is scrubbed back and then waxed for a distressed look, it's not that I've painted on top of WD40 .... Dex
  5. Re: need to knock up another stand to sit the anvil+stand on as it';s about 10-12cm too low really and my back is telling me about it today. Lay two breeze blocks on the floor and put the whole stand and anvil up on it, or a few paving slabs if they're knockin about. Easy. Re: I wondered about sealing up the bottom of the anvil stand and filling it with sand to add more mass, worth it or not? I wouldn't worry, unless it's 'walking' as you use it but I doubt that if it's 2cwt all up. In percentage terms it wouldn't add much extra weight anyway. I did put a piece of 1/8" neoprene under each corner of my anvil to deaden the sound a bit. I work in a shed in the garden and apparently you can hear the "tink tink tink" from up in the house - but not enough to annoy the neighbours. One of the bits of cheapish kit that adds a lot early on is a twist knot wire brush on a 115mm angle grinder. Burnishes up your work and makes it look (a bit) like some of the stuff the pros turn out on this site!
  6. Good on ya Greenbeast! Nice to see another UK smith starting with a home made propane forge on a workmate (I did too). I expect you were well chuffed with your first products. I notice your anvil points right, you're left handed then? For the majority, a right hander points his anvil to the left. I made my mind up to go with the majority on this one - and while learning (and I am) you'll notice most books and you-tube vids you will see are all right handers and it's useful to be able to view them "the same way round as mine" as it were. Since you've just started it's not too late to swizzle it round before you get too used to it. Once you get your burner made up you'll be able to get a lot more heat into your metal and the fun can really start. Good to see finishing the burner is the next project. Good luck to you sir! Dex
  7. Yep, done it too. Ran my plasma cutter and compressor off the same semi-spooled extension cord. The insulation on the coiled section went into meltdown. I run all the cable out now and fake it out on the ground.
  8. Mark Aspery - brilliant for sure. Also check out Bill Epps videos on YouTube. That guy has some skill and a style that just makes me feel happy. If you want a quality DVD - I've watched Peter Parkinson's two disc DVD set a few times, very good quality. If you like his two books you'll like the DVDs: http://www.amazon.co...C/dp/1861269773
  9. The S&B I bought from an agricultural engineer in Suffolk who was 'going hydraulic' but originally the press came from a local works wind down/shutdown in the late 60s early 70s. That works was the Richard Garrett works at Leiston. They of "Beyer Garret" fame with double-ended locos all over the world in standard and narrow guages. Garrett for many are known for their agricultural and showmans traction engines, and steam powered fire engines. If you look what the S&B is using for a stand you'll see it is a pair of very heavy castings - usually used in factories to support the pulleys, belts and shafting to distribute power from a central steam unit. These castings (produced in the in-house foundry) were obviously just lying around and became a stand. If you go to Leiston now there is a small part of the plant preserved as a museum, and you can see the same castings here and there. Interesting to think what my press might have helped build in it's heydey. Check out the site. I walked around the shop pretty much alone, and it has the minimum of "modern museum nannying" (no video screens etc!) - it's kinda like me or you would keep it all in a big shed. Freezing cold and smelling of oil and metal. A heavenly couple of hours! http://www.longshopmuseum.co.uk/
  10. Finally got round to getting my Denbigh #3 up off the floor and onto a stand. Result! At the moment it's up against my Sweeney & Blocksidge press, but eventually they'll both have a bit more wing room. They're both results of bargain hunting, the Denbigh cost me £41 and the S&B £31. The Denbigh will easily fold (90 degree bend) 1 x 1/4" bar at a dullish cherry, and the S&B will do that stone cold. I'm experimenting with punching. If anyone's interested in old steam engines I'll add the story of the S&B press.
  11. My mother-in-law has a small blast shelter in the back of her garden dating from the 50's - a bizzare relic of a former owner. She's always found the door 'sinister'. So being a kind soul I took it away for her this weekend. The fact that it is 60x27" of 5/8" plate just might of added motivation for me. It's going to be one sturdy bench top. With fittings it topped 300lb so was a little tricky to float gently across the flower beds, but worth it I think especially given it was at my favourite price (£0).
  12. I used the classic 18kg propane can design. I closed up the back with 1mm sheet over a disc of fibrewool. I kept a hole in the middle for long stock as you describe - and close it with a pad of fibre and a brick. Works well, will take an 18mm bar to forge heat in just 3 minutes, even when just lit. I'll upload a pic. Looking at your pics you're using two burners ... here's something I've never read anywhere: I fitted twin burners with cocks so I can shut one down when I don't need a longer heat. The trouble is, the shut down one conducts so much heat back up the assembly it will melt the rubber supply hose (scary moment!). I have to keep both burners operating as it is the gas flow (with the gasoeus rapid expansion - latent heat etc) that keeps the burner assembly cool and stop the hoses getting hot. Could've saved mucking about fitting cocks. Dex
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