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I Forge Iron

making punches?


joshua.M

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I have some 3/4" 1018 steel, will that work for making some handled punches? they will be my first handled tools that i forge, i hope later to try my hand at hammers, so will 1018 work for a first set, i will be using them to make better handled tools and top hardies, i have no powre hammer so it will be all done by hand. I hope to later get some good steel to make some hammers with
thanks in advance
Josh

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I think you are fine making tools out of your 1018. It may not be ideal for ability to take abuse and last a long time but since you want to use the tools you make from it to make better tools and you have the material it is perfect. The only downside is for punching you must keep the tool cool. Brian Brazeal has made plenty of tools out of mild steel. A hammer of mild steel is a good thing to have for using with punches because it is soft an kind of sticks to the punch instead of sliding off like a hard hammer will do. Also the mild is easier to work which is nice if you are learning.
Rob

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As rob was saying, you can use it... But the tool would not last long. Mild steel in hot metal when punching docent fare too well I can tell you that, but if all you are doing is making the tool for making another tool and it being a one off you might just get away with it!
You should definatly super quench it... You should also not overheat your tool .

alec

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Fosterob, I think you are confusing me with Mark Aspery. Mark makes various tools with mild steel and then case hardens them, and it is much easier to forge mild steel. I make most of my hand punches out of coil spring. I have made some out of mild steel a few times just to see for myself and show others that "super quench" really does harden mild steel.

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For toolmaking for beginners I suggest getting 2 good coil springs and cutting them as follows: one down two opposing sides and the other down only one side. This will give you a number of equal sized pieces that you can then experiment with and hopefully with the same working and heat treating characteristics. They will make good tools and good beginner blades as well if you go that route. Learning *1* steel well is a better way to go than trying to work a miss-mash of various steels haphazardly.

Start with the shorter pieces as the "uncoiling" is not an issue.

For cutting it can be anything from an abrasive cut off wheel in an angle grinder, O-A cutting torch or even a plasma cutter, (note that removing the heat affected zone, especially from an O-A cut is suggested and hot cutting it off is good practice.) I do not suggest hot cutting the spring into pieces for beginners as wrestling that shape hot and having a long enough cutter to get to the far side is an exercise best left for the older and not so wise smith---"what me have semi-circular burns on my forearms? Ridiculous" said Thomas pulling down his kevlar welding sleeves...

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Fosterob, I think you are confusing me with Mark Aspery. Mark makes various tools with mild steel and then case hardens them, and it is much easier to forge mild steel. I make most of my hand punches out of coil spring. I have made some out of mild steel a few times just to see for myself and show others that "super quench" really does harden mild steel.

Sorry Brian for the confusion but I thought you made some tools of mild to show others that it could be done, I should not have used the word "plenty" - time fades my memory. I was not recommending using mild tools for any length of time but more as a learning tool to learn the process. It tool me a few times to get making tools down and dont want to see him waste good material practicing.
Rob
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