KYBOY Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 Im just curious if anyone has a centaur forge swage block? You know the Yater look-a-likes? Hows it holding up? We have a salt fork craftsman block but we really need a block with "holes"..Just wondering how tough the casting is. We need to be able to forge on it, upset hardys etc..Thanks Quote
s meyer Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 I have the A and B block bought them 2nd hand and have used them pritty hard for a few years with no problems. I was macking knives at the time and wasen't shure haw much I would use them. Now I do a little of everything and couldn't live without them. Quote
Fosterob Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 I have both A&B blocks I got used and they were in almost new shape when I got them and I have not been able to hurt them yet. Rob Quote
SGropp Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 I have a pair I bought new about 18 years ago and they are holding up just fine. Quote
Bob S Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 We need to be able to forge on it, upset hardys etc..Thanks Got any pictures of upsetting hardys? I've always found it easier to draw down rather than upset up if you know what I mean. Or welding a collar on if you're not averse to that route. Or starting out with a jackhammer point that has a collar built in. Bob Quote
KYBOY Posted February 15, 2011 Author Posted February 15, 2011 No, sorry I dont..Mark Aspery has some fine youtube vids though. He makes hardy shanks in a swage block in a couple of the vids. "Upsetting" may not be the best term.I suppose the only real "upsetting" that happens is the collar. I really mean sizing the hardy shank using the swage block hole. Our anvils are london pattern anvils and I dont like taking a sledge to the heel of a london pattern anvil. Its asking for heart break I dont mind welding on a hardy at all..Got several like that..I just make sure its a good clean, penetrating weld. I also bevel the edges of the part to be welded.. Some folks think you can weld a hardy on for the weld touching the anvil, not true at all..Just bevel the edge of the hardy shank and sink the weld into it..The weld will never touch the hardy hole. You can also just grind down the weld as well.. . Id like to add I much prefer a hardy shank the same size from top to bottom and not tapered. Id rather forge the shank down to appx size and then use the swage to refine the shape and collar..I cant stand the way tapered shanks jump around.. Quote
KYBOY Posted February 16, 2011 Author Posted February 16, 2011 We make and use a lot of different hardys. All four of our anvils have different sized hardy holes as well...Not just making hardys, the holes in a swage block are good for other uses too..Different sized drifting holes (which we do a lot of) then you can really sledge on a hardy if its in a swage block. Not so much if its in the heel of a london pattern anvil. Quote
southernforge Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 I have had the blocks for over 19 years and use them regularly with no problem. Quote
Gary Gencarelle Posted May 8, 2011 Posted May 8, 2011 bought a 20 year old one last year works great. Quote
Drewed Posted May 9, 2011 Posted May 9, 2011 living only about 1/2 hour away from centaur forge, Ive been to the shop many a time. They are for the pro farriers and blacksmiths. All of their gear is top notch and will hold up as well or better than anything else out there. All of my hammers, and most of my bought tongs are from there. No, I don't work for them, although I would love the employee discount... And their coal and coke is first rate, with very little clinkers. Quote
David Einhorn Posted May 9, 2011 Posted May 9, 2011 I bought a pair over 20 years ago, use them regularly and they have held up well. They are extremely well designed for general purpose blocks. I have a specialized wheelwright's block that I love, and would someday like to have a specialized block that includes a shove blank. When I purchased them I thought they were official Yater blocks. But when I asked Wally a few months ago about it I sadly found out that was not the case. Sad because I firmly believe in supporting the efforts of those who share knowledge and innovation. In case anyone is interested, Wally (Wallace M. Yater, [email protected]) has started a blacksmith group out in Western Maryland. If I read his April 24, 2011 newsletter correctly he is currently focusing "on finishing the existing 22 by 36 foot shop" and eventually hopes to work towards "developing a more ideal facility on the Mousetown 27 acres. Two single story bank barn foundation sized 40 by 80 foot spaces, one with 7 or 8 forges for a shop and another big open space with a kitchen at one end for meetings, meals and other activities"... including high school "shop class students and Boy Scouts in smithing and related craft activities". I don't know if Wally is interested in producing any more of his famous (and collectable) swage block sets (polished or not), but I wonder if he might be persuaded to produce some as a fundraiser for his facility. In my humble opinion, his polished blocks would feel at home in an art gallery. Quote
clinton Posted May 9, 2011 Posted May 9, 2011 I have a set of the original Yater blocks and they are great indeed. This was a rare find of new old stock Yater blocks, they do not get any better than this Quote
Francis Trez Cole Posted May 14, 2011 Posted May 14, 2011 I have the green and mengel b block from Phie tools it is half the price and it works real good Quote
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