Playinwitmetal Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 I, and a partner are about to start cranking out rapiers. we've got a bunch of 5160 but we are not sure if that it the best steel for the job. Any recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam2519 Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 I, and a partner are about to start cranking out rapiers. we've got a bunch of 5160 but we are not sure if that it the best steel for the job. Any recommendations? For display or for use? For display I guess it don't matter much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 IF this is for use, you are facing a hard time getting your work and blades certified. I know many people hate me when I mention it, but swords are weapons and there are liability issues, not just for the maker but the users and bystanders as well. Most legitimate places are very serious about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Playinwitmetal Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 For display or for use? For display I guess it don't matter much. for use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Nelson Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 what type of use? stage, fencing, or combat? it may make a difference, and adding to that, you probably do not have the heat treating equipment to produce rapiers that would pass for inclusion into fencing associations, those standards can be very strict and often require high levels of control. All in all though, I do not find 5160 to be the best steel for any sword. there are other steels that have better combinations of toughness and edge holding. look through the steels used for industrial saw blades, you will find steels that are more suited to a sword than steels that were designed for springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Ken, what other steels do you prefer? While I like using new Crucible L-6 for thin cross section blades, I normally use 5160H from security steel for most of my mono steel swords, as its basically 1060 with just enough chrome to aid in consistency in hardening, and holds an edge very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 5160 is very common steel in the "using" sword area; often tempered quite soft for steel fighting. As for rapiers any meant for "using" would have to meet the very stringent requirements of the type of fighting group they are made from! Fencing supply companies usually use a maranging steel as it tends to break off square rather than with sharp splinters. BTW have you investigated liability? I hope you are incorporated as an LLC before you go into this business; terrible to lose all you have because a customer was a total idiot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
son_of_bluegrass Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Snip As for rapiers any meant for "using" would have to meet the very stringent requirements of the type of fighting group they are made from! Fencing supply companies usually use a maranging steel as it tends to break off square rather than with sharp splinters. Snip I have read (don't remember right now where) that the idea maraging steel tending to break square is a myth. In the same article it stated that maraging steel has a slower crack propagation and is more resistant to breaking. Because it can flex more times without breaking is why some organizations require fencing blades to be of a maraged steel. But it is still more common in the U.S. to find fencing blades that aren't of a maraged steel due primarily to the cost of such blades. (The last time I priced blades, maraged blades ran about 3-4 time the cost of non-maraged blades). ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Nelson Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Steve, I also like using L6, as it has some of the best qualities for a sword. If I do not want to spend as much time on annealing (as you have to fully anneal L6 or it will chew up your belts and bits) I will turn to 8670, or BE 5634 (a European grade 75n8) Both of which I get from Bestar. The steels listed above are all intended for use in industrial saw blades. All of them have Nickel in the mix from about 1-2.5% All have been designed to take abuse while still being able to cut tough fibrous materials, and hard materials. If all you have is basic heat control, you may want to stick with 5160. If, however, you have the equipment to properly control your annealing, and hardening temperatures and times, you can get more performance out of saw blade steels than spring steels. For example, I sent some pieces of 8670 and 5160 for impact testing, and found that the 8670 could have the same toughness as the 5160 and still be 2-4 points RC higher. In other words, the 8670 could be just as tough and hold an edge a little bit longer. Mind you, on the other end of things, I have also used 1075 and my own shear steel for swords in the past. Both of which have performed well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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