Junksmith Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Last weekend I bought a rivet forge identical to the one pictured (this one is from e-bay. I haven't taken my own pics yet) for $125. It needs minor repair and I think I can handle that. What concerns me is this: I have since heard some folks rail against these forges as practically useless. I know they're not top of the line but I am planning to use it mainly for demos - maybe once a month - so I'm thinking this is a nice portable alternative for light work. Does that sound reasonable? Also, is it worth claying in for such limited usage? Thanks in advance. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Joe, The only problem with the rivet style forges, to me, is the depth of the fire it allows in its natural state. Clay, or even fire brick, built up to create a deeper firepot or "duck's nest" will definitely help you out. I think you'll be fine for light work... 1/4" "S" hooks, blades from files, etc... good and portable for demos. You'll find out soon enough that fire depth and stock / fuel capacity will be an issue if you start trying to work big stuff. Not that it can't be done; just not as efficiently as a full sized forge. Good luck and keep us posted, Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yance Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Joe; Nice little forge. I've been waiting for a callback on one like that myself. The one I built for traveling has the same problem as a regular rivet forge, that is high sides, and no firepot. Main problems are only being able to heat the "point" of a piece unless you bend it to get it into the fire, and keeping your fire "corralled". Hard to work in a little pile of coke, but it's also hard to keep your fire from spreading to the rest of your coal. I got around these problems by using a bearing race, aprox 8" dia, 1 1/2" high over the grate. This allows me a deeper fire because I can continually pull coke up on top, brings the heart of the fire up to the level of the rim of my forge pan, and blocks the fire from creeping out into my reserve fuel supply. The heat transferred also allows the green coal to slowly coke, ready to be broken up and pulled up into the fire. I used the race because that was what I'd found at the scrapyard. You can use a section of heavy wall pipe, an old el cheapo cast iron saucepan with the bottom cut out, etc., just anything to raise the level of your fire to the point that you can work in it about horizontal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junksmith Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Thanks to both of you. Yance, I'm glad to hear the bearing race works for you. I was considering that as well. The original grate burned out and the previous owner replaced it with a flat steel plate with holes in it. I've got a slice of steel pipe that I could tack weld to that plate - or just let it stand free. My only beef with clay is that it covers the blower mounting bolts that may have to be removed for maintenance at some point. My main forge is a car wheel type with a shallow steel ducks nest and I've used it for 3 years now without a problem so that's familiar enough. The lever forge is so much lighter and I won't have to carry a champion 400 blower with it for demos. As I get farther into this, I'm definitely seeing the value of a smaller, lighter traveling outfit setup (smaller anvil & vise). It will be well worth the extra pumping and coal to save my back a little. Thanks again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Joe, I would still put a clay liner in it. The clay will not adhere to the forge like you think...you can actually remove it once it has cured as it will shrink some. If you ever need to remove the blower just lift the liner out and get after it. I have seen these forges with fire brick cut to fit which serves the purpose of the line and gives you some fire depth, slaying two feathered friends with one stone so to speak! Also, with this added depth you most likely will be able to work a little larger stock, I have forged 3/4" stock and forge welded 1/2" stock with mine but I do have some fire depth from my liner. This forge is only for my demos tho. I did have pics of it but since the crash of the gallery I know longer can find them. Make your repairs and enjoy it, it's not a production forge but works great for what you want to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason @ MacTalis Ironworks Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I wouldn't consider these for a working forge in the shop as the pot is small, and you really can't get much done at a time, however, our club WRABA uses them for demos at art shows and the like all the time. They work just fine if you are just puttering about, making noise on your anvil to draw a crowd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Hey Joe, I read about so many people that are just starting out and how happy they are to just get a fire going. Some have nothing more than a hole in the ground with a fire and a blower. For puttering around it should do you great. Good luck. Mark<>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junksmith Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Clay it is then! I'll go look up Frosty's recipe! And thank you Thomas. I should have listened to you the first time but I like to get as many ideas as I can before I start. I didn't realize that the clay would not be permanently stuck to the pan. Firebricks are good too. Lighter. Even with the clay though, it will still be lighter than my main forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Clay it is then! I'll go look up Frosty's recipe! And thank you Thomas. I should have listened to you the first time but I like to get as many ideas as I can before I start. I didn't realize that the clay would not be permanently stuck to the pan. Firebricks are good too. Lighter. Even with the clay though, it will still be lighter than my main forge. "Tis a wise man that gathers information from more than one source!" Surely someone important once said that. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrismetalsmith Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 You can build a big fire in a little forge, and do big work. Just build a a BIG FIRE. My demo forge is 16" round, and I have heated 1" square to a white heat with it. The problem most people have is they don't heap enough extra coal around the fire. I'm talking 5" + high bank on both sides of the fire. The only problem I've had with your style forge is the blower is usually smaller. That will be your biggest hindrance in getting it really hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason @ MacTalis Ironworks Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Didn't mean to imply BTW that it couldn't be used in a shop setting, just that I wouldn't really want to use it as a primary shop forge for any longer than absolutely necessary. They are however excellent portables for demoing at events. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Yeh it's nt really a shop forge. However its a great travel forge. Use a gasser most of the time. Have a blowen rivit forge would love a lever forge for whatever. Enjoy my friend or send it my why. Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweany Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 A couple guys in the saltfork with this type of forge put, short piece of 6"-8" pipe around the fire pot, saves a bit on coal and makes a deeper pot, easy to come up and easy to cahnge out. Were not rivet forges made shallow for a reason? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Joe, I too use a rivet forge for my demo forge. If you play with it and learn how to make a deeper fire, it will do about anything you want to do. And, it is a lot lighter to tote around to demos. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I once had one for demo's. The portability is a real advantage. When you prepare the fire clay liner mix add a little portland cement in with the clay before wetting. Mix as dry as possible tamp in place to form. When drying, it will likely crack, so cut it into two or three sections while wet. If you want, embed a bit of chicken wire for added strength to accommodate moving it around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junksmith Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Well, I used Frosty's forge clay recipe and clayed it in this weekend. I'm pretty sure the mixture was a little too wet but I tamped it down and scored it per his directions so I hope it will be OK. It looked dry the next day but it will be at least a week before I'll even have time to build a fire in it. I'll start with a small fire or two to make sure it's cured and let you guys know what happens. One plus: In trying to get the consistency right I mixed up WAY too much refractory so I went ahead and built another forge! Just a cylinder cut in half longways with a pipe going up the center. Very down & dirty, but it should make about a 12" long fire and be handier for knives. I'll take pics of that one too once I light her up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junksmith Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Here it is! All clayed in and ready to go... I hope. I'll fire it up this weekend and report on shrinkage, cracks, etc. I've also attached a pic of the smaller forge I made with the remaining refractory. Cross your fingers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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