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I Forge Iron

Canedy Otto Blower Restoration


Luke March

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Luke, the noise is kind of a "catch 22" situation. The larger gear on the #3 shaft was originally made out of Phenolic. The phenolic gear silenced the noise. Unfortunately that gear eventually dissolves, thus the gear comes apart. Fortunately you have one that has been replaced with either iron or probably brass. I, on the other hand, can't seem to find a replacement gear for the phenolic since I don't have any specs to give Boston Gear. If you have any suggestions, Im all eyes.
Thanks and good luck,
Greg

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Greg,

Yes, my gear was brass or bronze. It took me a long time to find a replacement for this gear as well - in the end, I don't remember where I ended getting it from, but I dug through my old emails and found the specs/measurements I had decided it was.

  • A DP of 20
  • 45 Teeth
  • A PA of 20 deg.
  • An O.D. of 2.35

It was also 1" wide. The gear I got to replace it was 1" wide as well, but the teeth were only 1/2" wide (see the pictures earlier in the thread). I think I used a 1/2" or 5/8" shaft.

I hope that is helpful for you.
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  • 8 months later...

I was Lead maint man for several years and took some classes on gear boxes.the oil level should be up to the bottem of the shaft,to prevent leaking and for expansion on boxes that turn fast enough to get hot.those also had breather plugs or caps.fill on the high side ,check on the low side

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Greetings,
Does anyone have a photo of an original (or accurate reproduction) of a wood handle for a Canedy-Otto Western Chief Blower that they can post? Thanks!


I will look to see what model mine is, but I suppose posting it anyway ( with model name) cant hurt either
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This is one of my Canedy Otto blowers years ago in the shop right after I set the airgate up and the original power blower (which has been upgraded from this). The crank blower sat in this spot until I got tired of it and I moved it to storage.

The fill level valve (lower right) is opened and oil (your choice, I use 30 wt non detergent )is added on the top until it just drips out the opened valve. Valve is closed. This valve in the picture is not original (as there was none) and I just went to town and found one that would work.

The handle (original ) was gone so I simply drilled a hole on a piece of (likely) broom handle. These blowers are superior in my estimation although I have a few Champions too. I have a littermate to this blower in the trailer shop that has stood years in the rain and sunshine at rondys. The question was asked for a picture of an original handle. This is as close as I can get.

post-25-0-41117300-1343616989_thumb.jpg

post-25-0-93808300-1343617044_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Steve and Ten Hammers for your input. In looking at the photos posted by guys who have restored these the tendency is toward tapered wooden handles (similar to file handles). So I guess my question is were the original handles tapered or straight?
I know this is a trivial matter but when I restore something I like to keep the orginal appearance of the item. I also know that there is no way of knowing whether or not a handle is an original or had been replaced at some point so my question may very well go unanswered.

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