Woodrow Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Thinking of taking this 100lb HB to a machinist to get it flattened on top, then weld a new 1/2"- 3/4" face on it. Any suggestions on what grade of steel for face and will I need to temper it once the new face is welded on? I plan on putting it back in service also, so no wall-hanger with this one. Any suggestions and ideas welcome. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Most of that face is pretty good. There is a set of directions on repairing damage like that with hard face rod. I would use it the way it is but machining off the face is not a good way about repairing it. I am not finding the thread discussing Rob Grunter's method. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 That is not an Hay Budden anvil its a cast iron steel faced anvil. Most likely its a Vulcan brand anvil. It is hardly worth the effort to fix it up as these were low quality anvils to begin with. Also you are going to have a rough time welding tool steel to cast iron. Its not impossible to do but not easy. You will need to harden the face plate before you can temper it. If you are doing it to be able to say you did it more power to you. But if you are doing it because you can't find or afford a real one I would say don't bother wait until you can find a better anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodrow Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Thank you SSS....I was wondering why the ID on this one was so different. Could I at least fill in the gap with 6011 rod and grind it down smoothe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Use it the way it is. That gap will not typically be used for hammering on, and the hardy has face around 3 sides, including extending to the body. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I agree with Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Looks like a Vulcan alright---note the casting porosity peaking out under the horn plate in that picture. Pretty much the lowest tier of "real anvils"; but it will be a quiet anvil and so good for suburbia. Since the body is cast iron this is NOT an anvil for getting all medieval with a large hammer, I've seen several badly broken and was given one pretty much destroyed that I use as an example of what NOT to do with an anvil! What made you think it was an HB? HB's should go for several times what a vulcan in this shape would. And DON'T TAKE ANY MORE OFF THE FACE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Thomas, I'm wondering if the original poster saw what he thought was 'H&B' but is actually 'II&B' (Illinois Iron and Bolt-makers of the Vulcan Anvils). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoer Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Phil - here is a link to the anvil repair article by Robb Gunter. My link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Phil - here is a link to the anvil repair article by Robb Gunter. My link Thank you! He does discuss using nickel on a CI anvil as a bonding layer. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Ritter Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Yes, In re-building an anvil with a cast iron waist a layer of nickle rod is need for the transition between cast iron and steel welding wires. When I re-build anvils I run hard-facing down the side a bit on my anvils also and to coat everything needed with a nickle rod that would be very expensive. Nickle rod, ni rod 99, in my area is $25 per lb last time I needed some and an anvil would require a few lbs of rod. So unless the anvil has sentimental value a different anvil with a steel waist would be a better investment. It would be a good beginner anvil, so if you get a better anvil there won't be as many hammer marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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