CurlyGeorge Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I forgot to add #A42292 (1922). :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I have Rob Gunter's article and that would be the process used IF I did any repair. I am confused by arftist's post - he seems to feel that welding and grinding are not correct. So is there another method of repair/restoration that you would suggest? I thought I was pretty clear, but I will try again, and then I am done. I realize you only paid $100 for your beautiful, above average condition, highly desirable antique Hay Budden anvil, to some the best of the antique london pattern anvils, but here, that anvil is worth $500 as is. If you carefully radius the edges with a disc sander or a flapwheel, and do a REALLY good job, it will be worth even more. If you touch it anywhere with a grinder, it will be worth about what you paid for it. If you weld it sucsessfully, and it is imposible to tell it has been welded, then it's potential value to a collector could be even slightly higher, but it's value as a usable tool will be diminished. Far more anvils have been ruined by well meaning restorers than have been saved by actualy qualified repairers. My point is simple. You have a usable anvil. Anvils should not be welded for cosmetic reasons, only for salvage reasons, because the weld repaired top plate will never be as good as the un-welded top plate no matter what anyone here or anywhere else tells you. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 How much have you used this anvil? My suggestion to you is to use it exactly as it is till you find something that it can`t do for you in it`s present condition.Once that occurs,then and only then,think about doing the absolute least modification to it in order to get it to do what you need. You may never have to even clean it with wire brush if you follow this simple suggestion.Pound some iron on it before you do anything else to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Wrought iron has its peculiarities when it comes to welding it due to the high slag content. It isn't as simple as running a bead. The heat will also soften the top plate in the welded area. My suggestion is to just use it. Dressing the chipped areas will decrease further chipping by removing the stress risers that have been formed. If you want a new looking anvil, you buy a new one. Old anvils have some character built into them, and it looks like you have one that has been around for a long time, and survived to work another day. My Fisher has a blunted horn tip, no biggie since the tip doesn't get any use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I found a couple of references to Sligo in St. Louis: http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/old-sligo-inc-st-louis-mo-hardware-catalog-632 http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/sligo-iron-store-catalog-st-louis-1943-tools I'm thinking that this might be the hardware store that had the anvils made for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I have an HB that spent about 50 years "abandoned" in an unheated shed alongside a creek in OH---lots of condensation! Face has a fine even pitting from that. I'm polishing that face out by pounding hot steel on it---may take a number of years but it's working! Scale is an abrasive compound. First: Do No Harm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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