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I Forge Iron

found a new one

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So I did some trading today and got into this one for a bit under $100 (gas included). As you can see from the pics, it has seen a bit
of abuse but is not too bad. I believe that the wording on the side is as follows: trademark, SLIGO, solid wrought, warranted.
The numbers on the base are 116 - it weighs around 150 lbs. I am wondering if I should do some welding on the bad edges and
tip of the horn or just take a grinder to it and smooth things up. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. If anyone knows anything about
these anvils, please chime in - I've never heard of the brand. Other than the edges and horn, it seems in good shape. I can detect no dip or sway
in the face and there don't seem to be any cracks. It does look like it has a very thick face welded on.














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Looks like a good anvil. I tried to repair one that I used to have by welding along the edges and grinding the edge square. As I used the hammer on the material over the edge, I noticed some of my weld had cracked back lose. I obviously didn't know to preheat it a little first and I won't do it again. I'd just clean it up with a wire wheel, at most, and use as is. My 2 cents. :D

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Well I have to disagree with some of the other posters here as I WOULD use a flap wheel to smooth the radii on many of those corners... at least a little. Had the corners been dressed to smoother radii to begin with most of that chipping might have been prevented. Keep a few areas pretty sharp cornered for times that you might need that and otherwise work the radii to fairly smooth and varied sizes. I'd especially smooth the step corner as I like to use that for a vee tool and a sharp edge is undesirable there. That is still a pretty good looking anvil though IMO... I'd consider it in pretty good shape!

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CurlyGeorge, isn't it a great book? I have bookmarks for the serial number pages in my copy for Hay Budden, Trenton,and Arm and Hammer. Makes for quick referencing instead of leafing through the pages searching for the correct table.

I'm looking forward to the next edition being published.

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Welding an antique plate of tool steel which has been forge welded to wrought iron is NOT a simple process. Doing so out of need, to an otherwise useless anvil is one thing. Taking a chance of ruining a perfectly usable anvil is another.

Yes, the edges should be lightly radiused with a flap wheel or a disc sander. The O.P. mentioned welding or grinding. If one asks such a question they clearly do not have the knowledge needed for such repairs, though they may or may not have the skill.

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I have Rob Gunter's article and that would be the process used IF I did any repair. I am confused by arftist's post - he seems to feel that welding and grinding are not correct. So is there another method of repair/restoration that you would suggest?

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I'm pretty sure that these are the only numbers to be found other than what I already posted.

This one is on the bottom of the left front foot. post-14966-0-16285700-1295222183_thumb.j

This one is under the horn and to the left. post-14966-0-30888700-1295222231_thumb.j

This is on the foot at the front left. post-14966-0-15104500-1295222309_thumb.j

The numbers seem to be A: a mark then 2292
or B: 42292

Sorry about the size of the pictures. I wanted to be sure that numbers were readable.

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OK. According to AIA, the following serial #s go with the following years. #42292 (1899), #A2292 (1918), #A12292 (1919). Mr Postman also says that he had heard of some #s starting with B much later, but was unable to confirm that. Hay-Budden started making anvils in the late 1880s and ceased production in either 1925 or 1926. Hope that helps you. :)

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