shoer Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 So I did some trading today and got into this one for a bit under $100 (gas included). As you can see from the pics, it has seen a bit of abuse but is not too bad. I believe that the wording on the side is as follows: trademark, SLIGO, solid wrought, warranted. The numbers on the base are 116 - it weighs around 150 lbs. I am wondering if I should do some welding on the bad edges and tip of the horn or just take a grinder to it and smooth things up. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. If anyone knows anything about these anvils, please chime in - I've never heard of the brand. Other than the edges and horn, it seems in good shape. I can detect no dip or sway in the face and there don't seem to be any cracks. It does look like it has a very thick face welded on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Looks like a good anvil. I tried to repair one that I used to have by welding along the edges and grinding the edge square. As I used the hammer on the material over the edge, I noticed some of my weld had cracked back lose. I obviously didn't know to preheat it a little first and I won't do it again. I'd just clean it up with a wire wheel, at most, and use as is. My 2 cents. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I like it! You got a good deal. Enjoy it. Mark<>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 USE IT! That is in great shape. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I don't see anything that would warrent either grinding or welding, both of which would diminish the value and utility of your anvil. You got a great deal, use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Nice Hay Budden! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Thanks for that push, Mark. I just got a copy of AIA and went to the Index to find it. Almost forgot I had a copy. Sure 'nough, it's a Hay-Budden!! Nice find. Don't mess with it. Just use it. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoer Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 A question from the ignorant (me) here. As you can see in the pics, it is stamped SLIGO. Wasn't that an actual company or is it a 'model'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 It was probably a hardware store that contracted Hay Budden to make some anvils for them. It was fairly common for the hardware stores in the late 1800's and early 1900's. According to Anvils In America, Sligo was located in St. Louis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoer Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Now I'm even happier with it. :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Can you find a serial# on the base? Anvis in America says that serial#20969 is Circa 1895. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BM454 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 The only hot metal I'd put on it would be from my forge if I were you. Great looking anvil. Nice score. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoer Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 The only things that I have found so far are what shows in the pics. Where should I look on the base and I'll get out the wire wheels (pretty cruddy down there). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Well I have to disagree with some of the other posters here as I WOULD use a flap wheel to smooth the radii on many of those corners... at least a little. Had the corners been dressed to smoother radii to begin with most of that chipping might have been prevented. Keep a few areas pretty sharp cornered for times that you might need that and otherwise work the radii to fairly smooth and varied sizes. I'd especially smooth the step corner as I like to use that for a vee tool and a sharp edge is undesirable there. That is still a pretty good looking anvil though IMO... I'd consider it in pretty good shape! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) In some of the pics in AIA it shows what I think is probably the serial# on the left front of the base, under the horn (Pg 291). I haven't found a list of serial #s yet, like is listed for some of the anvils. I'm still looking, though.. OK. Found it. Edited January 16, 2011 by CurlyGeorge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 CurlyGeorge, isn't it a great book? I have bookmarks for the serial number pages in my copy for Hay Budden, Trenton,and Arm and Hammer. Makes for quick referencing instead of leafing through the pages searching for the correct table. I'm looking forward to the next edition being published. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Yes it is. I just got mine and I'm still trying to find my way around it. I have the serial # pages marked now. LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I'd repair it. Since it's in fairly good shape, it wouldn't take much to bring it back, and the process is simple. Just takes a little time, and you'll be happy with your results. If you want repair suggestions,just ask. Many can help. Nice find! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Welding an antique plate of tool steel which has been forge welded to wrought iron is NOT a simple process. Doing so out of need, to an otherwise useless anvil is one thing. Taking a chance of ruining a perfectly usable anvil is another. Yes, the edges should be lightly radiused with a flap wheel or a disc sander. The O.P. mentioned welding or grinding. If one asks such a question they clearly do not have the knowledge needed for such repairs, though they may or may not have the skill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 If you choose to repair, here is the info you will needhttp://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16052-what-do-you-think-of-this-anvil-repair-approach/page__p__162456__fromsearch__1#entry162456 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Jr Strasil (Irnsrgn) also did a fine Blue Print presentation on anvil repair. When those older ones are finally restored, his is, in deed, a great reference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoer Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 I have Rob Gunter's article and that would be the process used IF I did any repair. I am confused by arftist's post - he seems to feel that welding and grinding are not correct. So is there another method of repair/restoration that you would suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoer Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Got pretty much all of the surface crud off and the only other markings found are a very deeply incised 7, on the left side under the horn and an XI under the base. Will post pics of these later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoer Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 I'm pretty sure that these are the only numbers to be found other than what I already posted. This one is on the bottom of the left front foot. This one is under the horn and to the left. This is on the foot at the front left. The numbers seem to be A: a mark then 2292 or B: 42292 Sorry about the size of the pictures. I wanted to be sure that numbers were readable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 OK. According to AIA, the following serial #s go with the following years. #42292 (1899), #A2292 (1918), #A12292 (1919). Mr Postman also says that he had heard of some #s starting with B much later, but was unable to confirm that. Hay-Budden started making anvils in the late 1880s and ceased production in either 1925 or 1926. Hope that helps you. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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