Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Forge Hood Piping


Recommended Posts

Well,
I've moved into a building. Its concrete walls, dirt floor, big doors for ventilation (barn) basically perfect.
Except I have no way to get the smoke, from my coal forge, out of the building. So lately I just set my forge outside the door and use it like that.
The stainless steel sidedraft hood that I have would be perfect in every aspect but I am allowed in this building only if I'm not going to damage the property. Such as cutting a hole in the ceiling and feeding a pipe through for my hood....
So I am left with a dillema which I am not sure how to fix.
How do I get the smoke out of the building.
There are 2' long by 1 foot high windows ever 10 feet or so along the wall.
I figured if there was a way to get rid of the window and just put my pipe through there I would be set. But that would put an angle in my pipe and everyone I have talked to has told me thats about the worst thing you can do to a coal smoke hood.Another problem is that my side draft hood already has a pipe directly welded to it for keeping the smoke off of the people during demos, and that pip hits just above the top of the window, so Im evidently going to need a new hood...any suggestions??
So if any of you happen to have an idea that could help solve these problems, I would be greatly obliged.
Sorry for the long post...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Varation on what yesteryearforge said.

Why not open the door only 4 feet and use say a piece of plywood to close the gap. Cover the "roof" opening with a triangular piece of material with a hole in it for a chimney. Your enclosed, in the building, and the chimney is in place and on the outside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

H. Hammer: I have two 90 degree bends in my exhaust and it still draws adequately. The pipe goes up about 5', then out 5', and then up another 15' or so. I forget. It does take a bit more to get moving, but once the exhaust starts drawing, it does fine. Use 10" diameter at least.... larger if you can get it. I couldn't bring myself to cut a hole in the standing seam roof I built, and built the chimney from 10" round stainless sections. A straight shot is way better, but you don't HAVE to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heavy Hammer,

You could go with a forced draw system and dump the forge exhaust straight out the window. I'm using an old furnace motor connected to my exhaust hood. The motor sits on a bracket in the window opening and is connected to the hood with standard stove pipe. The furnace unit pulls air from the hood on one side and from the room on the other. The output duct is combined from both sides mixing the two and cooling the forge exhaust. It's very efficient and there is zero smoke in the shop. There's a pic in my user gallery on this site if you're interested. Hope this helps.


Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heavy,
As long as you have an adequately tall chimney, you shouldn't need a blower. Now there are issues to consider such as prevailing wind, local wind patterns, etc. but generally if you run a chimney at least 5 ft about the peak of the roof, that little old 90 degree bend or two wont hurt a thing. If you think about it, most homes with firestoves have a 90 degree bend above the stove, the pipe goes through the wall and then another 90 degree bend where it enters the external chimney or stovepipe and they draw just fine. Just use adequate sized pipe (12 inches plus) and get it up as high as practical.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like I have just about the same kind of set up as you do. The barn I have my shop in is my girlfriend's fathers so I can't cut through anything. I have a rivet forge sitting in about the middle of the 12 foot high rolling doorway, inside the barn about a foot. I took three 4' sections of stainless steel 6" diameter ventilation and riveted them together into a 12' section. I attatched a pulley at the top corner of the doorway and ran a rope through it that ties to a foot long section of wire which is connected to the end of the 12' long chimney. I made a hood that wraps halfway around my forge, out of tin I found in a ditch, and then put a variable-angle L-joint at the top of that. So, all I have to do is pull the chimney apparatus up to the top of the doorway via pulley, and insert the other end into the L-joint at the top of my hood. I haven't had any trouble with ventilation once the heat starts going up the chimney well. I'll take some pictures tomorow in case my explaination is lacking, which it surely is!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...