Michael Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 iForge Step-by-step Blacksmith Projects Demo #166, but moved up to the third on the list is the information about Jim PawPaw Wilson with commenatary. When I burned all the zinc off the plumbing fixtures to build my forge, I half filled the BBQ chimney with the Kingsford Briquets, put the pipe fittings in, filled up the rest of the chimney with the briquets, then stood the chimney in a far corner of the yard on a windy day and lit it. took about half an hour and I kept my eye on it from a distance. I live in a windy stretch off the SF Bay so it wasn't a problem, let everything cool down for a couple of hours and hose off the white oxide and I was done. First Photo is the little gas forge I've been building in welding class. I had such fun with the little firebrick forge (2nd Photo), I wanted something a little bigger, but with the MAPP torch functionality. 6 inch ID pipe, stick welded to 1/8 inch plate in the back (sloppy, but functional). Then cut off the angle iron with a gas hatchet (love that term) and while the OA torch was lit, punched the hole for the MAPP gas head to go in, enlarged with a drill bit in the post drill. the angle iron front foot was MIG welded on, and I hope the placement will hold some firebrick forge doors in place. Now I'm just waiting on the Kaowool to come to line the thing and light it up. Hope is to be able to light the forge after work and get some smithing done before it gets too late to hammer in my residential neighborhood. I'm figuring with one inch insulation I'll have a 4 inch wide chamber, about 10 inches deep. too small for making holdfasts, but fine for hooks and forks and pinch dogs. Still have the brake drum forge for bigger stuff, but it takes a good half hour to get it up lit and up to heat and another half hour to shut er down. Michael-frightening the neighbors since the year Four. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 Michael, Thanks for the linky on PawPaw. Nice looking gas forge you're building in the welding class, that will be nice! That's a cute micro-forge, reminds me of the one I forged my first hook in!:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Thanks Michael: That's the same basic story I read shortly after he died. It's a little different but I wasn't there and will never know what actually happened. :confused: Smithing is inherently dangerous. It requires us to deal with forces sufficient to injure, cripple or kill us as a matter of course. There is NO excuse for taking unnecessary chances. Play hard. Play safe. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevomiller Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Frosty, thank you for posting the info on your T burner. I am going to make one this week, but have a few questions. Can I install a choke on just one side of the T to change the amount of air feeding the flame? Also, have you tried using a cross instead of a T? I am thinking of using a cross, and installing a plug in the top. I would then drill the plug on the lathe so that a 1/8" or 1/4" npt nipple will just slide into it; I would then put set screws in to hold this nipple in place (instead of using lamprod with jam nuts). Do you think that the upper part of the cross might cause too much turbulence, since the top of a T is smooth (not interupted)? I'm not sure if I described this correctly, but I bet you understand what I'm asking. Thanks, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtforge Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 I was also interested in the tee burner. So I started making some to see how they work for me. I used a 1"x3/4"x1" reducing tee(3/4" on the side) to get a lot of air in. Put in a 3/4" short nipple in and chucked it up into the lathe. This was to try to get a true center instead of using the OD of the tee and get a uneven surface. I drilled the tee for 1/8" NPT. Then tapped out a 1/8" x 4" schedule 80 nipple for 1/4 -28 and installed a 14T-35 taped mig contact tip. The gas injector doesn't go in as far as it does on a sidearm burner. I can adjust the insertion point by how much I tap into the tee. Just can't reverse it. I tried the collet method (page 57 of Michael Porters Gas burner book) but not sure if it will be needed. Then put in a 9" 3/4" nipple. I had bought an 18" nipple and cut it in half to get two 9" pieces threaded on one end. I added a Zoeller flare to finish it. Works very well. We fired it up at our hammer-in this weekend and it worked better than the side arm burner I use full time in my forge. I was thinking of making a choke on each side hooked to a single lever for adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevomiller Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Mtnforge, thanks for the update. If I use the cross, I will let you guys know how it works. Also, do you think that there would be any benefit to removing the threads from the air intakes (like porting an engine head)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Alright! I'm glad to see the interest in the "T" jet burner and all the versions being built. I'll try to cover all the questions in one post. You shouldn't need to make the intake ports larger than the tube diameter. In my experience it'll draw plenty of air using a 1" x 1" x 1" or 3/4" version if you shorten the mig tip so it's farther away from the throat. When you shorten the mig tip you want to leave at least 1/2" of the smooth contact portion to act as a nozzle. It stabilizes the propane flow for more efficient induction. A cross should work very well, allowing you to move the mig tip farther from the throat. I haven't tried it myself as I've been spending most of my free time the last couple summers building my shop. Removing the threads on the intake ports can't hurt and might help, you might find it drawing too much air. If so you can use welding tip files (cleaner) to ream the mig tip out to attain in between sizes. Once you have the jet dia and intake ports adjusted for your location, altitude will effect the air fuel ratio and induction so expect to make some adjustments. Anyway, once it's tuned the only time a choke will be a benefit is when you're lighting it. Using 1/8" scd 80 pipe is better for several reasons: First, you won't need an intermediate fitting to make up the mig tip to the pipe. Scd 80 is the right ID to tap for 1/4" x 28. Secondly, you can get away from using NPT altogether and eliminate any wobble. SCD 80 is 1/2" od so just use 1/2" taps and dies, lock nuts, etc. You'll need to leave a little unthreaded on one end to thread 1/8" npt to make up to your gas hose but that's easy enough. The length of the burner tube should be 8-9 x the ID. So, for 3/4" tube it should be 6 3/4" - 7". making them a little longer won't hurt but when you start getting much more than 10 : 1 on the ratio you'll start getting back pressure. If you need to pipe it a distance from the "T" to the outlet in the furnace increase the dia. from 3/4" to 1" after 10" or so and it'll work fine. I think I've covered everything but if not, let me know. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevomiller Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Frosty, thanks for the quick response. I will use your input to move forward with building a 3/4" "cross" burner. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 Steve, Please post pics when you build it, I'm interested to see what you come up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanL Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 Frosty... Thanks, you have been very helpful. DanL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Hey Frosty, Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but It inspered me. I have been working on a "portable mini-forge stand" for taking to family get togethers (lots of nieces and nephews that get interested in banging when I am around) and other little-ish affairs. I was looking for something that didn't require too much special web-ordering of parts. I have copied and pasted all of you various descriptive posts and the few pics onto a word doc (PLEASE) let me know if this bothers you too much. I like to copy/paste/print things out and keep them in my "shop" where I can use them. I will post pics when done. thanks, paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 You're more welcome to them Paul. If I wanted to keep it secret I wouldn't've posted it. I like having drawings, pics, etc. handy in the shop too. I painted my coal forge hood semi-gloss black so I could draw on it like chalkboard. Then I found a bunch of magnetic rubber strips cleaning out a bunch of junk at work and stick all kinds of stuff to the hood with it. One of these days I'm going to find an opaque projector or a cheap Power Point projector for the shop. I would be in HOG HEAVEN if I could project drawings directly onto the work table, floor, etc. Anyway, please use whatever I post and feel free to ask me anything that comes up. If I don't have an answer I'll happily make one up. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Stu - My only concern here, is the galvanized burner pipe. Zinc fumes on the business end! The "T" fitting you could probably get away with (my reil type burners have galvanized bell reducers). That part won't (or shouldn't) get hot enought to burn the zinc. Frosty - Have you ever considered a 4 way or cross fitting instead ot the "T"? Then use a pipe plug drilled out for the gas tube? Just a though I had explored and then dicarded due to additional cost :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 (edited) Whoa am I on the wrong page!! LOL My concerns, I would guess have been addressed. Sorry, I didn't read the whole thread (Sheepish grin ) BTW, Sam, I'm with you, however In my area, black pipe is actually cheaper. No dipping proccess to pay for. Dunno why black pipe would need to be more expensive... Edit note: Sorry to resurect such and old post. I forgot I was looking at a post attached to Glenn's Gas Forge Sticky page. Edited March 31, 2009 by Dodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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