Toreus Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Hello everyone, Quick question: Is there a repository (book or website) that explains in detail how to make tong bits of different shape? I've been trying to get wolfjaw/universal tongs and box tongs from some flat bit tong blanks I made, with no luck. For stuff other than flat tongs, the only method I've seen is Brian's Universal Tongs, which seem quite a ways beyond what I can do atm. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Most sets of directions show making flat jaw tongs, and there is simply not enough meat to make anything else with that little material left in the jaw. If you leave more material to form the jaw you will probably have an easier time about it, as cutting away excess is not a problem. I'll root around my links and see if I can find something. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 There's at least one nice video on YouTube showing now to make a set of bolt tongs. That plus a little imagination (and a little more meat left in the bit end, as Phil suggests) will get you several different styles of tongs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evfreek Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 ... I've been trying to get wolfjaw/universal tongs and box tongs from some flat bit tong blanks I made, with no luck. ... Hi Toreus. I made some comments on this subject in the original post in: The "hybrid method" that I was referring to was employed for making a pair of wolf's jaw tongs. Phil is absolutely correct. Getting the mass at the bit is the tricky part. After that, it's just some routine shaping with a narrow fuller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toreus Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 Thanks for the comments, guys. Phil, thanks for looking at your links evfreak, I'm not sure I really understand your hybrid method- it sounds like a hybrid of twisting stock and upsetting the bit, and that it's aimed at getting a good boss... Am I wayy out in the left field? I think I'm leaving enough material but I was using a small round piece of Stainless rod to get do the indentations. Using a *narrow* fuller to get "notches" sounds like it would work a lot better than trying to get half-round impressions right off the bat. I haven't tried making gooseneck tongs since that's what I have right now, but from what I can see, you just make the shoulder about 4 inches further back than you would otherwise, correct? For the V- bit, do you just flatten it out then bend it lengthwise on a smoothly radiused right angle? Thanks again for the help everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 http://www.metalwebnews.org/ftp/farm-blacksmith.pdf Page 41. It is the same method that Brian Brazeal demonstrated in this thread: Your idea leaving about 4 inches may be appropriate, but working your volume for the jaw you want to make and measuring back the equivalent volume with allowance for scale would give your best estimate. As I said earlier cutting off excess is fine. There are other good references out there, someone else may post something different and helpful. Phil Other useful links this is included in. http://www.metalwebnews.com/ed.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evfreek Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 ... evfreak, I'm not sure I really understand your hybrid method- it sounds like a hybrid of twisting stock and upsetting the bit, and that it's aimed at getting a good boss... Am I wayy out in the left field? ... Hi Toreus. That's correct. Unfortunately, it doesn't work so well, because of the weak (thin) spot at the twist and the tendency to pick up a cold shut. I was thinking that I could improve on Mark Aspery's method . If I were to try it again, I would upset more and push the upset back before notching and doing the twist. At the same time, I would not control the side spread of the bar, since one needs extra thickness at the twist point. As it stands, my wolf-jaw tongs are fine, and I just used them for a successful project recently. My process could use a lot of improvement. If in doubt, just use Mark's process. It is almost guaranteed (unless you try to monkey with it a little bit ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Christman Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Technicus Joe has a video on youtube of how to make bolthead tongs hes a great smith and his tutorials are very informative! Here is the link to the video its in two parts I Hope This Helps!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Technicus Joe has a video on youtube of how to make bolthead tongs hes a great smith and his tutorials are very informative!... I Hope This Helps!! Just my opinion: There may be some useful tips in those videos but in general his forging technique is not something you would want to emulate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Most old bolt tongs were made of flat stock shouldered on edge over the anvil radiused edges, some distance back from the end. The shoulders are on opposite edges, near and far of the anvil edges to define a rivet-hole boss. The near made shoulder demarcates the square-sectioned neck leading to the jaw, a short length on the end being left untouched. The far shoulder demarcates and defines the rein material which is drawn and lap welded to a rod. The neck is bent AWAY from the first shoulder making the shoulder disappear. This begins the somewhat 1/2 round curve it will have. The jaw is shouldered to make it offset so it stands proud, to be carefully hot split and opened to a Vee. A 90º jaw is more versitile than a half-round jaw. When the two pair are riveted, the jaws and reins can be aligned and fit to a specific piece in the vise or on the anvil. Bolt tongs do not need the small diagonal shoulder one sees on flat jawed tongs. That little shoulder provides clearance for the boss, and it is made at the base of the flat jaw. On bolt tongs, there is no jaw clearance needed, because the boss is a distance away from the jaw. "Keep the work of the Masters always before you." Samuel Yellin http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grafvitnir Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 In addition to Mark Aspery's books, and Brian Brazeals videos, maybe this: Making tongs with Bill Epps: Jim Poor's tong making DVD: Harcourt's elementary forge practice has instructions to make a few different tongs; flat and bolt I think. http://www.archive.org/details/elementaryforgep00harc http://www.blksmth.com/tong_article.htm And somewhere in IForgeIron some drawings on the Poz tongs posted by Grant if I'm not mistaken. Hope it helps Rubén Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyfelwr Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 I watched that Jim Poor video, and boy does he know how to make tongs. Pretty ones too! I laughed like crazy when his wife and friend joined in.. They were spot on. Showed my wife that part :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 Grafvitnir sent in the sequential photo article by Nietfeld. I had not seen that before, but that was pretty much what I was attempting to explain verbally in my earlier post about bolt tongs. Yes, flat stock; that is the route to go. Starting with round stock will keep you busier than a three legged cat in a sand box. http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 hope this helps free down load from metalwebnewstongs.doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 hope this helps free down load from metalwebnews That's a page from Blacksmiths Manual Illustrated by Lillico: -->CLICK HERE<-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 Thanks Grant, http://books.google.com/books?id=HvhslCiR-b4C&printsec=frontcover&dq=Blacksmiths+Manual+Illustrated+by+Lillico&source=bl&ots=KbTNeXuruJ&sig=_bH3IG5QLsQPxXE9KhN3oAdpJS4&hl=en&ei=l2LYTO6qOYKKlwfMp4SYCQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CCUQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=Blacksmiths%20Manual%20Illustrated%20by%20Lillico&f=false Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toreus Posted November 8, 2010 Author Share Posted November 8, 2010 Thanks everybody- I think I know what to try now. I'll give it a shot on Thursday, weather permitting. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thingmaker3 Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 Just my opinion: There may be some useful tips in those videos but in general his forging technique is not something you would want to emulate.Especially bad to emulate the lack of eye protection! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chalky Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 Not meaning to be negative but Technicus Joe seemed to be making awful hard work of it. Given decent thickness stock and a good heat, with a hammer that size most guys could make the complete tong jaw in one heat - and fiddle about later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 Seems my link got switched -->CLICK HERE<-- Weird! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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