Newbie here building my forst forge.

[MMOMEQ-55]

Hello to all. I am building my first forge and have several questions.

1. I have a 40lb propane cylinder that I am planning on using for the body of the forge. I plan to cut out one end of it and weld it to an old cast iron table saw top. The end that I cut off I will use fire bricks to seal up all but where I can insert my blades into. I am thinking about forming the bottom up with adobe in a v shape with my black pipe in the bottom of the V. I have a blower from an above stove microwave with twin squirrel cages on it. The fan is also variable speed. I plan to use metal duck work to form a box to attach the fan to and the black pipe for the air intake.

The fire pot will be about 16" long and that will work great on my longer knives. I figured I could use some fire brick to shorting the fire pot when I am forging a short blade. No need to waste charcoal.

The question is am asking is does this configuration sound like it would work?

2. Will regular Kingsford charcoal get hot enough?

3. I have access to coal. Would coal be a better fuel source?

4. Should I cut the tank in half or leave the round top in place to help conserve heat? The tank will be welded on its side with one end cut off.

5. Would it be better to use adobe on the top or just leave the metal bare?

Sorry for all the questions. Like I said I am a newbie to this forum and to forging. 60yo and starting a new hobby. I make knives by the stock removal method and now I want to expand into forging.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Johnny

[Marksnagel]

Hey Johnny,

1. Cutting any tank is extremely dangerous. Any evidence of gas could end your new hobby. For life.

2. Kingsford will get really costly and burn up quickly.

3. I am partial to coal. It's what I use.

4. Someone with tank experience will answer this one.

5. Ditto #4

Good luck with your endeavors. I can't express enough about the possible danger from cutting a propane tank.

Just my thoughts.

Mark<><

ps, go to the chat section and see what they say.

[MMOMEQ-55]

Thanks for the info. Yes a propane tank can be dangerous but this one has been open for a good month now. Once it was empty I just opened the valve and left it that way.

[Lee Waite]

Thanks for the info. Yes a propane tank can be dangerous but this one has been open for a good month now. Once it was empty I just opened the valve and left it that way.

Hi there,
SAFETY First, I believe that propane tanks have a check valve built in!
So you may think it's empty by leaving it open, when in fact there could still be a small amount of gas left inside.
I suggest going to your local steel shop and buying a piece of 18 inch diameter pipe instead.

goatee

[Sweany]

I think you mixing up two styles of forges.

The Lively style http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lively_Forge_Kit.jpg

and a propane forge.

There would be little use in welding the cylinder to a cast iron table, it will probably just crack the table.

Cutting a propane cylinder is a good way to get hurt, not IF but when.

Google Lively forge, her'sa couple links

http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=13992

http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=12211&st=0&start=0

Use real charcoal or make your own google charcoal make

Have fun stay safe.

[MMOMEQ-55]

Thanks for the links. I already cut the bottom of the tank off today. I put a 7.62 thru it first to make certain there was no more propane inside.

[knots]

I like the Idea of finding local blacksmiths. Look at www.abana.org you should be able to access a list of affiliated blacksmith groups. Hopefully there will be one close to your location. If that fails do a web search for blacksmith groups in your state.

If you can find a group to join you will see what others have done and meet some fine folks in the process.

[ThomasPowers]

Charcoal briquettes are mainly *not* charcoal and are engineered to burn slowly. You want real chunk charcoal---there are several brands out there. It will burn much hotter and nicer than briquettes.

There is also the do it your self methods of making your own charcoal or to have a fire nearby and transfer coals into the forge---what I do when I use charcoal. Some people will "make it in the forge" but I like for the smoke and extra heat to be somewhere else!

[MMOMEQ-55]

Thanks for all the great info. I have already spent many hours here and over at anvilfire.com. A lot of great info at both sites.

[bajajoaquin]

Thanks for the links. I already cut the bottom of the tank off today. I put a 7.62 thru it first to make certain there was no more propane inside.

You've all ready gotten the bottom off, so this is more for someone who searches on the topic later....

The problem here is that propane is heavier than air, so just opening the valve may only release the propane that's under pressure. Upside down would be better, but not totally assured. Many guys fill with water to displace gas.

It only needs to go "boom" once to ruin your day.

[son_of_bluegrass]

I don't see a location for you. If you put a city and state (or country as appropriate) may get you some response from someone close by who is willing to help you directly.

As for coal vs charcoal. I like charcoal but am using coal. The local ABANA affiliate occasionally buys a truck-load and sells at cost to members. Coal is dirtier with a lot more smoke and impurities. It is also denser and cokes up (which allows for the building of "caves"). Charcoal gets plenty hot enough for melting steel or welding or anything else, but being less dense it will require feeding the fire more frequently than coal and use less air. Since it needs less air, you'll want to have some way of cutting back the air whether it is a variable speed blower, hand crank or some sort of baffle. It is also easier to blow the hot coals out of the fire if the air blast is too strong, I like side blast partially for that reason. It also likes to be deeper - that means if you'll want a fire 5 to 6 inches minimum depth for welding and 4 to 5 inches minimum for everything else. Charcoal, being cleaner, has less problem with clinker. This is all for hardwood or natural or chunk charcoal.

I'd compare the costs of coal to charcoal (on a per pound basis) to help decide which to use.

ron

[MMOMEQ-55]

I don't see a location for you. If you put a city and state (or country as appropriate) may get you some response from someone close by who is willing to help you directly.

As for coal vs charcoal. I like charcoal but am using coal. The local ABANA affiliate occasionally buys a truck-load and sells at cost to members. Coal is dirtier with a lot more smoke and impurities. It is also denser and cokes up (which allows for the building of "caves"). Charcoal gets plenty hot enough for melting steel or welding or anything else, but being less dense it will require feeding the fire more frequently than coal and use less air. Since it needs less air, you'll want to have some way of cutting back the air whether it is a variable speed blower, hand crank or some sort of baffle. It is also easier to blow the hot coals out of the fire if the air blast is too strong, I like side blast partially for that reason. It also likes to be deeper - that means if you'll want a fire 5 to 6 inches minimum depth for welding and 4 to 5 inches minimum for everything else. Charcoal, being cleaner, has less problem with clinker. This is all for hardwood or natural or chunk charcoal.

I'd compare the costs of coal to charcoal (on a per pound basis) to help decide which to use.

ron

Thanks a lot. Sounds like some good advise.