hildenmw Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 I am going to take the time to make some decent eye punches. What I have now's a bunch of miss matched bunch I have added to as needed over the years. How would you do it? I would like to fine tune the mouth punch. I've woked it to where the troll actually lookk like he may be sticking his tounge out and not trying to swallow a log. Up till now I have made my eye punches from mild steel. 3/8 to 3/4 in round or square stock. I've used various ball bearrings , Struck the hot end with odd shapped punches on the hot end to effect a shape. Heated the punch I working on in the forge and also just heated the ends with a oxy acety torch before working it. I also have some 3/8" (approx) from a old hay rake. How would you heat treat this I am also concidering going to heavier mild still 7/8 or so and taper. and make a couple of each to rotate in and out while I work . In roduction mode I usually work 5 RR spike wizards or horse heads at a time. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Do what we try to avoid the rest of the time - make a rectal aperture on the end. Take a low heat and hammer the end with a light hammer rolling the part with each blow. Get some pretty neat effects that way and it comes out on center. You can then drive something in the end if you want. Or just flatten it into an ovoid if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Use heavier stock for your punches... 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" will work for most of them. The thicker stock is stiffer and gives your hammer a better target, has more mass and momentum... just works better. Use something other than mild steel. I like old pry bars for punch stock. 4140, 1045, S-7, H-13 are good... even rebar stock is better than mild steel. Make them in generous lengths so that your hand won't be crowded and you can rework the ends as they wear without getting them too short (this also gives you better control of the punch angle). Maybe two sets of your most used ones though you can quench them between strikes... just don't let them get too hot before you do it (need to watch that anyway or you'll ruin your tempers). Use better steel instead of going as thick as 7/8", the stronger steel will also be stiffer. If you do as Mark Aspery does and make an oval grip area below the struck end it will help you to control the rotation of the punch... which is nice and you can also index your oval grip to orient the punch by feel. In an old thread here Grant Sarver describes how a friend of his makes an eye punch by cool forging with quick and many strikes so that he gets a pipe and then just refines it with a file. IMO this usually is easier and less frustrating than trying to punch a depression in the tip of a punch. Didn't think I was paying attention didya Grant? OOPs ya beat me Grant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 That "friend" would be Darryl Nelson - the worlds premier master of animal heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 I showed a thread of how to make eye and nose punches on "tools from spring", but nobody asked any questions. I'm going to make somemore soon to take to Tannehill, and I'll post somemore pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 That "friend" would be Darryl Nelson - the worlds premier master of animal heads. Okay, sorry I didn't remember his name... tell him thanks for me and thank you too Grant, for passing on this nice trick! It has worked well for me from the first try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 I showed a thread of how to make eye and nose punches on "tools from spring", but nobody asked any questions. I'm going to make somemore soon to take to Tannehill, and I'll post somemore pictures. Brian I did read this thread... I think it was so clearly illustrated and explained that you answered all the questions before they were asked! I am pretty sure I wasn't the only one paying attention. I don't mind seeing it again though... I mighta forgot something. There be some new ones here that will benefit too. Your generous sharing is ever and always appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Sorry, I can't find it. I can't find anything that I posted prior to Aug. 9, 2009. I think it got lost in the updates. I'll post somemore when I make them in the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Brian, Ask and receive: Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Brian, Ask and receive: Phil Top drawer work and explanations as usual.Thanks for posting that Brian and thanks for finding and linking it Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.