plainoldjason Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Hi all, I needed something to do this weekend, so I built a stand for my anvil. I think the traditional term is "raising" the anvil? ...so I guess I raised an anvil this weekend. I got a lot of my ideas from reading these forums, so thanks everyone! It took two easy days...4 hrs Sat and 6 hrs today. I purchased the steel at the "Bargain Barn" at the local steel yard for $75 and had a good bit left over for future projects. Probably could have got it a lot cheaper if I took my time and searched around longer. Combined, the welds took 17 sticks of E6011 welding rod. The Legs are filled with sand to add more mass and reduce vibrations. I drilled 3/8" holes in the feet to bolt to the floor of my future shop. I also welded a length of tubing between the back legs to allow me to move the whole thing using a dolly. I've primed it and plan on painting it bright red since that's what color paint I had on the shelf already, but I may change my mind...also I may add some loops around the base to hang hammers and tongs from in the future...or I may just make a stand alone tool rack so the hammer loops don't get in the way of forging. Now it's time to decide on a forge design and build that...something for next weekend! Soon it'll be time to pound some metal! What do you think?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Looks good! Might want to put a couple thicknesses of tar paper, asphalt shingles, or a strip of conveyor belt between the base and stand to keep it from sliding and dampen the ring. Caulk works also, but is harder to get off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naz Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Good job on the stand ! Nice shiny anvil on a nice shiny stand. Have fun gettin'it dirty ! I agree with John on putting something between the anvil and the stand. Naz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norseman C.B. Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Good job on the stand ! Nice shiny anvil on a nice shiny stand. Have fun gettin'it dirty ! I agree with John on putting something between the anvil and the stand. Naz. Ditto !!! B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Looks real nice! I like the idea of the bar for a dolly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plainoldjason Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 Thanks for the compliments! I was planning on putting something under the anvil. I have read that lead flashing or sheet lead works good under the anvil to deaden the ring, so I was thinking of trying that....but they didn't have any at Home Depot today so I'll have to keep looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 I personnally would shy away from the lead sheeting... I have a piece of 1/2" plywood under each of my anvils that are on a metal stand. My travel anvil is on an oak stump, looks more "real" at demos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 well done Jason, Looks a pleasure to use! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plainoldjason Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 Thanks again guys. Mr. Dean, if you don't mind me asking: Why would you shy away from the lead sheeting/flashing beneath the anvil? It seems like it would adequately cushion the anvil to help absorb some of the ring and it would add more mass beneath the anvil, which I've read is a good thing...what am I overlooking? The base of my anvil isn't perfectly flat so it rocks a little on two feet...Once I cinch down tight on the chain it doesn't move at all, but you can still see daylight under it. I had actually considered melting the lead (using adequate ventilation and respiratory protection, of course) to the base of the anvil and then using my curve-tooth file to make it sit perfectly flat and level. I'd be interested to see what others on IFI think of this idea... -Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Thanks again guys. Mr. Dean, if you don't mind me asking: Why would you shy away from the lead sheeting/flashing beneath the anvil? It seems like it would adequately cushion the anvil to help absorb some of the ring and it would add more mass beneath the anvil, which I've read is a good thing...what am I overlooking? The base of my anvil isn't perfectly flat so it rocks a little on two feet...Once I cinch down tight on the chain it doesn't move at all, but you can still see daylight under it. I had actually considered melting the lead (using adequate ventilation and respiratory protection, of course) to the base of the anvil and then using my curve-tooth file to make it sit perfectly flat and level. I'd be interested to see what others on IFI think of this idea... -Jason Dadgum Man, "Mr. Dean"?!? makes me sound OLD!! Part of the reason I wouldn't use the lead is the health hazard, although they may be slight the potiential is still there, but the larger reason is you are going to be using the anvil to beat metal. Lead is soft and I think over time it would be beat down under the anvil's weight and use. just my opinion. Like I mentioned, I use 1/2" plywood and have not had any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 my favorite method is to draw the out line of your anvil on the base. Then put a lite coat of vasilene on the bottom of the anvil, then a 1/2 inch bead of silicone rubber on the base following the outline, let it skin over a little then set the anvil carefully on top of the silicone. Let it set up do not remove any that comes up around the out side this will keep the anvil in place and deaden the ring. the vasilene will kee p the anvil from sticking. If you don't plan on removing the anvil skip the vasilene you can still pry it off if you need to. Tom Clark did alot of these. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Yeah, lead sheet bedding of anvils was traditional in some places. So was quenching in concentrated lye solution or liquid mercury, or tempering springs in boiling lead, or annealing in asbestos blankets. We now have OSHA and EPA, love 'em or hate 'em, not going away. The movement of the anvil will generate lead dust. Same with using lead hammers for punches. Enough to breathe? Why take a chance if there are safer alternatives. You don't want to be declared a superfund site, or delay a home sale due to environmental inspections. They keep ratcheting down permissible levels of lead in housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Steel on steel is best, and it is the quietest, and the best backing, and then you should mount it to the Earth, and then you'll have the best backing................................................................................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 I should have mentioned that the anvil should be securely mounted to the steel stand, not just setting on top of it. A little chain probably won't do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Nice job all in all, but I gotta say I really don't like it! A stump works pretty well. I think you got a little carried away with stability! I'd be running into those legs all the time. My most recent idea is to put a socket in the floor with maybe square tube 3-4". I don't know, maybe I got big feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plainoldjason Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Sorry Thomas! Didn't mean to make you feel old man! Just tryin' to be polite...I'm new here and don't want to step on anyone's toes. Thanks to everyone for the great ideas and reasoning behind not using the lead...I like the silicone idea Peacock. Brianbrazealblacksmith, I haven't actually hammered on it yet, but that chain is through-bolted to the base and cinched down very tightly with lock nuts and washers...no matter how I twist and pull the anvil, it feels like a solid mount to the base and both the base and anvil move as one. I don't know if it will tend to loosen with use, but if it does I guess I'll have to go back to the drawing board. Nakedanvil, I hear your concerns about tripping over the legs - that is a concern of mine too. Having never forged anything, I don't know if they'll be a problem or not...I guess time will tell. I have stood near the anvil in several positions that I think I may use when hammering and they don't seem to be a problem. I've searched the web for good designs and the tripod with it's natural stability seemed like the best. A stump is not good for my application; since I'm in the military and I won't have a permanent shop for the foreseeable future I will have to roll this thing in and out of a shed for now...my whole setup is going to have to be somewhat portable. That's another reason I mounted the anvil with the chain and the bolts...I can easily separate the anvil from the stand and load them both in the back of my truck when it's time to move in a year. (But I've filed away your idea about a socket and post for when I do eventually have my dream shop!I think it has merit.) Right now I'm in the process of painting the stand and researching a design for a propane forge to build...hope to be fired up by next weekend or the week after at the latest! Thanks all, -Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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