Richard Furrer Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Hello All, http://www.doorcountyforgeworks.com/Videos.html new nine minute forging video of the nazel breaking down a 4" cube of stainless steel. The loose key is not an issue anymore..added a few shims to tighten it up. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillon Sculpture Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 I wish I had a Benny Hill button on my hammer! Especially if it made the ladies come out and run around the hammer topless! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 I wish I had a Benny Hill button on my hammer! Especially if it made the ladies come out and run around the hammer topless! I wish I had a 265 weight hammer that hit eight times a second once in a while....I'm forty now and I think that the Benny Hill and Al Jolson (dirt from the coal ending up on my face) references are no longer useful for most of the folk that I demo in front of... I thought about having some local ladies climb around the shop and include that as well, but then I remembered I don't know any local ladies....though my 2 year old Son is a "chick magnet"....I'll set him to work for the next one. Have you been able to isolate the vibrations from your hammers? The foundation for mine was separated from the floor with a 1" sheet of foam insulation around the perimeter before I poured...not sure if it did anything useful, but it sure collects scale. The industrial isolator pads are many thousands...more than the hammer cost. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Beautiful all around craftmanship! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 I wish I had a 265 weight hammer that hit eight times a second once in a while....I'm forty now and I think that the Benny Hill and Al Jolson (dirt from the coal ending up on my face) references are no longer useful for most of the folk that I demo in front of... I thought about having some local ladies climb around the shop and include that as well, but then I remembered I don't know any local ladies....though my 2 year old Son is a "chick magnet"....I'll set him to work for the next one. Have you been able to isolate the vibrations from your hammers? The foundation for mine was separated from the floor with a 1" sheet of foam insulation around the perimeter before I poured...not sure if it did anything useful, but it sure collects scale. The industrial isolator pads are many thousands...more than the hammer cost. Ric Wood makes a pretty good isolator.... My 3B is just sitting on the floor on a bed of 4" timbers.... Its not even bolted down.. Im not claiming this is a good practice, however in a rented space it sure beats an expensive foundation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 Wood makes a pretty good isolator.... My 3B is just sitting on the floor on a bed of 4" timbers.... Its not even bolted down.. Im not claiming this is a good practice, however in a rented space it sure beats an expensive foundation. Yes, A "proper foundation" in a rental is like remodeling a rental apartment. I have the anvil on timber (oak) as well as the hammer..1 1/2" oak..like a cushion I figured for the concrete. I did not seal under the anvil and have heard that it should be sealed off to prevent scale and such from working its way under and casuing problems...I have also heard that the scale breaks up and forms a good bed...not sure which is true, but you can see the scale jump on the anvil when the hammer hits. Any thoughts?..should I seal off the anvil with some form of gasket or expandable fire-resistant foam or caulk? Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Nice video, In fact all those video you have are nice to watch, Thank you for posting them Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 Beautiful all around craftmanship! Not sure if you are joking or not HW ... I mean I like forging, but drawing a cube down is not really "crafty"...now if you are referring to the video/editing then thank you..it is not something I like to do nor feel I have any aptitude for. I use a Sony DSC-TX7 camera which has more features than I care to know about and can be completely hidden in my hand like a deck of cards. I am muddling through the IMovie features on my MAC....I never imagined technology would get so...well..techie. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanWillman Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Really good video. Questions: 1. Is the hammer sitting on a pad that is sitting on the floor, or did you dig an opening in the floor and pour the pad into it, such that the pad is sunk below the floor? It seems to my naive mind that pouring the hammer foundation over the top of wood or sand or the like, and maybe surrounding it with some isolating material, might work. Then again, I've run a power hammer for all of 10 minutes. 2. Uh, why forge 4" square stainless down to what looks like a pretty simple bar, rather than just buying a bar that size from the supplier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 Really good video. Questions: 1. Is the hammer sitting on a pad that is sitting on the floor, or did you dig an opening in the floor and pour the pad into it, such that the pad is sunk below the floor? It seems to my naive mind that pouring the hammer foundation over the top of wood or sand or the like, and maybe surrounding it with some isolating material, might work. Then again, I've run a power hammer for all of 10 minutes. 2. Uh, why forge 4" square stainless down to what looks like a pretty simple bar, rather than just buying a bar that size from the supplier? Bryan, Hammer: When the shop footings were dug (below frost line) I had them did the hole for the hammer. I had 6" of concrete poured and leveled and then block put in for the walls to keep back the dirt. When it came time to pour the hammer foundation (i.e. when I bought the hammer and knew its size) I broke out the block and placed 1" of closed cell foam insulation on the outer walls and then a rebar cage and a weighted plywood box for the anvil depression (2'deep,2x4 length and width) and let it cure. I set the anvil on wood base with a forklift into the hole and marked the holes and drilled and epoxied 1" 4140 all thread and locked it down. I had a template for the hole pattern on the hammer and drilled those holes and epoxied those threaded rods in place and then had a larger lift come and set the hammer in place on 1 1/2" oak boards. So the short answer is that the hammer and anvil are sitting one wood which sits on the concrete. The anvil sits in the ground and is separate from the hammer, but there are wood wedges around the anvil as is proper. Stainless: The billet is pattern-welded material which I am sizing down for a client, so in a sense, I am the supplier one would contact to purchase such material. Otherwise...not particular reason for doing so. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 What are the stainless grades you put in that cube Ric ? Will you show us the pattern revealed soon ? Btw, lovely hammer, I'm terribly jealous... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanWillman Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Very Good to Know. re: stainless - Ah! Now it makes perfect sense. re: hammer base - yikes! OK, so a big hammer like that needs a really really really big base to not shake things.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Traylor Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Can you tell us about the forge you are using to get that big block to such a good heat, please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Not sure if you are joking or not HW ... I mean I like forging, but drawing a cube down is not really "crafty"...now if you are referring to the video/editing then thank you..it is not something I like to do nor feel I have any aptitude for. I use a Sony DSC-TX7 camera which has more features than I care to know about and can be completely hidden in my hand like a deck of cards. I am muddling through the IMovie features on my MAC....I never imagined technology would get so...well..techie. Ric No I am not joking! I really like your sword and there is much more than just drawing out a blank. You really do nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 No I am not joking! I really like your sword and there is much more than just drawing out a blank. You really do nice work. Thank you HW. I had a day visit from a smith in Illinois, Robert Rossdeutscher, and we made some blister/shear steel today...I'll paste together a vid of that and as per Sam's request a bit of a shop tour as well...the shop is and will be in transition for some time. I like to say it "has promise", but at this point is not set up to deliver. I always seem to be working toward the "nextest" thing, not the thing I am doing now and as a result many of the tools are in place, but not workable. I find this completely unprofessional and rather inexcusable, but it none the less...is. I fear a shop tour will be a bit like walking into a Jackson Pollock painting....chaotic, but perhaps you can learn from my short comings....so I will do a shop tour as a cautionary tale. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 What are the stainless grades you put in that cube Ric ? Will you show us the pattern revealed soon ? Btw, lovely hammer, I'm terribly jealous... This project was done for another as a special order and I can not share that information. I am sorry. HOWEVER in the past I have used 304 and AEB-L for my own pattern welded stainless knives. Most any stainless grades will work..it really depends upon your end goal/use. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 Can you tell us about the forge you are using to get that big block to such a good heat, please? Forge: A 12" round pipe with 1" of 2300F inswool and then a satanite wash. The blower is 150cfm and run at about half open. I use 5PSI LP which is choked to about 1/3 open..no limiting orifice. The ends of the forge are blocked as needed with firebrick and inswool. CAUTION: the fibers from the blanket refractories can cause silicosis over time and as such should not be used uncoated..especially when there is abrasion which put the fibers into the air you breath. I will soon be buying the "lung safe" variety which can be broken down by the body and poses little health risk. Heat up time from a cold start to billet ready to forge is 50 minutes....18 pounds of steel cube takes a while to get to 2250F and it is poor practice to forge without the center of the billet being hot. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 I don't know what happens but each time I edit a post, there seem to be pollution appearing, like some end of quote, partial color code... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 This project was done for another as a special order and I can not share that information. I am sorry. Don't be sorry, it's not the answer I expected, but that's part of the game it is poor practice to forge without the center of the billet being hot. Sure, it would probably fish-mouth enough to end up like a pipe obstructed in the middle Edit, It worked this time, hurray, I discovered that here you can't play with the code, you MUST keep it complete or the forum tries to complete it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Oops, I foolished once more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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