Alan DuBoff Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Alan, think twice about taking apart an old working blower. I recently read on another site about someone taking apart a working blower and it didn't turn out well. Even if put back together properly , if all bearings and such are not aligned exactly as they were they may not mesh well. These things wear in certain ways and if even slightly rearranged may not run smoothly again. I have a Champ.400 and several others, as long as they are kept swimming in oil (no gaskets, yes they leak) they work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Thomas Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 If the blower is sticking or noisy, feel free to take it apart. I have taken blowers apart several times. There is very little to them. If I remember right on the 400, you have to watch the ball bearings in the handled crank shaft. As I recall, they are held on a race with a beveled retaining nut. Once you back that off, the bearings are free to fall out. That beveled nut can be adjusted inward to tighten the race. Just don't make it too tight. As with all old tools, take them apart a little at a time and make sure you take pictures or notes so you can reassemble them. Very often, the parts wear together and you can't really change them much. For instance, the ball bearings in the handle shaft usually wear a groove in the casting. Even if they are loose and erratic, when you tighten them up, you can force the bearings "off track", which can just make it worse. If that happens, you just tweak things till they perform as good as old! In one blower where they were really bad, I replaced that system with ordinary sealed bearings. You just take measurements of ID and OD and width and order them from any motion supplier. That one was a little stiff to turn afterward, though it was very smooth and quiet. Since I gave it away, I don't know if it ever got easier or not. Also, just taking it apart, cleaning, and reassembling does not mean you have to upset any bearing surfaces. There are no gaskets to destroy, though you can put a thin one between the two halves of the casing if you want. By being attentive and taking your time, you can improve the blower performance, make it run more quietly, and learn a little. A little gear oil every now and then works wonders. I think there is a Champion CD available somewhere of an exploded view of a 400. I don't know where to get it, though. It's just a handled shaft, a few gears, and a fan... not a steam locomotive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 The shaft that the brass gear rides on, is tapered. It will only come out one way. Measure both ends with calipers, the taper is only a few thousandths. If I remember correctly, use a soft punch from the side closest to the brass gear and tap gently. The one I took apart had 1/4" ball bearings, available at a bicycle shop, but if the bearing races are pitted, new bearings will only help moderately. I have a disassembled champion 400 somewhere in my shop. If you get stuck, don't force it. I could take pictures of the parts you have troubles with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 I used to own a 400 and took it apart a few times but that was over 15 years ago. After you open the fan case, a nut is removed that locks the fan in place and then the fan can be spun off the shaft (its hub is threaded). As I recall, the drive shaft for the fan is threaded on both ends. There are bearing caps on the ends with leather washers. Under these caps, there is a spindle nut (castle type? - can't remember...) on each end to generate pre-load on the bearings and if tightened too much, will lock the shaft so they need to be adjusted for free play. Under the nuts is a washer and then the bearings, which are open-cage ball type. The fan shaft is a spiral worm and the brass drive gear runs perpendicular to it. Removing the top of the gear case shows the gear train. I used to run oil in mine and it leaked a bit. I have been told but cannot confirm that they were usually packed with grease. However, I have doubts about this info because my blower housing had an oil fitting on top that appeared to be a factory item. The Champion 400 is the Rolls-Royce of hand blowers and should be preserved if possible. They don't make 'em like dat anymore... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Unfortunately the anvilfire store lists the Champion CD as being out of stock Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 "Also, I had asked what type of oil to use on these blowers but haven't seen anyone respond. Do you use regular old 30wt motor oil?" I use 30wt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Thomas Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 I always used gear oil... whatever weight was handy. It seems to stick better to the gears and not run out of the blower as fast as the motor oils. If you use motor oils, try to use non-detergent oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Alan, I used tractor hydraulic fluid last time I cleaned my hand-cranked blower. Why? because it was on hand and I didn't feel like going to town to get motor oil. Seems to be working well enough -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Gear oil (90/140 wt) gets pretty thick in cold weather and makes the gear train hard to turn. I use ATF and it works fine - as would hydraulic oil - as would 30 wt, etc. You want the bottom shaft running in oil, the other gears will sling it around inside the housing. What type is less important than making sure it simply isn't dry. Some blowers (other than 400 models) have an oil fill plug but less is usually better as almost all of them will leak. I have no idea on the handle or the numbering question. The fan housing is likely the result of whatever molds the foundry had on hand. Some said "No. 400" and some didn't - won't affect how it pushes air. I'm also fairly sure the factory changed handle designs over the years so it might be tough to nail it down for certain. However, it does look period so could be authentic. Hook it up and make a fire... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevomiller Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I have overhauled a smaller champion and a Buffalo 200 without trouble. If things are rusty and gummed up with old oil, soak it in diesel fuel or kerosene for a few weeks. I had to make a new mainshaft for the Buffalo, and rebush the where the shaft ran. Most of these blowers are fairly basic, and should be hard to work on if you are mechanically inclined. I used grease on the bearings and bushings, and light weight motor oil for the gears. Good luck, and have fun! BTW, the 400 is truly a nice blower. It is definitely nicer than the Buffalo 200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Alan, Whatever you do in the interim before you get a forge, hang on to that 400. I sold mine to a co-worker years ago with a really nice forge as he wanted to get started smithing. He never used it and during his divorce a year later, his wife basically gave it away just to spite him. No good deed goes unpunished... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan DuBoff Posted December 3, 2006 Author Share Posted December 3, 2006 no need for input here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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