Tire hammer questions

[wathomas]

New morning fresh start. Drilled 4 holes inline in a short piece of angle, sawed it into 4 shorter pieces, drilled holes near the end of some square tubing had the start of the foot pedal. Another piece of square tube as a cross brace in the front ties them together. The scrap cross brace was a bit "short" grabbed a " thin cut -off slice" of 3" round to bridge the gap...I thought it looked sort of nice as a foot pad sort of complimented the scrap base plate with its holes ... so dug thru a tub of cut offs to find another same diameter and about the same thickness for the opposite side. Used a 1/8" x 1" flat stock as connector rod from the pedal frame to the motor hinge lever. Heated it up gave it a half twist so it could be loosely bolted at both ends (drilled a couple of holes at the top so I had a couple of choices if adjustment was needed...actually had a "short link " with 4 holes that I prepared...then found the original hole gave the pedal about the right travel). Pictures don't really show the spring I am using pulling down on the motor hinge. Right now it is sort of temporary as I have a short line tied to the back splash plate with a lop that the spring is hooked into.



the upper portion of the connector



added a 8-1/2 pound counterweight (settled down the 'rocking' motion) nothing hi tech it was largest piece of steel I could fit in...and is the first piece I have tried...it is a big improvement. [i have read of various counterweights being used weighing from 6 pounds to over 11 pounds so i wasn't sure what to expect ...the 8-1/2 pounds changes the rocking completely )



runs a lot smoother now

[KTB]

Wow, you are looking good and really moving along there. Something you may not know. Most hammers have an height adjustable metal plate pad connected to the motor arm that scrubs against the bottom of the tire to work as a brake when the foot treadle is released. Once you become accustomed to the operation of your machine it is easy to allow it to stop at the top of the up stroke.

[wathomas]

Wow, you are looking good and really moving along there. Something you may not know. Most hammers have an height adjustable metal plate pad connected to the motor arm that scrubs against the bottom of the tire to work as a brake when the foot treadle is released. Once you become accustomed to the operation of your machine it is easy to allow it to stop at the top of the up stroke.

Good tip and you are right I don't recall mention of a brake ...nor did it occur to me when I tacked on a "stop" to control the travel of the lever arm. But it sounds like a good idea.

This evening took a piece of flat stock 1/4" x 3/4 and approx 10" long. Heated red, bent both ends 90 degrees...heated back up...bent a curve "bow". Drilled the folded over tabs for mount bolts. The "arc" and its mount bolts sits on a stack of washers (this is the adjustment feature I chose since I don't ex[ect frequent adjustment to be required). Had a sturdy piece of strap 2 inch wide flat stock that was already formed in a "u"..used that as the base to get welded onto the motor lever arm.





Works just like you said..releasing the pedal stops the tire and with a bit of finesse can stop it in position to hold the die open. When stopped this way (with die open) there is a strong brake that gets tighter if the tire is spun one direction. If the tire is turned by hand the other direction still holds pretty good before letting it starts to slip letting the die close.

[wathomas]

Heated some 5/8" coil spring stock to red heat tonight in the propane forge. The tire hammer performed very well quickly tapering a section to a pointed tang about 3" long. 2 heats was all that was needed...with practice it might be possible in 1.

By hand I would likely have 5 maybe 6 heats using this particular coil spring stock because for whatever reason it is "harder" to forge than same/similar sizes I have used from other JY springs. Either my technique using the power hammer ...or maybe the tongs , wasn't the best....instead of an evenly 4 square cornered tang I got an sort of elongated diamond cross section...but heh I recall similar problems when hand hammering if my tongs aren't tight and let the piece "roll".

Very encouraged by this first real trial.

[Mark Wargo New2bs]

Thanks for the in progress commentary, I really appreciate you and your hammer looks great.

Mark

[KTB]

I agree, your hammer looks great and I am glad your brake worked out. I'm just bit envious that are so far along and I am lagging way behind in my build. I will be finished with all of the sub-assemblies by the end of this week and can get started on actual assembly next week. A camping trip ( not my idea ) took over the weekend and now I am trying get back to the build.

[KTB]

Is your hammer all painted up and looking pretty yet ?

[KTB]

I have never seen a tire hammer except the internet.

Q: found a post on LG spring sizes. Do tire hammer springs usually follow same approXimate size?

REF LG[ 25 # 1.5" ID X 4.5" Long w 6.5 coils of 1/2" cross section ; 50# 1.75" ID X 5.5" to 6.375" Long w 6.75 to 7.25 coils 5/8 cross section)

I have a couple of candidates ...on a tire hammer with approx 40 pound hammer what is more likely to be a good choice?

1.850" ID X 6" Long w 8 coils of .340 cross section wire

or
2.750" ID X 6" Long w 6 coils of .500 cross section wire

I have some die springs but concerned these may be too stiff (but saw a post by "Dodge" that looks like his tire hammer [very nice BTW] is using a die spring)

Thank you for considering...if I had seen some tire hammers in the flesh I might have a better idea about the springs

Check out the tire hammers at www.dogwoodforge.com

[wathomas]

No paint yet...have been using it a bit...these will spoil you for drawing out stock and super easy way to form a "square edge step.

Going to use it a bit before painting (trial the welds etc).

Nice link to site I hadn't visited. Nice loooking tire hammers. Meanwhile I am out of space (don't see myself building a smaller one).

[KTB]

No paint yet...have been using it a bit...these will spoil you for drawing out stock and super easy way to form a "square edge step.

Going to use it a bit before painting (trial the welds etc).

Nice link to site I hadn't visited. Nice loooking tire hammers. Meanwhile I am out of space (don't see myself building a smaller one).

My hammer is finally beginning to look like something. I tacked the upright, anvil, and ram guide in place over the weekend and this week I'll set the tire and axle in place. Then I'll make sure everything is aligned properly prior to finish welding. Maybe another week or two ? I think I have been at it in my spare time for just about 2 months now.

[KTB]

I got my tire hammer running this morning. I still need to take it apart and paint it up nice but it's running really well. Whew...what a project. I think it's taken me about 8 or 9 weeks of spare time.

[Madmike]

Hey, KTB you forgot the link to the trial run video

[KTB]

Yeah...no video. I'm behind in the times. Don't have a video camera. I will post some pictures after it's painted.

[Madmike]

You could probably buy one if you stop smokin' a cigaret every two seconds

[rubencete]

realmente muy interesante,llevo meses buscando y esta imformacion es vital

 

[Wanderlust]

Hey there I was wondering if anyone in the San Antonio Texas are has one of these hammers that they have built I could take a look at or for sale. I own a fabrication shop and would love to talk with other local blacksmiths also who have built a power hammer of any style. you can contact me at www.wanderlustironworks.com .