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I Forge Iron

Finally have a Real Anvil!


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After living for a while with a 55lb HF ASO, I finally got a real anvil!

It was glorious to hit it with a hammer for the first time, to hear an almost musical ring, and feel an amazing rebound (compared to the HF, anyway!)

It is marked:

M & (H)
Armatage
Mouse
(H)ole
1.2.16

From which I infer that it was probably made between 1820 and 1835, and weighs ~184 lb.

I paid $175 for it.

Here's some pics.

th_CIMG2219.jpg th_CIMG2220.jpg th_CIMG2222.jpg th_CIMG2223.jpg th_CIMG2226.jpg

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Note that a bunch of early anvils had a pritchel drilled years after they were made; check for a punching swell under it to see if it's original or a retrofitted pritchel.

My guess looking at it is that it is indeed original and so the anvil dates later than your 1820 - 1835.

But really; your hammer and workpiece can't tell the difference in age on an anvil even if it's century or two off.

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Hmmmm, I hadn't considered the pritchel hole. I got my 1820-1835 estimate by looking here: http://www.abana.org/resources/discus/messages/4/442.html?1254101882
Does anyone know approximately when they started making them with pritchel holes?

I'm definitely looking forward to using this - hopefully tonight. With the bounce on this anvil, I think I'll be able to last a while longer before tiring out!

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Well, I tried it out the other night. I knew it would make my job easier, but I underestimated just how much - it's almost like the hammer was doing all the work, and I just held on to it. :lol:



The one picture with the ASO in the background tells it all doesn't it?


Yes! And what's funny is, the picture makes it look further back than it actually is, because it's so small.

On the pritchel hole - there is no bulge on the underside that I can detect.

Now, there is a chip in the corner of the face, and some dings as well. If I remember right, is the best way to "fix" this to use a high carbon steel rod on a stick welder, and just build it up?
This is mostly a philosophical question right now, since I don't have an arc welder. It's still very usable, but I was wondering, if I wanted to do some bladesmithing (one of my ambitions), wouldn't I need a flat/smooth surface?
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Yes you will need a flat surface for bladesmithing---about 4" sq of it. Rest of the anvil could look like the moon!

Repairing an anvil is not a learning project for welding---end up doing more harm than good.

Wait till the first time you swing and miss the piece and the anvil throws the hammer at your face!

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That looks like a rather nice face, even with the damage. I doubt that you need a cleaner surface for bladesmithing. Remember that you will grind or file the surface before it is done.

There is a very good thread on welding an anvil face, but I would use it the way it is. Welding an anvil is a serious undertaking.

Phil

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  • 1 month later...

Luke above the T in the top line looks like a & that would date 1850 there is a book by Mr postman about mousehole forge I would get a copy. There is alot of information in the book . Ken is great at dating anvils he told me mine was from the late 1850 to 1890 but mine anvil dose not say mousehole on it and does not have a prichel hole that dates prior to the 1800's according to mr postman. I repaired my divit with 7018 welding rods and peening it over afther each pass. did it about 5 years ago has held up great. still smooth. If I can be any help please let me know

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