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Copper air lines


rustyfinn

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Does anyone know what the maximum psi that can be run through flexible copper or rigid copper "plumbing lines"? I want to add a section to my air lines to cool the air to aid in removing water from the air this coming summer.



Maximum pressure rating will depend on the size of pipe/tube and temperature. You will be not exceed max pressure of general purpose copper tubing with a common air compressor. Tubing with different wall thickness and ratings are available, but you will not need heavy wall thickness if you are under 400 psi.
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Thanks for the info. I have a filter/water trap on it now and it works well in the winter. My problem is in the summer when humidity hits 80-90 percent and it's 80 degrees outside. My plasma cutter doesn't like the water.

I have a chemical dryer added at the cutter that turns color when water comes through. I can bake the pellets dry and reuse them but it can get to be pain. I may try to attach lines to refridgeration setup to help cool air and add automatic popoff drain for water, then use filters etc.

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Thanks for the info. I have a filter/water trap on it now and it works well in the winter. My problem is in the summer when humidity hits 80-90 percent and it's 80 degrees outside. My plasma cutter doesn't like the water.

I have a chemical dryer added at the cutter that turns color when water comes through. I can bake the pellets dry and reuse them but it can get to be pain. I may try to attach lines to refridgeration setup to help cool air and add automatic popoff drain for water, then use filters etc.


I have not had to manage moisture in compressed air in a high humidity area as you are in. If I were in your position, I would put in place some sort of aftercooler, or device to cool the air to get the moisture to condense. Then, I would place some sort of mechanical separator such as a centrifugal type coupled with a lower velocity mist separator after to manage and remove entrained particles that make it through the higher velocity. That may remove enough moisture prior to the chemical or desiccant filter it sounds like you are using prior to the cutter.

One other thing, What is the CFM rating on your compressor compared to the air consumption demand? It gets really hard to remove moisture from the air effectively if you are using it at a rate close to what the compressor can put out. Some things that can help are multiple compressors manifolded into the system, and a larger air reservoir to "buffer" the consumption.

Talk to an industrial compressor sales expert in your area, they should be able to help you with some location specific methods that will work for you. They usually will not charge you for a consultation, and they may have some "simple" suggestions.

Just some thoughts from my experiences.
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My current air consumption runs quite close to the needs of the cutter. I do have 2 other compressors that I'm thinking of using. Both are 4 times larger than my existing compressor. Your suggestion of larger storage and compressors sounds good. I'm not familiar with the centrifugal type of separator though. I'll have to research that.

Thanks much for the info Brian.

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............ I'm not familiar with the centrifugal type of separator though. I'll have to research that.



"Centrifugal" may not be the official name of the separator, it may just be called a moisture separator. Basically how it works is to "spin" the air within a bowl. The motion of the air causes the heavier particles of water, oil, and contaminants to collect to the walls and fall out of the air stream. They then can be removed from the bowl via a manual or automatic drain valve. There are different types of these separators, some use the concept of spinning the air, some use the concept of moving the air over a series of baffles to make the air change direction to allow the moisture to fall out of the air.

Read through this, there is some good info here:

http://www.wilkerson...-2_Complete.pdf
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If you have a problem with condensation then it is best to put a water seperator right at your plasma cutter as they do not like any water at all, it doesn't take much at all to affect performance or prevent it from cutting at all.

welder19


Yea, he said earlier that he has one at the cutter, It sounds to me like he needs a bulk separator before the desiccant or chemical type. He is getting a lot more moisture than the filter at the device can handle.

Regards,
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Another trick you might try, if you can, is to run the psi in the tank higher than you need, then regulate the psi coming out of the tank, so that the psi in the hose is less than the psi in the tank. Water vapor precipitates out of air relative to its pressure and temperature. An air drier (refrigerated unit)--good idea BTW-- dries the high psi air by cooling it below its dew point--at that psi. a lower psi would lower the dew point temp. If you had your compressor on a tank large enough for the high psi air to cool below its dew point and precipitate some of the moisture it held out of it, then lowered the psi as it entered the hose, the relative dew point temp. would be lower still in the hose and no water should precipitate out while in the hose.

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One thing that is a good idea it to also put an automatic drain on the tank. I used to go out on bulk trash pick up day and could manage to find a couple of home style compressor units that had rusted out tanks but the motor and compressor in excellent condition all because the tank was never drained of condensate. An acquaintance of mine lost his large vertical tank to rust because he was always "to busy" to take the time to open the pet cock to drain it. He could have saved all that trouble with an inexpensive automatic drain. I used to specify this neat little self contained unit that you just plugged into an outlet and you walked away from it, had it's own little pressure sensor and relief valve so that every time the compressor stopped it would open and bleed some air and blow any water out, wish I could remember the manufacturer's name.

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One thing that is a good idea it to also put an automatic drain on the tank. I used to go out on bulk trash pick up day and could manage to find a couple of home style compressor units that had rusted out tanks but the motor and compressor in excellent condition all because the tank was never drained of condensate. An acquaintance of mine lost his large vertical tank to rust because he was always "to busy" to take the time to open the pet cock to drain it. He could have saved all that trouble with an inexpensive automatic drain. I used to specify this neat little self contained unit that you just plugged into an outlet and you walked away from it, had it's own little pressure sensor and relief valve so that every time the compressor stopped it would open and bleed some air and blow any water out, wish I could remember the manufacturer's name.

Or maybe just a tiny orifice for now in sub-freezing temps, that way it'll bleed as it thaws.
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