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I Forge Iron

Whats your favorite tomahawk steel?


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Im really refering to mono-steel in this question. Ive done the wrap and weld,railroad spikes and ball peen hammers. Im thinking of trying some 1" square stock and was thinking about something along the lines of 4140 ? What would be your choice?

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i usually use hot rolled mild and add a steel insert of carbon steel (leaf spring olds file ect..) it is easyer to forge isnt as likely to burn when welding and is closer to how the old ones were produced . I will sometimes use wrought iron and (rarely) a med carbon steel (1050, 1060) usually only for a hammer poll type hawk.the inportant thing is to get a good weld at the start of the eye on bolth top and bottom of the hawk . then open up and insert steel . good luck

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This year at SOFA I watched Ryan Johnson make several hawks
First was a pipe hawk out of 1 X 1 1/2 mild steel with a carbon insert forge welded in. This had a drilled then drifted eye.
2nd style was wrap around welded from horse shoe rasp
3rd was 2 pieces 3/8 X 1 mild steel. He forged shoulders and thinned were the eye would go on each piece then forge welded them together. May or may not have put in a carbon insert. He was making a indian trade spike hawk. Said the traders did not put carbon steel in these hawks to save money.

Also wathed Pat McCarty make a very nice hawk from a RR spike. This hawk had a very large beard. He upset the spike end and drew the beard out of the large upset. then split and drifted the eye. He did not add a carbon insert.

It would depend on what you plan to use the hawk for. If you want it sharp carbon would be the way to go. If just for throwing mild stee should work good als

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Thanks guys. Im thinking of going with 1 1/4" or so mild steel square with a welded insert. Split then drifted. I like a high carbon bit anyway.
Im sick of drifting ball peen hammers :rolleyes: You beat and beat yourself to death and wear out your drifts in the process. I even made a smaller drift to get them opened about half way but its still hard on the main drift. Those hammers are just so dang tough :o
I made a nice slitter just the width of my hawk drift and when its used running the drift thru is easy. I think I may go this way ;)

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  • 10 months later...

Thanks guys. Im thinking of going with 1 1/4" or so mild steel square with a welded insert. Split then drifted. I like a high carbon bit anyway.

Im sick of drifting ball peen hammers :rolleyes: You beat and beat yourself to death and wear out your drifts in the process. I even made a smaller drift to get them opened about half way but its still hard on the main drift. Those hammers are just so dang tough :o

I made a nice slitter just the width of my hawk drift and when its used running the drift thru is easy. I think I may go this way ;)


The fellow who makes the "Eagle's Talon" which is used by our soliders in Afghanistan and Iraq for a variety of very hard tasks speaks very highly of 4140 on his web site. He has less success with 1095. Of course his axes also include the handle. They are forged, not just stock removal.
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