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I Forge Iron

Tent for foging?


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I'm set up with a coal forge in the back yard which works fine when the weather is cooperating but the weather's turning cold. That got me to thinking about the tents I've seen blacksmiths using at hammer ins. Most of them were set up to serve as a wind break and a rain cover which I think would work pretty well but I'd like some input from folks who've used them in the winter.

Thanks!

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I have never worked in a tent so this is more FYI than advice. If I remember correctly, Jack Andrew, Author of the New Edge of the Anvil, works in a Tipi. I don't remember where he is/was located but it might be worth seeing if you can track the book down for advice about it. Don't you get a lot of snow in Loveland? I am curious on what you find so thanks for asking.

Brian

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I've only just moved out of a tent,after many years,and temperatures down to -65F.That is,a standard,white canvas(11oz)wall-tent,12by14 nominal.These come with either a 3' or 4' side-walls,so a frame,and one run of plywood around the base is in order.
It worked very well,the light inside is perfect.
Don't forget to sweep the snow off the roof before starting work,so that the canvas stays dry,though some icing will sublimate anyhoo.
I had an upright drum with a 14"chimney coming out of that to vent the coal forge.
Worked corker,best of luck.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AKblacksmiths/photos/album/776510940/pic/386359672/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

Edited by jake pogrebinsky
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Brian, We do get a lot of snow in Loveland but I figured the heat of the forge in a smallish space would make it more comfortable.

Jake, Thanks for the information - good to know it's doable. MUCH less expensive than building a garage, plus it's portable for the summer hammer ins.

Thanks for the replies!

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NO! Or as I tell folks "If I can stand with my cojones less than a foot from the fire in the summer with no problem---why would you assume my feet 2' away will stay warm in the winter?

ALso remember you need ventilation which in the winter will be cold air. Buttoning things up to stay warmer = increasing your CO inhalation.

Edited by ThomasPowers
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I spent a year under a pop up carport, and will be back in one soon. What I did was position my anvil and vice near the end of the carport, and had wheels on my forge. So I would roll it out and forge in the open, then roll it back in when I was done. Didn't work in the rain I guess, but as long as it wasn't snowy or rainy it worked fine.

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I've just set up shop with a baker tent. The total price of the tent (flame resistant canvas and the extra awning wall) came to about $700, with free poles made from some saplings in the back yard.

Overall the tent works really well as a smithy. I had no problem figuring out which way the wind blows 90% of the time, and I set it up so the forge is near the front corner of the awning, in the open air region of the tent but still a great spot to get the smoke blown away. Sometimes during startup, with the heavier smoke and ash, things will get cloudy inside the tent, but it clears up within a couple of minutes and gives me a chance to go around back to clean off any foliage that may have fallen on the back of the tent.

In addition to that, the awning of the baker droops a bit in the middle. For the time being, I've been propping an 8' 2x4 into the middle of the awning to lift it up, but eventually I think I'll put in a secondary ridge board for a permanent fix. It could just be the way I set it up.

Anyway, I haven't worked in a constructed smithy before, but the tent works really well for me. The baker I chose is basically 11' wide by 18' long, so there's more than enough room for my 4' forge bench, double sink quench, anvil, 8' workbench, and stock pile. As far as winter heat goes, I've been out there in 40

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Thomas, I kind of see your point but teepees were heated with a central fire, camp tents regularly have wood burning stove. Granted my feet aren't likely to get much heat but some would certainly get trapped by having a roof. Plus cold air would give more draft drawing the smoke and accompanying CO2 out the stack.

Nakedanvil, I'll have to check those out since they sound like just the ticket.

Thanks everybody for the replies.

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I ran a full time smithing business outdoors under a canvas awning for at least 10 years. It was strung off the front of my shop building and was open on three sides.

It was great, lots of ventilation, good light and no walls to run into with long pieces of stock. Sometimes the wind would really blow the snow in, but I love the feeling of standing in the snow while forging on a dark winters afternoon.

When it came time to move a bigger power hammer in, I just undid a couple of guylines and pulled the awning aside so the crane could drop the hammer straight on to the foundation.

I've since replaced the canvas roof with a heavy timber framed structure. It is still open on 2 1/2 sides so it has the same open airy feel. The solid structure gave me a place to hang some real lights and mount a swinging jib crane.

I did build a solid fence and gate for privacy and security in the driveway in front of the shop. This had the unanticipated benefit of stopping the flow of cold air draining down the driveway during really cold winter days.

Here in the pacific NW we don't get weather as cold as in Colorado but there are spells every winter where it gets snowy and cold for weeks at a time. It always seems that on the coldest days I am doing layout on a large slab of frozen steel or maintenance work on some very cold machine.

The only time i regret not having a heated space is when I am in the patina or finishing phase of a project.

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