Hello,

I am wondering what kind of clear coat everyone uses to finish their work?

I need to finish two sets of outdoor front-stair railings... want to use a clear coat, to keep the raw iron color. They'll get plenty of use, and see plenty of inclement weather. I would like to use something that will last at least a few years before it needs another maintenance coat.

In the past I have read that some professionals prefer brushing on a clean eurethane? I think I would prefer not to use a wax mixture, because in the past I haven't had much luck with that lasting long-term (maybe you know something I don't?)

thanks in advance.

also very sad/mad to read that frosty got sucker punched by a birch tree. here's to him getting back on his feet quickly. I don't know him from a hole in the wall, but he seems like a salt of the earth kind of guy.

I use Sherwin-Williams OPEX metal laquer. I guarantee the finish for 3 years. It's semi-arid around here, I think that's why I'm having good luck with it. I doubt it would last very long in a wet climate.

Hi I use automotive paints for outdoor stuff,I'm 4kms from the coast works for me

I use Rust Oleum Crystal Clear, dries quick and no discoloration. Walmart has it.

Clear engine enamel from Napa autoparts.

I've had good luck with krylon glossy clear enamel in a spray can.

Ok this is what I ended up with. "Glisten PC" made by POR-15. It is a two-part clear coat. You have to mix a hardener with the actual clear coat. I assume it is epoxy based, or some such. The stuff is great!!

It is among the "pricey" clear coats, but it is not as pricey as some of the other stuff I saw suggested on the metal art forums when i was doing my search. $58.00 for a one-quart kit, which easily handled two coats on all four of the railings for my project.

You can brush the stuff on rather than spray, which is suggested (or required) on a lot of the automotive clears, catalyzed urethanes, etc. It's like painting with an epoxy, not like paint, but it flows well and it does not get brush strokes, period. easy to get runs, though. You can put this over a painted surface, or over crystal smooth chrome, and it will stick just fine. With 3 coats, this stuff is fine for salt-water marine use. (exactly what I needed, with this project being in the center of snow-and-rock-salt Boston and 1 mile from the Atlantic Ocean). The company says when the stuff cures, you can hit it with a hammer and it won't crack.

I'm completely sold. I'll be using this stuff for everything (well... everything that is a job for hire. too expensive to use on small personal projects!) Works on all metals, ferrous and non ferrous.

There aren't many POR-15 distributors around, but a phone call to them will find you the nearest one (instead of waiting to order online). I happened to have one 20 mins from my house.

GLISTEN PC-POR-15 Inc.

Edited November 4, 200916 yr by MarkC

Thanks for the update!

Those turned out really nice.

How did you join the up-rights (the 7 vertical pieces) to the upper and lower rail?

Good work,

Don

thanks, don. I am ashamed to say the balusters are welded in. I had a few different ideas to join the balusters, one was mortise and tennon, one was to punch and drift the subrail and pass the balusters through and then terminate them in vines on the other side... ultimately the job was for a good friend and I had to resist spending more of his money on my time. my compromise between budget and form, and to still come out with something I would be proud to put my name on, I welded the balusters in, and then ground and filed and feathered each weld, so the balusters smoothly drop down from the subrails, like a funnel.

thanks, don. I am ashamed to say the balusters are welded in.

Why be ashamed?!? Everyone does it...smiths are practical folk.

I'm surprised no one suggested Tremclad Clearcoat. Any opinions on this product?