Ed Steinkirchner Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 i saw in a post a while ago about scraping blade fullers to clean them up anyone know what these things look like? are they like a normal sen or more like a chisel? any info would be helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 The search on top of the page works good..... scraping a fuller = http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f14/ugly-but-functional-fuller-scraper-easy-make-12417/ - -JK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 see, i tried using one like that and it worked well but it hasn't worked in the larger radiusses...radii?....umm.diameters. over 1/2 in and it doesn't cut as well. on the ones i made the cutting end is like a 35 degree angle on a half round bar. would it help to cut it more like a gouge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 What are you using for a tool material? How are you heat treating it? - What material are you using it on? There is a lot of information that needs clarifiing before one can derive at an answer for you. The knife/sword guys I'm sure will chime in soon. - JK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 scrapers are 1085. shaped, hardened in oil, and tempered to very light yellow. blades are fully annealed, but i must add that i have tested on mild steel mostly and have only used it on one blade. i always descale before scraping or filing. i know that this steel is good, because my sen is made from it also. i use the sen on straight blades and i like how well it works. the bevels on the sen are both 35 degrees. i know from using the sen that it doesn't seem to cut until all of the high spots are cut down, but mu fuller scrapers don't seem to do more than some dust, and that was after 15 min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Hard to beat carbon steel for taking and holding a keen edge. High-speed steel and carbide will never get as keen an edge. Use those only if you are scraping really fast! Difficulty with wide tool: We run into the same thing in machining with a form tool. Best way to go is alternating with two tools of slightly different radius or one radius and one shallow "V". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I did see a fullering scraper made from an indexible lathe bit screwed to a mildsteel guide bar and drawn across the blade like a spokeshave/drawknife. I've been mening a to make one for ages, but still just use a bent file left dead hard (never tried a fuller wider than about 6mm though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin (the professor) Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 That type of scraper works for me, but it works best with really narrow grooves with steep, v-like or u-like bottoms. I left the bit almost fully hardened. There is a youtube video with Alan Longmire showing how to make a Sam Bell type Dirk. In the first of the series, he has a simillar scraper but he put the guide finger on the scraper tool rather than clamping a piece on you work for a guide like I do. scraping is not the easiest, but I broke my flexible shaft machine. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 i have made a prototype fuller scraper it works like an old molding plane. but it was made so i could take the halves apart and adjust the angle of the blade. the scraper blade is made form an ols file that was just ground to an angle(don't know what angle, but it's one of them). but the angle that it's at works and i don't need to adjust it at all. OH, and the wedge is part of an old hammer handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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