Upgrade to ALO (anvil Like object)

[Dano50]

Gentlemen (and any ladies present):

Sort of proud of myself. I am just on the verge of starting to bang some metal.

I have a chunk of steel (3X3 by about 12 inches long) for an anvil like object with the 3x3 end used for striking, a 12 inch chunk of light "I" beam (guess is about 3 to 4 inch surface), along with a chunk of light rail I found long ago. In addition, I virtually completed my brake drum forge (looking for clay or dirt to line the bottom and a hair dryer for a blower).

Just need to attach the ALO to a chunk of log at the proper height and get some charcoal or corn feed to burn. Eventually, I may try pouring cement into a box to act as an anvil stand and attach the anvil(s) at the proper height(s)(being 5'6", this should not be too difficult)

It has been suggested I find square tubing with a 1 inch inside diameter to weld onto the side of the 3X3 steel chunk to act as a hardie hole. Alternatively, I was considering cutting a 1 inch hole in the "I" beam to act as a hardie hole along with drilling a 3/8 and 1/2 hole along one side (pritchels(?)). The "I" beam is fairly light weight and offers little real mass (probably 15-20 lbs), but affords a larger surface area. Some thoughts, suggestions, which would be preferred for a beginner?

Finally, I may use a grinder on the light rail, rounding some of the surface to act as a horn for making bends. Eventually, one or both the rail and "I" beam will be attached to the anvil stand at the same height as the steel bar, ideally, large bolts buried head first in the cement so that I could change the rail for the I beam by loosening nuts holding the base down. Still thinking this through since if I weld a hardie hole and pritchel plate to the steel bar I could avoid using the "I" beam altogether, hmmm.

Thanks to you all for just being there for those of us wanting to learn the art of "old ways."

[Mike Ameling]

I would be a little less concerned about making some version of a horn on your "anvils". With a little practice, you can do the same bends using a small BICK, bending forks, or just over the edge of your anvil. Personally I seldom use the horn on my anvil. It is nice to have, but I just tend to use other things instead.

A hardy hole. Most any hardy can also be used in your vice. Just clamp it in tight. Of make a modified base for a hardy - in the form of a U shaped plate that sets down over your "anvil". Make sure that it is of thick enough stock, and that the side parts stick down far enough to support any twisting. You could also weld on a couple thick chunks of iron onto that plate to form a "hole" to slip your hardy into.

Just some options to get around drilling/grinding/filing/swaging out a square hardy hole in thick steel.

If you look around at a scrap yard or farm implement store for a tractor drawbar, you will be surprised at how well it can work as a small/light anvil. And they already have several round holes through them.

Just some thoughts to ponder.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands

[Mike Ameling]

I would be a little less concerned about making some version of a horn on your "anvils". With a little practice, you can do the same bends using a small BICK, bending forks, or just over the edge of your anvil. Personally I seldom use the horn on my anvil. It is nice to have, but I just tend to use other things instead.

A hardy hole. Most any hardy can also be used in your vice. Just clamp it in tight. Of make a modified base for a hardy - in the form of a U shaped plate that sets down over your "anvil". Make sure that it is of thick enough stock, and that the side parts stick down far enough to support any twisting. You could also weld on a couple thick chunks of iron onto that plate to form a deep enough "hole" to slip your hardy into.

Just some options to get around drilling/grinding/filing/swaging out a square hardy hole in thick steel.

If you look around at a scrap yard or farm implement store for a tractor drawbar, you will be surprised at how well it can work as a small/light anvil. And they already have several round holes through them. And a bulldozer drawbar is even bigger/thicker!

Just some thoughts to ponder.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands

[Frosty]

Mounting your ALO on end will result in better performance as there will be more metal under the hammer. A bucket of cement will put it close to or at a proper working height.

"I" beam has limited use for forging on other than to mount things to, stand it on edge though or it'll be too flexy to work well.

A 1" impact socket welded to the side of your anvil makes a fine hardy hole. But what I prefer is welding it to something else that will make an independant stand. It's generally a LOT handier to have the hardy tools somewhere else than the anvil.

The rail will make a dandy large radius fuller as is and you can sharpen a spot on the web to use as a hot cut hardy without needing to put it in a hole.

Instead of a horn, keep your eyes open for round stock or tapered rounds like king pins. There are lots of things laying about roadsides and in scrap yards that make DANDY horn-shaped objects, and swages, and ther various shaping shapes.

You probably don't need to clay your brake drum unless you picked one that's too large like a semi-drum. They're generally well able to take the heat as is.

Frosty

[Dano50]

Frosty/Mike:

Thanks for the input. The ALO is mounted upright (3x3 end, the mass is under this surface), sounds like that will work.

I'll forget about the "I" beam...seemed awful hard to make work. The 1 inch impact socket seems like a good idea, I'll look for one. I still have about 3 feet or so of light rail left after cutting off a foot. Maybe I can set that on end for additional mass for a separate "hardytool" stand.

Question, can you describe grinding a hot cut portion on the "Web" of the track? Since I envision the 1 foot track laying lengthwise next to the anvil, do you mean to grind a portion of the rail where the car wheel contacted the rail, or, along one edge (the area between the bottom flat and the rail contact area) to make a hot cutting (hardy) tool area?

Just for completion purposes, the brake drum is an 11 inch one from (I suppose) a standard truck, the depth of the bowl appears to be about 3 inches. If this is adequate, maybe I don't need any more modifications.

Thanks for both of your knowledge.

[Rob Browne]

The web of the track is the bit it sits on when used as track (the thinner bit). When its standing on end just sharpen one of the webs and you have a hot cut BUT I would be very careful doing that as its like having a hot cut permanently mounted and if you are banging on another part of the rail take great care of your fingers!

[Dragons lair]

Amen, If it will cut hot iron with 4 hits it will cut you deep with one if not off.
Ken