Dano50

Frosty/Mike: Thanks for the input. The ALO is mounted upright (3x3 end, the mass is under this surface), sounds like that will work. I'll forget about the "I" beam...seemed awful hard to make work. The 1 inch impact socket seems like a good idea, I'll look for one. I still have about 3 feet or so of light rail left after cutting off a foot. Maybe I can set that on end for additional mass for a separate "hardytool" stand. Question, can you describe grinding a hot cut portion on the "Web" of the track? Since I envision the 1 foot track laying lengthwise next to the anvil, do you mean to grind a portion of the rail where the car wheel contacted the rail, or, along one edge (the area between the bottom flat and the rail contact area) to make a hot cutting (hardy) tool area? Just for completion purposes, the brake drum is an 11 inch one from (I suppose) a standard truck, the depth of the bowl appears to be about 3 inches. If this is adequate, maybe I don't need any more modifications. Thanks for both of your knowledge.

Gentlemen (and any ladies present): Sort of proud of myself. I am just on the verge of starting to bang some metal. I have a chunk of steel (3X3 by about 12 inches long) for an anvil like object with the 3x3 end used for striking, a 12 inch chunk of light "I" beam (guess is about 3 to 4 inch surface), along with a chunk of light rail I found long ago. In addition, I virtually completed my brake drum forge (looking for clay or dirt to line the bottom and a hair dryer for a blower). Just need to attach the ALO to a chunk of log at the proper height and get some charcoal or corn feed to burn. Eventually, I may try pouring cement into a box to act as an anvil stand and attach the anvil(s) at the proper height(s)(being 5'6", this should not be too difficult) It has been suggested I find square tubing with a 1 inch inside diameter to weld onto the side of the 3X3 steel chunk to act as a hardie hole. Alternatively, I was considering cutting a 1 inch hole in the "I" beam to act as a hardie hole along with drilling a 3/8 and 1/2 hole along one side (pritchels(?)). The "I" beam is fairly light weight and offers little real mass (probably 15-20 lbs), but affords a larger surface area. Some thoughts, suggestions, which would be preferred for a beginner? Finally, I may use a grinder on the light rail, rounding some of the surface to act as a horn for making bends. Eventually, one or both the rail and "I" beam will be attached to the anvil stand at the same height as the steel bar, ideally, large bolts buried head first in the cement so that I could change the rail for the I beam by loosening nuts holding the base down. Still thinking this through since if I weld a hardie hole and pritchel plate to the steel bar I could avoid using the "I" beam altogether, hmmm. Thanks to you all for just being there for those of us wanting to learn the art of "old ways."

Found some information form an older thread. Thanks for any input, anyway. (Isn't search functions great).

Here's a question from a complete beginner. I built a brake drum forge (11 inch diameter pot, 4 inches deep) over the weekend, had the pot for about a year, just got the black iron 2 inch pipe sections. Wife gave me an old hairblower to use as an air source. I diligently took the thing apart and cut off the heating element...guess what, not working, go figure. How does one modify a hair blower to use in a brake drum forge? Do you remove the heating element or just leave as is until it melts? Your thoughts, your thoughts and suggestions! Possibly looking at other sources for air (vacuum cleaners, other blower sources), this one just seemed so convenient with minimum set up. (i.e, I've looked through a couple other threads regarding blowers, squirrel cage type, waterheater, leaf blowers, etc). Thanks

Unicorn: Will do. Looking foward to a little fun. I will ask a question on the forge in the other section...I.E., any suggestions on eliminating the heating element in a hair dryer to get a blower. Thanks for the input.

Frosty; Glad I de-lurked, once again. I think the last post I had was when I was actually 50. Now, as far as a project...hmmm...right now I need to find a cheap hair dryer; over the weekend I destroyed the one I had. Seems since I tried to cut out the heating element, the blower wouldn't work...go figure. Wife won't even let me glance at her good one. Right now i just want to get some material really, really hot and smash the snot out of it to see how it reacts. Eventually I may want to try my hand at a wrought iron "look" fence for the side of the house (maybe a 10 foot expanse), some gardening tools out of auto truck springs, a cutting implement for the tules by the river, and, of course, annoy my neighbor with the clear ringing of hammer on metal (not really, neighbor is pretty cool). The end "products", to me, are seemingly less important than the interest in the process, heating, striking and hardening with all the scientific discovery that may entail.

Been lurking around for quite some time trying to learn as much as I can. By profession, I am a CPA specializing in Taxation (corporate, succession planning and such). Grew up the son of a telephone repairman and eldest of six. Put my self through college and grad school working at various professions (warehouseman, drywaller, etc). Over the past couple years I have wanted to learn a "trade," one that appeals to my artistic and frugal nature...creating things out of virtually nothing. I am starting to get excited since some of this is starting to come together. So far I have gathered several components, all beginner and all thanks to you all's information: my "anvil" is a 3 1/2 square by 12 inch long piece of steel I had angle iron attached by a friend to act as legs to hold the 3 1/2 square end up for striking; this weekend I am building my truck brake drum forge. I have a 3 foot section of light rail which I may try and turn into another striking surface. I may have to rely on your suggestion as to how to shape. A couple hammers (small ball peen and 2 lb sledge), some left over iron/steel from a tractor shop and I may be able to play. I will continue to read as much as I can and I thank you all for your knowledge and input.

Gentlemen: Thanks for the sources...looks like there are as many ideas as there are smiths. Since I have the 3x3 bar stock which should give me initial mass under the striking area, I'll play with the design somewhat to see if I would like a bit of a horn on the side. Maybe carve a horn and attach it directly to a RR end piece as is shown rather than using the RR center riser on the track.

Okay, total beginner, but, I've been reading everything I can over the past several months. One intriguing design for a "striking surface" was suggested using a 3 x 3 or 4 x 4 by 10 or 12 inch long piece of bar stock. I found a piece of 3 x 3 stock at a local scavage yard and had a piece torched off (measures just over 13 inches). Found some 3 inch angle iron (unfortunately, probably only 1/4 or 3/8 inches thick) to use as a support around the base. My plan is to cut this down to a height of (say) 12 inches long. Would 10 inches be better or is 12 adequate? In addition, I have a four foot piece (eyeball guess) of light RR rail (light being a relative term) that measures about 3 1/2 inches deep and 3 inches wide at the base. My idea is to cut a short piece of rail (3 inches, 6 or whatever is suggested) and weld this piece cross wise to a length of the rail, ultimately welding this combination along the flat RR base to the 3 inch square bar stock forming a type of beak which I can grind to shape. My thought is that the top of the "coss" rail would be even with the 3 by 3 surface of the bar stock. Questions for you all: How long would you suggest I cut the light RR rail for the cross piece? Too long would seem to create too much stress at the attachment point since the base would be attached only to the 3 1/2 cross section (the RR length adding mass under teh "beak"). 6 inches would seem about right, but, is that too long in your estimation? For a beginner, should the overall height of the 3 inch bar stock be 10 or 12 inches? Does this design (which is purely in my head) make sense? Am I in the correct area of this forum for this question? Thanks so much for your help Dan

Greetings to you all. I've been spending some time over the past several months reading all I can on the art of blacksmithing. In that time I have looked through the ABANA site plus several others and found this one to look at discussions regarding the hobbyist. Extemely interesting. Currently I am convincing myself to obtain some 4X4 bar stock to create my first, relatively inexpensive anvil along with a home-made forge created from a brake drum. I am looking forward to gleaning as much information as I can. Currently living in Southern Oregon (Klamath Falls). I did talk to one of the few local 'smiths here (shop in a small community off HWY 140) who graciously told me I could visit when (and if) I find the time. This is such a far cry from what I do for a living (CPA specializing in taxation), I am a little nervous about it all. By way of history I am the son of a CWA (communication worker) union member and shop steward, I worked my way through school doing various jobs (nights store manager, drywaller, construction, etc), and I am no stranger to hard physical labor. So, hello to you all, I am looking forward to trying my hand at this for fun and recreation. Thank you all for an informative and interesting site. Dan