ok so since my first pair of tongs broke i decided i had to make a second pair. these are ok, ut im dissapointed with the pin i made... it's too thin and i messed up the peening on the other side... during this i deffinently figgured out a better way im going to try next time.

A couple of suggestons for your next pair. Start with a little heavier stock and draw the reins down. This will allow you to have a wider hinge area. Work on keeping that hinge area as wide as possible.

Because you are using light stock for the tongs and you are working by hand try making your bits shorter. Bolt style tongs are more versatile but straight v or round tongs are easier to make and give you a stronger grip because you have more leverage, you can spend the time you spent drawing the bits out drawing the reins out. You can make bolt style tongs as you need them as you get more experience

Don't be afraid to drill the holes for your rivet, punching the hole in the right spot with no striker or power or treadle hammer can be tricky. Wrecking the tongs after all the that work can be very discouraging.

When making a different style of tongs I often draw them full size on a steel bench or even the floor with a piece of soapstone so that I know what each piece looks like before I start forging, and I can compare the pieces to the drawing as I forge them

As a last step hold a piece of the stock you want to hold in the tongs and do any final adjusting.

Edited August 16, 200916 yr by JNewman

Looks good Junker, for a second pair, and that's some good advice John has given. I'm still trying to make decent tongs. You can buy the rivets on line at different blacksmith online stores. Just type in tools for blacksmithing and one of them should come up, I deal with a company just outside of Asheville,NC.. they are well known and dependable

To keep the hing as large as possible, I'll usually drill a small pilot hole and then drift it to the right size.

thats a good idea... ill try that next time... also next time after i draw out the front (i like to use round stock for tongs) im going to hinge it while they're still straight and then bend the curved part around a piece of pipe so that they are even.

Junker, that's not bad at all, for only your second pair. I do agree with starting with a little heavier stock and drawing out the reins, though.

I think you should shape them before putting together. Easier to get them the same if you can lay one on the other, then just put a loose pin or bolt in to check them.

You might try the "Poz" method. Shown to us by Richard Pozniak

poz tong.pdf

Grant, do you know how much it costs for a norwegian to get a hair cut?

Thanks Grant.

Edited October 5, 200916 yr by CurlyGeorge
Brain Fart!!!

Junker I use 1/4"x3/4"x18" stock david robertson has a class on you tube it is real good the best advice was to make both halves at the same time so you can match them up all the way through the process. That was very helpfull to me.

One thing I learned early on was to start with stock double length and cut them apart in the middle later on. So instead of starting with, say, 8 inches, I start with 16. This allows them to be made without the use of tongs. First thing I do is draw out the reins - one on each end. Now I can cut the bar apart in the middle and then work on the rest.

One thing I learned early on was to start with stock double length and cut them apart in the middle later on.

That works well if you are working on more than one pair of tongs or if you have a speedy induction heater . When working with one pair and coal fire I rather have two pieces so that I can work the other part while the other is in fire and vice versa.

Many aren't worried about "fast". The main advantage is being able to make them without using tongs. Even when I'm using two pieces I like to do the reins first, then I don't need tongs when I'm forging the working end.