billp Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 How do you weld sheet metal, what type rods, etc. etc. I have a project to do but don't know how to attach sheet metal out side of pop rivets and screws. Any advice will help Thanks BP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 I msue a mig with .023 wire and less voltage Oxy accetlyne would also work if ou have a torch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnptc Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 what type of metal ??? how thick ?? generally a small torch tig or mig will all work. for aluminum special flux is required for torch welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billp Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 I'm using 24G sheet metal and I only have a small torch that uses a mix of oxygen and mis gas (I think that's right) in the small 1.4 bottles. I tried a flux coated bronze brazing rod after quite a number of tries to get the torch flame right. It seem to work OK but I do need more practice at how to heat and move the rod. As far as welding equipment I only have a small 160 amp arc welder and have never used gas except to cut and that was a long time ago. Not counting propane to solder water pipes. I don't know how to mig or tig weld nor excess to equipment. Even though I have been told mig is easier then arc it is on my list when times and money get better to get a small mig welder. So at this time a small torch out fit is all I can afford but something I can play with to get some basics down I hope. I'm in the process of building or trying to build a side draft hood for my forge looking to see what is the best way for me at putting it together. So far till I get better equipment and or skill I may end up using steel pop rivets. Even though welding does look better may just have to do the best I can with what I have. Again any advice will be helpful if not now later on as good advice always comes in handy. Thanks again BP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnptc Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 will your torch melt the sheet metal.......... if so you could probably weld with it rather than braze. nothing wrong with brazing......the metal needs to be red hot to melt the brazing rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 I've worked with that style of torch. I think Johnptc has it right go for brazing. You may want to get some brazing flux if you haven't done much brazing. It does protect the metal until you get to it. Just a thought from a self taught. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billp Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 Thanks Guys I ended up using steel pop rivets to put the hood together but have been playing with going back over some of the seams if for no other reason but for practice. The torch does get the metal red but it's like on a fine line when I do. When it does get red I have to act quick or things go to heck fast. I'm using a flux coated rod but will try the brazing flux as I really don't want to mess up what I have already done. Thanks again everyone for you help. BP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramps Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Hi, I'm new here, but I think I can help. Many years ago my brother told me to back up thin sheet metal with copper. One day at the junk man I spotted a piece of copper bus bar, it's about 3" wide and 3/8" think, so I bought it. Put the copper behind the sheet metal and it will absorb a lot of heat so you don't blow through, and the weld won't stick to the copper. I usually use a mig welder because it's a lot easier than stick on thin material and produces less heat then gas welding. The hardest part is probably finding the copper in the first place. Give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Now that you have it riveted, You might try solder for practice, then brazing. Be careful about worpage. Copper backing is a good idea to help avoid worpage. Sheet metal moves like crazy when it is welded or brazed with gas. Practice on scrap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeatGuy Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 what kind of joint were you tring to weld, butt, lap, or edge?. With a practice and the right tip and settings you could torch weld the sheets together. brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Indeed good question on the joint. Butt joints (tight) can be welded nicely with a torch and no rod( well, the stop might get a smidge and then start with a smidge and run the fillet no rod). I have a Dillon ( Henrob). A "tee "weld can be done after you do some butt joints. Tee some 3/8 rod on some 14 ga or tee some 14 ga on some 14 ga. you will use a fair bit of rod on this one and be prepared to run down the street with your hair on fire if you are not patient or have the wrong tip/rod size. 24 ga is gonna be tough in this venue even with a little bitty tip. Stitch mig or TIG may be the solution although I have welded them light guage furniture pieces (with the white ultra-light tubing) with the torch quite successfully and they have lasted very nicely with a good bead on tee joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnpeter Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 use a thin 6013 on low amperage if you are using a stick welder. do small spots at a time, and let the panels cool so you dont get any distortion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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