Hello to all. I am looking for suggestions for fly prees tooling for pipe to look like tree branches. I have a idea but why reinvent the wheel if someone has a better one. Thank you for your imput! Harold

What are you trying to do to the pipe? Taper it? Texture it? Bend it? Different tools for different tasks. Specific questions are easier to answer.

The problem with using a fly press to texture pipe is in the nature of the blow. Because a fly press has a lot of inertia it really wants to collapse the pipe which means you kind of need a mandrel inside the pipe to back it up. Not easy for long sections. Ideally this job would be better suited to an air hammer (or mechanical) which can lightly tap tap tap the material. Or you could do it cold in the press with a chisel and have the pipe support itself. Probably quicker to do it by hand at a low heat.

I agree, it's very hard to put any texture on pipe, even a hand chisel will collapse pipe hot. I think the real question is : Why PIPE?? You need to save weight? is it going on an airplane? Pipe is more expensive in the smaller sizes (under 1-1/2".

I would be tempted though, to try it with a vine texture swage (like they sell at some blacksmiths suppliers), it will collapse, but you just keep turning it, heck it's don't need to finish round, does it?

Edited July 22, 200916 yr by nakedanvil

I saw in Mark Aspery's second book-the leafwork one- that he built a tree with textured bark on it done under a fly press. Maybe you can contact and persuade him to show us some new tricks.
Mark Emig

I am trying to texture the pipe. SCH 40 1 1/4 for a hand rail job. I am trying to save weight. I also have a couple of other ideas to try ands use this on once I figure it out. I did get the idea from Mark Aspery new book and did email him but he will be unable to answer till mid Aug. and I need to finish this job by then. Thanks to all that replied Harold.

Again I ask: Why pipe? I know a lot of rail is made of pipe, but that's usually smooth. Any reason it HAS to be pipe? I'd use solid and bang it it out in no time. Once it's bolted down, who cares?

Grant, your right It would be easier to use soild but it is not cost prohibitive for the amount of lineal feet that I have to do. Also use of a pipe notcher on my ironworker makes joining easier. The main reason though,is this is what the designer has spect. I have thought about using the power hammer but I like the idea of the control of the flypress. I am going to try a V block on the bottom and a curved top tool on the outside dia. of the pipe but only one third of the circumference with weld beads on it and I'll see how that works. If it flattens it or bends it it might give it a natural look. Thanks!

The v block on the bottom will cause the pipe to neck in or reduce in diameter. Try it with a curved bottom tool as close to the o.d. of the pipe as possible and long too. The pipe will still get smaller but not as much as with a v block. A freind of mine makes bark by stick welding with 6011.

HWHII,
Some time back I made a 3 spring fullers but before assembling I mig welded rough beads to the inside arches of the half round sections (with the gas turned off to create rough lumpy weld deposits). I assembled the spring fuller and it did an excellent job of texturing (like bark) the 32mm ,25mm and 18mm heavy walled steel pipe (2 metre sections). Constant rotation is required and caution not to over texture it as the pipe can split. The pipe diameter will reduce as can be expected. It made an excellent trunk for a 5.7 metre Monstera Deliciosa sculpture which is now installed on a lift wall in a local old folks home. I'd post a picture except I'm on a mates computer and haven't access to my Pictures. Give it a try - there is very little expence and well worth the effort :-)

Edited July 24, 200916 yr by Chrispy

Chrispy, Thanks I Give it try. If it works for you down under. It should work for me up here.

I would be more inclined to use a power hammer for the texturing especially on pipe. The flypress is too slow and pipe is not going to hold heat very long. When I have done bark texturing I had the best luck with a lot of fast relativly light blows. If you have a hard time getting the light blows with your hammer put a stop block between the dies so that you cannot crush the pipe. My bark dies are a spring tool with a bunch of random depth hot cuts into the dies. I have seen them made with a bunch of hardface beads welded on the dies, and there are also ones for sale at blacksmith depot.

Here's a few shots of some tapered, textured pipe worked under an air hammer. The texture was the last of three heats and the die was a typical wood grain (one sided, not a spring type). The dies on the hammer are flat which added some nice opposing lines when they (the dies) clipped the taper.

Last week I asked for help with a project on putting texture on pipe. I have some pictures. I would like to share. I am not real familier with this site yet. What is the best way to post photos

Once your pics are on your computer where you can find them, start your post and then click "go advanced." It's rather user friendly.

On the new page is a button "manage attachments" click on it.

Click "browse" and find your pics then click upload. If you have more than a few, preview post then repeat.

Phil