lordcaradoc Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 I am just putting a forge together here in Ohio as I don't have access to a forge less than an hour away and have only just made friends with the local group. I have an old rail anvil (well, it was cut out to the shape of an anvil) that I have used for years in my armor/steel box when going to SCA events. It has always been rough and rust pitted, but worked great for rivets and small things around camp. I do not have much of a budget right now to buy even a cheep anvil, but if one shows up, I will work that out. The issue I have now is that after grinding and sanding most of the rust off the face and dressing the horn up, I wanted to see if there was any rebound to speak of and there was none. I even left a couple of shallow dents with my hammer. (really, I didn't hit it hard ) Now, my forge will be very traditional for the time being. I have a fire pit in the back yard and added pipe to allow for air flow. What is the best method of hardening the face of the anvil so it will last me for at least a few months if not longer. Regards, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratel10mm Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 I imagine the more experienced guys will have better ideas, but you could try case hardening. Heat the face up, and cover it in carbon (coal dust, bone meal for e.g.) overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 There are complete instructions for hardening a rail anvil in Alexander Weyger's book, The Complete Modern Blacksmith, and it would be a very good book for you to have and read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Rail should be high enough carbon to harden and temper BUT its a big piece of steel and you will really need a large fire, gear to handle an large hot piece of steel and quenching material in large volumes. I would just use it as is till you can get a "proper" anvil, however you define that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordcaradoc Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 D'oh! I have that. I have been reading a new book I got, Blacksmithing Basics for the Homestead. Not a bad little primer and some good illustrations and step by steps. Regards, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Use Weyger's methods, dig a bigger trench forge out back and use a vacuum cleaner exhaust to blow it. WATCH OUT FOR THE STEAM WHEN YOU QUENCH, get it in the water fast and deep! Case hardening a moderately high carbon steel is wasting more time and money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratel10mm Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Told you someone wold know better! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.