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railroad anvil?


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Okay I Since I am new here I'll say Hello first.

So I am just geting started in blacksmithing and was wondering if a piece of Rail ( as in a train track) would work for an anvil if I DID NOT have any tools to convert it. ( and before any asks, Yes I am getting my rail Legally)
If not are there other cheap ways to get an anvil?

thanks

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Yes you can, I have for twenty years. I have a Peter Wright anvil in the shop, but I've also got a 5 foot piece of track with three legs welded to it, (like a tricycle), The straight leg about 6 or 8 inches back from one end, ( You may want to make a horn, I never did ) the other two like a saw horse at the other end, brace. The long piece comes in handy for straightening stuff. I've also got a 2 foot piece on my truck as I do alot of field work. You'll also want to wrap a chain around track anvils as they really ring and will cause ear damage.

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I would cut some slots in the bottom and bolt it to a stump. You HAVE to have some sort of solid base, because It will rattle your teeth out your head when you hit your RR anvil. I would also save a factory edge on the end, then you have a really nice 90 degree edge. The angle also work for some swage shapes you can use.

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I would say get a couple of bits. Mount one on a stump in the same position it was used by trains and you are away. The other can be mounted on end and you have some really great shapes to work with. Many smiths have a bit of rail they use for odd jobs.

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A few years ago I hand an opportunity to get some railway track, and was told it makes for a great anvil. I dismissed it as a bit of a 'send up'. Boy, am I regretting my ignorance.

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I recently "found" a 27 1/2 inch long rusty chunk of rail road rail in a "deserted" area and it works great!

It works better than the 4 1/2 inch by 6 inch by 6 1/2 inches block of steel I was using.

Now all I need is to get it cut on one end into a pointed "anvil" tip.

A few years ago I got a piece that was almost 7 feet long, but it was way too big to do anything with as I could not cut it down to size!
The thought was to cut it down and sell it off to pay for the cutting, but when I sold my truck, it went with it.

Edited by archangel
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i have a half a dozen small pieces . i use the end , i mean i stand the track on end and use this for peining pins and such. i drive big nails or screws in to the stump the track sits on to hold it

the ball or top of the rail is a pain to hammer on, at least for trying to make a knife.

get yourself a real anvil.

not a chinese POS. anyway luck with your hammer

buzz

oh yeah i ain't been here for awhile, got a new system and a new browser so i'm getting back in touch

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I just finished and got to use my RR anvil for the first time last night--the track itself is actually a support piece that's welded to a 1" X 8" X 8" piece of A36 plate for the bottom, and a 4 1/2"X2 1/2"X10" piece of 4140 (that only took me 3 hours to heat treat using about 8 pounds of charcoal) on the top as an anvil face--the track section is 10 inches long and the whole assembly looks pretty darn good. Very, very quiet operation with a really nice "ding, ding-ding" sound when lightly ringing it. I would have posted pictures, but for some reason my camera's focusing ability has left it taking blurry pictures.

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but for some reason my camera's focusing ability has left it taking blurry pictures.


change you pic settings. I would not really worry about hardening it. Your a begginer like most of us. When you wear out your rail... you will either be done with smithing or you be addicted enough to sell someting dear so get an anvil.

I TRADED A 2000 blaster quad for two anvils. The treasure is in the eye of the beholder.
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I have a piece of RR track and I still use it for heavier work. It is great! I bought it for $17 US at the scrap yard and it weighs 38 pounds. Used it until I could find a good deal on an anvil which took me about a week. I found a NC Big Face anvil, folding stand with a foot clamp, two table top drill presses, a 6 inch grinder with belt/disk sanding attachment, and a NC Momma forge for $150 US. The only bad is that the forge needed a complete rebuild.

15630.attach

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