Rich Hale Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 This knife is a drop point hunter with a blade of 19C27 stainless steel that has been heat treated and cryogenically treated. The Guard and butt cap are 416 stainless, the spacers are black with thin nickel and acrylic. The handle material is a maple burl that has been dyed and stabilized for long life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Rich, that is one very nice skinner. It has everything a beautiful knife needs and none of the excess. I like its clean design and wonderful finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy seale Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 well hale, looks like ya went and did it again....well done jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Sweet Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markb Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Nice, I like the style, reminds me of Rauna, and some others of the early day makers. Classic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quenchcrack Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Very nice, Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc_cooter Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Very nice , Rich. What are the dimensions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamj Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 beautiful i especiall love that handle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcraigl Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Rich, that's a real beauty! On a build like this with stainless guard and blade is the guard silver soldered to the tang? How is the butcap attached? Also, do you glue up the handle assembly first, then drill and fit to the tang, or do you "re-fit" the parts to the tang, then glue up "on" the tang, or off the tang, then final fit? I know, lotsa questions. Really, like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Guard is soft soldered to the blade..the tang is lengthend and threaded on the end, the butt cap is blind threaded. All handle pieces are drilled and slid on one at a time with epoxy, butt cap is tightened down and the next day the handle is finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcraigl Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Cool. For some reason I had it in the back of my head that Stainless didn't like solder. Not the case I suppose. when you say "soft solder" you're talking about the low melting temp silver bearing solder right? I'm going to have to give the threaded tang technique a try. do you loctite the but cap so it don't come loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Cool. For some reason I had it in the back of my head that Stainless didn't like solder. Not the case I suppose. when you say "soft solder" you're talking about the low melting temp silver bearing solder right? I'm going to have to give the threaded tang technique a try. do you loctite the but cap so it don't come loose? We used Hard Silver solder on 316 stainless steel tubing to contain pressure up to 4000 psig. Stainless love silver solder. I've built instrument manifolds and analysis stations using silver solder and stainless tubing form 1/16 tubing stainless up to 1 inch Id vacuum fittings. With the right torch and good solder and careful cleaning silver solder is a real kick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 I use no lead solder that melts at 430f Ace hardware has it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 The Ace hardware solder is also sold for jewelry repair. It is good stuff. I just wanted to bring out that stainless and silver solder were made for each other. I've also used it to repair some no critical some not critical breaks in cast steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Nice, I like the style, reminds me of Rauna, and some others of the early day makers. Classic It seems that master's knives take on a trademark appearance; recognizable at first glance. I can tell a Rich Hale knife usually before I see his name. Having enjoyed his contributions over the years, I am never disappointed with the next. IMHO, Rich Hale knives will always be timeless classics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Not to get O/T, but Charlotte, I've read that stainless needs the right flux for high temp silver solder/brazing. Has that been your experience, and what flux do you use? Very nice knife, Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 The HT silver solder I used was packaged with flux. I purchased at local welding supply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) Not to get O/T, but Charlotte, I've read that stainless needs the right flux for high temp silver solder/brazing. Has that been your experience, and what flux do you use? Very nice knife, Rich. Company policy was to use Eutectic brand products for brazing stainless.Eutectic North America's Web Page As I said, the main point is just that it does work well when doing stainless and that it is a resource for the Blacksmith. P.S. ATM I have the Ace hardware silver in my shop. I don't see why you would need anything different for knives. Doing foods service you have to be cadnimum free. That's a whole other thing. Edited July 1, 2009 by Charlotte P.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 MattBower, Sorry I just realized that I didn't exactly answer your question. My experience is based on using fluxes and materials that were labled for use on stainless steel. I've never tried to use anything but labled products on stainless. I do know that for the solder to flow properly into a joint it must be fluxed poperly. We did have a few joint failures which, when analyzed by home office safety team were assigned to improper joint preparation. (Fortunately it wasn't my personal work involved I only worked on laboratory equipment where I was the user, designer, fabricator, and maintence) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 To go back a few steps..I use a lead free solder that is sold for household plumbing and it melts at 430f. It comes with a flux and I use it to solder the joint between the guard and the stainless blade. The guard is a tight fit and held in place by not only the solder but by the handle material itself being epoxied in place on the other side of the joint. My first expectation of this joint is to block any materials from getting in between the blade and the guard and the second is to make a nice, seamless blending of the blade and the guard. I know there are other materials to use for this but this has worked for me a long time. I do not use it on damascus blades or on blued fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Sorry to hijack, Rich. I know we're talking about two different things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) I did not even think of it as a hijack Matt. Rabbit trails are great ways to learn from each other. I just did not want folks to get lost at an intersection and perhaps use a high temp silver solder and take the temper out of a carbon blade along the way. The high temp I use flows at over 1100f Edited July 1, 2009 by Rich Hale ................................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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