westerwald Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 I just rebuilt my 25 lg and it now runs like clock work. I did measure the dies and found the lower is 2-1/4". I would like to find a used lower drawing die in better shape. The budget was spent on the rebuild. Also I would like to cover the spring only. Have any of you found an alternative to the big ugly cages. I know they work but to me personally they look awful. Thanks for any leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 I have seen tubes of different type wire tied over the springs, heavy cloth, like canvas etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 Fire hose is a good cover for the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 The cages are less than lovely but they provide the best protection. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 Joe: Kerry posted a description and a few pictures of the guard on his LG here. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f57/50-lg-progress-report-11876/ Instead of making new pins or drilling and tapping the old ones I just used long 5/8" bolts with enough lag the cross won't be damaged by threads. The guard will get mounted to the extra length of threads extending past the first nuts. The guard will be held in place with Nylock nuts. I haven't built this guard as yet and I'm not crazy about building one that covers the entire front of the hammer. For myself I've found being able to lay eyes on potential failure points regularly has prevented catastrophic failures. Stripping the old paint off, eyeballing everything then repainting them with fresh hard paint makes a good stress gauge. If the metal moves beyond normal flexion the paint will flake or crack before the part fails. There is NO better reason to paint welds in high stress applications. So, being able to see the potential failure points is more likely to prevent a failure. Of course there are parts it simply doesn't make sense to take any chances with. My question for the group is this. Has anyone here ever had anything but the spring fail? Toggle arms, links, knuckles, cross, etc.? I'm not talking about a hammer that was allowed to wear till it failed, anything will fail if neglected long enough. Heck, spotting worn pins, cotter keys, excess play, etc. is the reason I'd like to keep all this stuff as visible as possible. Anyway, who's had one of these things break or has personal first hand experience of it happening to someone else, as seen the broken part(s), holes in walls, etc. I'm not so interested in hearsay as first hand experiences. Thanks. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerwald Posted May 23, 2009 Author Share Posted May 23, 2009 I too am interested in first hand witnesses of spring and arm failures concerning these style of hammers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakwoodironworks Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 The only problem I've had with the toggle arms on my 50lb. Little Giant was that the toggle arms were striking the guide on the downward stroke. It had worn a 1/4 inch grove in the arm before I noticed it. It was caused because the dies were worn way down from years of use ( that is why you often see notches cut in the guide in an attempt to give more clearance to the toggle arms on the downward stroke ). A new set of dies fixed the problem. I agree with Frosty about the idea of a guard for the spring area. I to like to be able to see what is going on with my hammer and head off potential problems. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) HI GUYS I have been using LGs for close to 20 years. I have rebuilt about 20 some hammers and have seen hammers with serious failures. I have had 2 springs break while running hammers with no bad results. I totaly agree with Frosty and others that I would much rather be able to see the works and mantain it than hide it. I have used hammers with guards and some of the guardes scare me, If they are built close enough to not restrict access to the dies they create shear points. My best advise is if the hammer SOUNDS or ACTS different stop and find out why. Get your hammer in good shap and keep it up. I do think covering the spring with heavy leather is OK. I personally don't think it as likely to hurt you as the things we put between the dies, the dies themselves, tooling etc. I have been hurt by chips of metel from dies and tooling . I prefere to put the guards on myself. Safety glasses, good gloves, long sleeves, leather boots, and hard hats. One last thing do not try to save money on cheap dies and springs. The price of good quality componets wiil not even get you in the door of the ER. Phil Edited May 24, 2009 by peacock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james gonzalez Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 I have seen a guard on a #50 lg that was a half cylinder of looked like 16gua sheet. The half cylinder had an ear coming off it that went up to the ram height adjustment bolt where it was secured. This appeared to be an elegant, simple and unobtrusive safeguard and seemed to work real well. This was on the hammer belonging to Rick Korinek (sp?) of now closed island city forge. I do not run a LG these days and when I did I employed the "life's dangerous" philosophy. I would do things differently now. A sunday afternoon project could mean no spring steel where it doesnt belong. I suppose the only real annoyance with this type guard would be complicating adjustment of ram height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 This is the spring guard I put together. It's tougher than it looks, the screen is from a soil testing machine and is HC steel #1 mesh. Comments? Please point out any flaws, etc. you see I'm not married to this guard. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Frosty it's a nice compact design but from the pics I think it will interfer with the ram at the top of the stroke. If you look at the top of the ram it is relieved to clear the spring as the spring loads up at the top of the stroke. I would turn the crankplate to the top then put a block on the bottom die and pry the ram up and see if you have plenty of clearence between the ram and guard. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 That has crossed my mind. I've done as you suggest but don't know if the ram was as high as it's going to throw in use. I think before I run it with this one I'll make a lightweight mock-up version and check it in action first. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerwald Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Frosty I like that cover! Thats the direction I want to go. Thanks for the photo. -Banjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Make it shorter, not much if any lower than the bottom of the spring or it'll hit the ram in use. I'll be changing this one as soon as I finish with the brake. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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