RcRacer Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I have searched in these forums and found that some have used stove pipe for their forge shells. That usually is 22ga to 24ga metal. I was going to fabricate mine from 14ga sheet metal until I found that I only have some 16ga hot rolled sheet available. I have some 13ga galvanized sheet but we won't go there So my question is based on the assumption that 16ga will be ok for a mailbox shaped design. The concern I have is for the strength of the entry point of the burner. I plan to mount the burner almost horizontal and tangent to the curved roof of the chamber. Do you think I'll need to reinforce that area? What about warpage? Just for some additional info, the forge will be line with 2" of ceramic wool and coated with ITC 100. The floor will be 2" of ceramic wool and a coating of Mizzou castable refractory for durability and flux resistance ( if I try welding ) Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Sounds like you are going in the right direction. I would make a mounting plate/braket for the burners though. Line the entry point with 12 G. or similar tacked on to form a "T". The top of the "T" being the liner and the leg being the forge wall. This configuration helps keep more heat in the forge too. I'm using 12g X 1.25" with about 3/4" outside the forge. Hope this helps:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I agree with Fe-Wood. Zoeller Forge plans, ( Simple Gas Forge Plans ) only uses a 5 gallon metal bucket and those are, what, 20 ga?? For the burner holder, he uses a threaded nipple held in with conduit nuts and rigid conduit reducing washers. Any reinforcement you add at the burner inlet can only help. I'd go as far as to say, if you have extra 16 ga that you are using for the shell, cut some squares maybe twice the wide of your inlet pipe and weld them on the outside and even inside if your still question the integrity. I don't think you need to worry about warping though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat pete Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 i have seen little coffee can forges also....the wool keeps it from affecting the metal.....but if youforge will be round or roundish...my burners are at about ten oclock shooting towards the floor....i also have some ceramic floor and welding chews the crap out of it....then it stays gooey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I used 16 ga on mine and it has lasted for about 15 years through countless heats. The door edges and box edges have warped slightly but the overall integrity of the box is sound. I think you will be in good shape with 16 ga down to 22 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 It'll work fine, the burners don't weigh but a lb or so apiece. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Not sure how 'ga' converts to good ol mm's or inches but mine are from gas cylinders which are about 0.100"thick (2.5mm) I wouldnt like to go to much thinner than that as welding it becomes a problem (if your as cak handed with the stick as me!) and ive noticed mine corrode from the inside out when ive relined them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 ga, or gauge, varies from one material to another, but for steel, 3 gauge is about .23", 10ga. is about .13", 16ga runs just under .06" and 20ga is about .03" Not sure how its graduated or calculated. It just IS :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RcRacer Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 I had a gut feeling that 16ga would be OK but thanks to everybody for the reinforcement ( pun intended ). I would have rather used something heavier so it would be easier to weld but I need the practice anyway I'll post pics as I go along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RcRacer Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 ga, or gauge, varies from one material to another, but for steel, 3 gauge is about .23", 10ga. is about .13", 16ga runs just under .06" and 20ga is about .03" Not sure how its graduated or calculated. It just IS Somebody had too much to drink when they invented that unit of measure. Gauge is not only different for different materials it's different for the same material in different forms. Steel sheet is different than steel rod and wire. Good thing for the internet and cross reference charts :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Steel gauge is derived from the weight of a 4' x 8' sheet of wrought iron. I don't recall the formula but it no longer comes out even as steel weighs about 485/cu' where triple wrought iron weighs 500lb/cu'. Think of it like RR gauge, (width between the rails) which is based on the standard width of a roman military chariot. Which, because all Roman roads were built to support the military, everybody built their carts the same width and so on down through history to the recent present. When the RR was being developed in Europe it was decided to use existing road grades where possible and the best ones were Roman. I think even the Romans based their chariots on earlier ones. Lots of things we do now have their roots in antiquity beyond remembering. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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