electrafied

[sfDuck]

I have just recieved an ellectric rotary impact drill, but the plug end has 2 round pins, not flat. My question is what would happen if I replaced the end with a regular plug. There are next to no markings to give any clues, is it ac, or dc, 220, or 120 volts. If its 220 like I suspect would it just run slower on 120 or would something get harmed. My only clue is if someone recognizes the two pins on the plug.

[Woody]

Duck:

The two round pins suggest that the drill was built for use in a foreign country. Voltage used overseas is different from what is standard in the US. I am not absolutely sure, but I think that running a drill built for 220 volts on 110 would not work or it may do damage to the drill.

Woody

[ThomasPowers]

Universal motors will just run slower on lower voltages; other types of motors tend to burn up.

Of possibly more importance is the Hertz it was built for 50 hertz is standard many places with 220 VAC whereas we use 60 hertz here. Crossing the hertz *is* bad for motors as they are designed to use the current flipping.

Also running it underpowered will tend to burn it out more anyway as you drive it harder to try to get it to act like it "should".

Thomas

[mike-hr]

I occasionally see contractors who change out the female plugs on their extention cords and the male plugs on their power tools to a non-common configuration. It makes their tools more identify-able, and keeps the darned sheetrock crews from unplugging them and stealing their power.

[Mills]

take a look here and see if that helps you any. Seems as if you are describing a cee 7/17 plug, if so it is likely then to be a 50 hz machine and would cook at 60hz
Domestic AC power plugs and sockets - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Walking Dog]

Dear Duck:

Two round pins SUGGESTS European, 220-V, 50-Hz. Most drills use universal motors. This advice is based on these assumptions. More information would lead to better advice. (Universal motors have brushes; does yours?)

For the universal motor, 60-Hz will not hurt, just a slight reduction (possibly) in torque. Using 120 volts instead of 220 will lead to nearly 4:1 reduction in max torque, and reduction in no-load speed, but will not damage the drill. Try it. If it seems to run OK, except with low speed and torque, you could try it on 240 if you are brave.

[wulfgar]

Todays question! I bet you're all looking forward to what it is Ah but if you have read the title I'm quite sure you know. What I am asking today is what are the do's and don'ts of pounding steel at too cold a temperature? First I better start with my problem. I have been trying to draw out an old leaf spring from a truck to make a sword. The way i have been working it (and please correct me if I am going about it the wrong way) is laying it width up and pounding it into a more square shape instead of flat and rectangular (taking it from 2.5" wide to 1" wide). My forge doesn't seem to put out an excessive amount of heat so I've been working the metal at a bright red almost orange color. I put it back in the fire at a dull red. The problem that arose is the metal seperated. Am I pounding it too cold? Can steel be pounded cold and am I just using too much force? Any other criticism or advice is more then appreciated
Thanks in advance to all who respond.