ironstein

Looks like an anvil vise. Hard to tell the box is in the way. If it is an anvil vise, i don't think it will be worth much as a working anvil, those weren't meant for heavy use.

Are there any new updates to this post? Any U.S. distributors?

Hey Stumptown forge, Whats the weight of that beauty? What was the price, shipping etc. I have always liked that design, just curious about What it took to get it. Brian

Rhrocker, not sure if there is a lot of work sharpening jackhammer bits, but i went to the rental yard and they guy said he use to have a guy come around and sharpen all his bits, but he disappeared. Put it this way, if i lived in a place conducive to a powerhammer, i would have one, and i would try drumming up some business sharpening bits. I would hit up All the big brand stores with rental departments, and all the private rental yards. I was given advice by some highly regarded smiths. check out the thread heat treating and forging jackhammer bits in the heat treating section. It just isn't economical for me to do it with my slow press, and i m not fast enough to do it by hand in one heat. I can put that hammer to work for you! To tell you the truth i don't really know how loud powerhammers are, I remember someone saying they get more complaints about their grinder than the powerhammer. The bottom die for the bits is around 20 to 25 degrees, and the top die is flat.

I was busy forging some 2 inch round 4140 into a die for sharpening jackhammer bits. The die came out good, unfortunately i am realizing my press is too slow. I need a powerhammer! I did manage to get a couple bits sharpened in only two heats each with a hardening oil quench. I was shooting for one heat. Trying to be as efficient as Grant is not for the faint hearted!

Really? My neighbors claim they don't hear a thing, but i think they are just being nice. I would hate to get one and have someone complain, it wouldbe tough to look at it sitting there and not use it!

Thanks HW. I would buy one of those hammers if i could keep the noise down. I have great neighbors, but a power hammer would push them over the edge! I know they are converted to air, but the price sure is right. I would like to get some dies made for my press for jackhammer bit forging. I gave those five bits i forged back to the rental yard. They were very happy. I cautioned them that they should test them first since i am no pro. We will see how they work. I heat treated them like Grant suggested, tempered them and made sure to keep the heat in the first inch and a half.

beautiful work. Everything looks nice and symmetrical. Well done!

Good job! You might try peening the petals, it gives that rose petal texture. Great looking rose.

Yes biggun, i did do the work, but i told the guy before he gave them to me that i wasn't sure of the type of steel and that he could test a few out to see how they work. He was informed that the possibility exists that they may break. I'm sure he could still come after me, but i am keeping my side of the street clean.

By the way i would love to see pictures of the die you have made for your hammer. Neil over at NWBA site talked a bit about a hydraulic scissor die that i am interested in seeing, it pinches off the end while forging the chisel.

Thanks guys. This thread and the one on NWBA are full of good info. I have the bits forged and a few finish ground, but my motor went out on my belt grinder. I will finish the five bits i have forged, and give them back to the guy, but i'm not charging him. Seeing that i am not an actual business, i want nothing to do with liability for these bits. Thanks for all the great info. Brian

I was at the rental yard today and got to talking with the owner. I asked what he does with the bits and he said he just throws them away, so i offered to sharpen and harden them, i figured it may be a bit of extra cash for my hobby! Anyone have experience with this process. I have a general idea, i was gonna bring em up to non-magnetic and quench in oil, and temper to straw, or maybe blue? I'm not sure the exact steel type, and neither is the rental yard owner, i am gonna do a few for him so he can see how they work, and he said he will give me a bunch of stuff to work on. This will be good for me to make a little extra cash for tools. Thanks Brian

If you have a swage block or even a suitable piece of steel to make a hardy hole, you can upset the material for the shoulder by yourself. Or just forge a taper like Brian Brazeal makes for his hot cuts.

Looking good. I find that since i don't have any buddies willing to strike for me, i use my 30 ton press to break down tool steel and otherwise difficult pieces. I usually fuller it down close to the size i am looking for, then smooth everything out by hand. I recently got some 316 stainless number 11 rebar, man it is some of the hardest stuff i've worked, without my press i probably wouldn't have bothered with it, even the press was groaning while working that stuff. Looks like you have a good start, now to fuller out the end to flare it for the cutting edge! Brian

Nice looking spurs Mike. I've made a few pair myself, but they didn't look half as good as yours, good job. Brian

Those feathers turned out sweet! Nice job.

Why coat it? From people i have talked to who wear iron jewelry they have no problems. Now an allergy may be a different thing entirely. The natural oils from the body, and the handling of the item should keep the rust away. Just my two cents. I had a similar thread, and some responses indicated that no treatment is necessary.

Jevaccaro, beautiful work! You and Tophand are proffessional spur makers right? I've seen great posts from you at bitsandspurs forum. I'm sure everyone on this site would love to see a tutorial on how spurs are made, i know i would. Thanks for posting. Brian

very nice. Lucky neighbor!

Brian, great work as usual. Do you find that the skewer wants to twist on you as your drawing out and tapering? I have been doing most of my drawing out on the bick of my anvil with my rounding hammer. Does the radiused edge of the far side draw faster? I assume you are talking about half hammer face blows?

I can't seem to get the pictures to work properly on this site. I size them before downloading and use the smallest size, but they always come out huge. You can hit command and the - button to zoom out though.

Thank you very much Mark, Rokshasa, and Caleb. I think a damascus rose would be way too labor intensive if trying to sell or make any money, but i have thought about the concept as an artistic point of view. Might do that some time! The roses are made from 16 ga sheet which i plasma cut the petals from. The stem is from 1/2 inch round stock which is upset to about 3/4 and butchered to make a tenon for the petals.. Then the stem is drawn out leaving the upset as the bud beneath the petals. I used hot rolled round stock and it works like butter at a nice bright heat. I just got a pair of Grants aspery tongs so i can start welding leaves onto the stems for a more custom look. The upsetting method was shown in Mark Aspery's book "the fundamentals of blacksmithing", Dick Fedder apparently showed Mark that and he put it in his book. Two guys i would like to meet someday! These roses are pretty labor intensive, but are great for hammer control and practice. Peening 60 petals will give the forearms a good work out!

Thanks. The roses are fun to make. Of course after making a dozen, the hand got a bit tired of peening the petals. My wifes grandma sure lit up when she got one for christmas!

Thanks guys!