Frosty

I can just see it now, in order to make a "proper" s-hook you first need to locate a 1000 pound crane hook.

And not too long after that, smiths on web sites, forums (fora?) lists and chats all over the planet will be arguing over which way it should point.

Frosty

Ask you local welding supplier for metal spray supplies. This is one supplier.
Metal Spray Supplies
Frosty

Almost undoubtably forged and probably not mild steel.

It'll make a fine anvil, I'd take it home in a heartbeat.

Frosty

Jet anvils look cool but they're cast iron. So unless you're starting an ASO collection and really REALLY want a Jet ASO you'd be better off passing.

There is of course a chance this one predates my first exposure to a Jet anvil in the late 70's around 77 I think and may be a decent working one. I doubt it though.

Frosty

If weathering is an issue use a marine epoxy with the welded studs in drilled holes method. Grit in the holes is a good idea as well, best is silica sand as it's pretty non-reactive.

Nice snake by the way. :cool:

Frosty

Babington Burner

A homemade waste oil burner

Babington Oil Burner HOWTO

These are just a few URLs regarding oil burners, most notably Babington burners. Searching "Babington burners" "waste oil burners" or "fuel oil burners" will put you into more info than you want.

A friend of mine has made a successful oil burner using an air brush as an injection nozzle.

I searched all but the first one as the links in my book were mostly all dead. One thing I noticed as I glanced through these I posted hasn't changed since I last looked a couple years ago. Virtually all of them are burning with a yellow flame.

There are blue flame oil burners out there but they have problems of their own. Containing the fire is a big item.

Good luck, play safe and keep us posted.

Frosty

You may want to look into a drip system with WVO being gravity fed. I STRONGLY recommend that you consider procedures to prevent a flame out situation, as re-ignition can make things very exciting.

Losing the blower tends to make any oil fired system into a fuel air bomb.

There's certainly no reason these things can't be done, we had a fuel oil forge in my high school metal shop. The thing is they can be really dangerous and the hazards aren't necessarily intuitive.

One method is to put a fuel oil burner from a boiler in a forge body. This is the fastest, easiest way to do it and have all the safety measures in place. It's basically plug and play.

WVO is okay if you filter it and do the precipitation steps to remove the harmful components. It certainly won't cause an explosive situation just by spilling or leaking onto the floor. Slip hazard? Oh yes but that's a small thing.

Frosty

It can be a real serious boom if the conditions are right and it doesn't make a lot of difference what the flamable material is.

A few years ago there were some pics and videos of a guy named George Goble (not the comedian) who lit BBQs with LOX. He'd pile a few lbs of charcoal briquettes in a BBQ with one lit one on top then pour LOX on the pile. REALLY spectacular show, super bright flame and afterward nothing but some bits of burnt and melted BBQ in a circle of scorched earth. Wicked COOL.

Son of a gun the pics are still out there. Last time I looked they'd been taken down and I couldn't find any. Seems like they're back.

2.5How To.html

The one serious hazard next to the obvious one was not having a lit briquette on the pile when you start pouring. If there's a burning briquette the pile just burns as fast as you can pour the LOX on till there's nothing flamable left.

If on the other hand you pour LOX on an unlit pile, then light it, it'll go off like an equal number of sticks of 80% dynamite. Even if you don't light it the oxy'll flow till it either finds an ignition source or finds something with a flash point below the ambient temp. Flash points in a pure oxy atmosphere are MUCH lower than in air.

LOX is fun stuff if you're the careful type otherwise it can be a real shattering experience.

Frosty

Thanks for posting these Randy.

I've only watched the first one so far but am planning on enjoying them thoroughly. Repeatedly.

Frosty

I just realized that my charcoal scraps and wood ashes would be good for my garden!

The iron scale is especially good for roses, makes the colors, especially reds, vivid. It's also good for any bright fruits and veggies. Just don't get too carried away there may be a toxic level.

Another use for wood ashes is dusting the snow on your walks and driveway. It absorbs sunlight and the slight increase in acidity speeds melting. It's also a good way to make ice non-slip. Well, less slippy anyway.

Frosty

I don't know if this has been brought up before, but Ken gave this link to one of our members yesterday. It's a 30 minute PBS documentary forging a hinge for the Woodwrights Shop. It's called the Sorrid Blacksmith no 2712PBS - Woodwright's Shop: Schedule
Travis

It's a good episode. There have been a number of episodes where Roy does some smithing or visits a smith. The episode I'd like to have in my video library is from many years back about ironing a sledge. Roy and the smith covered all the iron work necessary to make a horse drawn log sledge with double moccasin runners.

Very cool..

Frosty

Nice crow Sam. I'll bet they'd market nicely and there are plenty of variations. Say a jewelry holder. You know crows and shiney stuff.

Frosty

Any fuel in the presence of oxy under pressure is a fire/explosion hazard.

Fuel oil has a saturation point in air that is smack in the middle of it's flamable range. Any volatile will evaporate untill the air can't hold any more. Heating oil, diesel or parafin fuel oils will naturally evaporate untill it reaches a flamable ratio with the air it's in contact with and being saturated will not evaporate any more. This means that any air in an enclosed space with fuel oils is an explosive mixture.

Gasoline isn't as dangerous as it's saturation point is beyond it's flamable range, there isn't enough oxy left for it to burn in an enclosed space.

There are other problems with fuel oil fired forges but the danger posed by a spill is the biggest.

Frosty

Either that Valentin or we need all the help we can get!!
Finnr

I hear that Finn!

Frosty

I know it's lame but I wanted to celebrate my 100th post and first entry as a "senior member"

Talk about your Senior Moments!

Congratulations!

Beer's on you.

Frosty

Post #1 from THIS thread that we're posting in now...

Uh. . . Hmmmm. Didn't look at it till SOMEBODY paged me.

Maybe I aught to read a thread before replying eh?

Frosty

That's a heck of a forge!

Nice job all round.

Frosty

That really is Neat. . . Guy.

Seriously, a guy could do a lot with one. How's it work on solid stock?

Frosty

FYI: USPS flatrates have weight limits on them. Going over increases the rate though I don't know how much.

Frosty

got my new miniforge (6" dia X 10" long) fired up the other day using an oliver upwind burner....was at welding heat in under 10 minutes and i didnt even use ITC-100. Now i just have to tune my two burner forge to get that kinda heat outa it. pics enclosed if anyone is interested. btw i used a #60 as the orifice not the 57-58 he recommends.

Looking good.

How about some pics of and specs for the burner? I haven't heard of Oliver before, is there a URL? Details of how you build your forge, like refractory, insulated or not, etc. etc.

Thanks,

Frosty

I was just bumping this thread back up to the top.

I thought with your drilling background and there being some sort of competition with some hot shot drill builder you might have some input. :confused:

I seem to have missed that thread.

Then again, when I transfered off the drill crew I swore I'd never touch one again and that'd probably count for building one too.

Still, it might be fun to read. . .

Frosty

Bump......

Huh? Whazzat?

Frosty

Sounds like a good mix for teaching. I've discovered two kids learn much faster than one. Competition combined with pooling their brains I think.

You might consider a chip bed propane forge. They're common in europe, much more common than our reverberatory furnace type forges.

Chip bed forges work by injecting the air fuel mix into the bottom of a shallow pan filled with refractory chips. The fire heats the chips and the chips heat the work in turn. I supose this makes it a reverberatory system but I 'm not sure.

Anyway, visually they're very much like a solid fuel forge without the smoke, sparks, ash, clinker, etc.

While they'd be pretty expensive to buy and ship from europe they should be pretty easy to make. Not as easy as what we normally think of as a propane forge but no where near as difficult as a power hammer.

This is the URL of one supplier. Gas Forges: Metal & Heat Treatment Equipment: Flamefast

Frosty

Once a Goatman always a Goatman. Too late for hope now.

Sounds like you really need a couple more. Goats are herd animals and really need a buddy of the same species though they will adopt others.

Frosty (AKA: Old Goat & Goat Dad)

Hi Friends,

Any of you good folks know where we could buy some HC RR spikes for our high school blacksmithing class out here in Hawaii? Need about 30.

Thanks, Phil

Do they need to be RR spikes? I'm sure you could buy 9/16" or 5/8" sq. stock a lot cheaper. Even in Hawaii.

Heck it might be fun to make a header, have the kids forge their own RR spike, then make whatever you have in mind from them.

Frosty