wedwards

This wasn't offered entirely in jest. My point is that if you are getting involved in something that could quickly become unpleasant, always have a way out. Bill

Somebody's signature says it pretty well - your brain is the most powerful tool you have. As soon as I make a list of rules I would find soon enough, often painfully, that I had forgotten to include one. If we rely on lists we tend to look only at what is on the list to the exclusion of other things which, with a little thought, could be patently obvious. The one rule I have always followed with some success is if I have to ask myself what would happen if I tried something with tools and heavy/hot/explosive/flammable things I probably shouldn't try it. Think completely through the process before you even start. Ask yourself what is the worst thing that could happen if you screw it up and that's probably what will happen if you screw it up. If you are not completely comfortable with the safety aspect of whatever it is you are about to do you probably will screw it up if not get hurt. Find someone who knows and ask them. Don't get in a hurry. I belive in the adage, "PPPPPPP" - Proper Prior Planning Prevents P... Poor Performance. It doesn't work all the time but often enough to make my life easier. And I still have all my fingers. Bill

In the "Everything Else Category: Never get in a fight in an elevator. Bill

Might as well try that anvil. The ACME's didn't work very well, at least not against the roadrunner:) Bill

Kindrage, Study the info on this site about building a gas forge. There is a lot of info here. I also used internet searches and found even more. I have never cut into a propane tank so I can't help you there. Many people say don't do it, many say they have done it with no problems as long as safe procedures are used. For my money there are a lot of other things out there which will work fine as a forge body. When you get it built and lined DO NOT use red brick for a floor. Those are not designed to stand the temps found in even a poorly performing forge and you will be courting disaster. Ask your local block and steel company for high-temp firebrick. You will pay a few bucks per brick but you won't need many. I'd be curious to see if a weed burner would work as a forge burner. I've used them for weeds and my recollection is that they didn't seem very efficient or particularly hot. But if the flame is confined to a forge . . hmmm? EDIT: I just noticed you are in Weatherford, TX. You have to be close to places involved in the oil/gas production/transmission field. Look for a scrap end of 8/10/12" steel pipeline pipe. Unless you are going big you won't need more than 15" or 18" of it. Watch the wall thickness. Even short pieces can get heavy. Good luck. Let us know how it's going. Bill

Welcome to the forum, Heinze. There are a whole bunch of experienced folks here who can and will offer a lot of help. All you need to do is ask and then listen to and think about what they have to say. Check out the blueprints (if they are available right now) for gas forge plans. They aren't as hard to build as many folks think. Good luck and have a good time. Bill

I don't want to rain on your parade, and I do hope your friend can be a friend through "thick and thin". But it is not uncommon for known and trusted friends to quickly become otherwise if they get hurt and think it's your fault. I'm not recommending to not make the scorpion. Just don't make one that can be operated right out of the box. Let your customer know up front, in writing and keep a copy, that it is not designed or intended to be used. If he signs an acknowledgement, even better. That way if he fiddles with it and gets hurt you can show it's his fault not yours. A suit could still be filed but it might keep it from going anywhere. Just my $.02 worth. good luck. Bill

And dry. Bill

There ought to be more than a few crane, steel erection companies, machine shops, and the like somewhere close. If they don't have any pieces laying around they should be able to point you in the right direction. Good luck. Bill

Yep. I'm all for that myself - just as long as they live somewhere other than in, under, or around my house. I'll do what I can to encourage them to leave, just as I would with the two legged kind. If they won't leave it's an easy choice as to who has the better claim to my house and how to enforce it. With my skunk problem I at first took the high road and called our county pest control office. Because of a statewide rabies outbreak they had been adamant about reporting skunk problems. I assumed they were interested in trapping it for rabies testing. I was told, and this is not an exaggeration, that once I got the skunk I was to cut the head off and send it to the state veterinary lab for rabies testing. I said, aah, ok (long pause here) let's assume I get that far, and that the USPS, FedEx, or UPS will accept the package in the first place, who will pay for the testing? They told me I would have to. Even though I have worked for the government for many years that is when I truly appreciated that it was not there to help me and I was pretty much on my own. Bill

Welcome to the forum. There is a wealth of information available here from members who have a wealth of experience. If you ask for a critique or an opinion you will get it. It may not be precisely what you want to hear but it will be constructive. I have not seen a single response on this forum which was demeaning, derisive, or anything other than a reflection of a sincere desire to help improve both the craftsman and the craft. Bill

Is that what is now called "a teachable moment'? I've had a lot of those but fortunately most were "Whew! I'm glad that didn't hurt any more than it did" moments. I'm glad you were out of the way. Bill

Had a skunk problem in my garage once. We tried luring it out, live trapping, mothballs. Nothing worked on this particular skunk. Since it appeared to have moved in for the winter I elected to shoot it and debated between a 12ga. and a .22. I had heard that a clean head shot will drop them without a chance to spray, plus I was not anxious to be in a garage with a hundred thirty or fourty lead pellets ricocheting around so I used the .22. The .22 did what it was designed to do and the skunk did the same. So much for the head shot theory. Dead skunks smell even worse than live ones. Moral? If you are going to shoot it get it as far away from the house as possible. And, yes, mine is an attached garage. Good luck. Bill

Exquisite! Thanks for sharing it.

Right now I'm using two 40# RV tanks. When one runs out the other one is right there. Since I don't run the forge all day I have plenty of time to refill. If I live long enough to retire I am seriously considering getting a 300 gal tank and running a line into the garage/smithy which will serve both the forge and the heater (I don't forge every time I'm in the garage). One local supplier leases them for about $30 per year plus the cost of filling. The first fill bites a little but it's less per pound than buying it 20 or 40 lbs at a time. Plus they don't charge for delivery(YMMV). It might be worth checking the bulk prices. Bill

Yeah, my insurance agent, thankfully, doesn't know squat about gas forges but he has seen my high efficiency gas grill in the garage. I'd hate to have to show him how efficiently it will cook a steak. Bill

That's a good job but I also like the building. If the planks for the door weren't hand hewn they were made to look that way. That is an authentic touch which gives the whole thing that much more character. Thanks for sharing it. Bill

I learned many years ago that if one argues with a fool soon there are just two fools arguing. So I am neither arguing nor am I insulted. This thread certainly has not been a contest to me. I made my living for thirty years being paid for advice. Most took it and it worked out fine for them. Many did not and I made even more money straightening out their mess. If I was insulted back then it was only until I got to the bank. If I were licensed in NM I would like having you as a client. Good luck on the installation. I really do mean it. AR SK

Farmer12888, You have asked us for input on mounting the hammer, I assumed to help you think through the project and explore options. There have been more than a few replies from people with a LOT of experience. They have given you the input you asked for and you argue with it calling it negative and discouraging. It appears that you knew from the beginning how you were going to install the hammer so why did you ask for advice? I have been a member here for only a very short time but I think I know enough about the members here that if I were to look for a "yes man" I would not likely find one on this forum. Good luck in your project. I hope your plan works safely and you prove all of us wrong. Bill

A guy tried something like that a few years back with a hammer like one that according to the GAO cost the guvmint $1000. He sent it in in place of taxes owed. The IRS was not amused. Hammers, concrete chucks, steel drops and such are apparently not considered even legal tender let alone a medium of exchange by Uncle Sam. Bill

I meant to add (to keep the thread on track) that the springs idea is not inherently bad. Apparently there are hammers mounted on springs which work quite well. I will bet the installation is professionally designed to account for center of gravity, balanced and calibrated springs, even balance etc. to ensure uniform and symmetrical movement. If not I'd think that the hammer could get to rocking in ways which at least could make it difficult to keep your work on the anvil. But it may work just fine. Try it and let us know what you find. I'd be interested to hear. Bill

05H20, 05H40, Taipei, Taiwan, Chitose, Japan, and a special operations unit that so far as I know they still don't want us to talk about. Don't want to highjack the thread here but it's your thread and you started it:p Bill

It is. 1964-1970.

Unless there is a profit on the deal the tax issue is probably not significant, but good records are always a good idea. Also, be sure to have a firm understanding up front about what each party can expect from the other. Without that, if you do the bartering very often, sooner or later there will be a problem. Shoot, sooner or later there will be a problem anyway. It's just easier to sort it out if there is an upfront agreement. Don't ask me how I know this. Bill

I'm no engineer but I have ridden in autos with springs but no shocks. Nakedanvil is right. Springs are springs. As long as they are stout enough to provide rebound, without dampening (i.e. shocks) you probably will not be happy with the result. A proper sized concrete pad on undisturbed soil and isolated from the rest of the surrounding concrete floor makes very good sense. Bill