wedwards

Thanks, Kevan. Fine job, by the way. Bill

Frosty, That was one of the best explanations of a practical method of testing relatively unknown steel I have ever seen. I've read quite a few such explanations from several sources. Yours is far and away the easiest to follow and understand. Thanks. On a related note, I am told that hardened bolts showing a yellowish or bronze-like color may contain cadmium which can be risky to heat because of the fumes. Don't know for sure - just passing on what I've heard. Bill

Probably the kind with pictures of dead presidents.

What are the dimensions of the chimney and the hood? An earlier IFI article on a modified "super sucker" side draft hood suggested that the area of the hood opening to the hearth should smaller than the cross sectional area of the chimney (allowing the interior of the hood to act as an expansion chamber) for it to draw well. Your hood opening appears to be noticeably larger than the chimney and still capable of "sucking the buttons off your shirt". Thanks. Bill

That's a good idea but I'd think we'd have a pretty big group :rolleyes:

I'm closer to 70 than I ever thought I would be. Smoking or not I'm - Bill the lucky :D

I don't know if I smoke after sex or not. I've never looked. Bill

After 65 the liquor stores practically give me my whiskey - but I still get asked for an ID when I buy my pipe tobacco. Go figger. Bill

Thanks for that, Ken. It's stripped and still intact but looks even uglier than when painted. I hope I can use it but it does have some damage. My friend was so proud to have found it and carried it from BC to Wyoming on the plane. I'd hate to have to tell him it's a good garden ornament but not much use in the shop. I'll post all the pictures in a day or two and see if I can get some info and opinions. If all else fails I guess I can use it until it fails or falls apart and then go from there. I think I know about how much he paid for it and I'm afraid he may have been taken for a ride. On the good side it does have some rebound and while it doesn't sound like the bells of St. Mary, it does have a ring to it. We'll see. Bill

Think it's ugly dressed up? Wait till you see it naked.

I guess I'm confused. I got the photo to the gallery and the gallery url's to the forum, but for some reason there is no thumbnail appearing in the forum. Glenn's instructions on posting photos seems to say the thumbnail should appear automatically. Can someone help?

Let's see if this works -

Well, I got the link to the photo but no thumbnail. I'll keep trying.

I got it stripped. Here is a before photo. I hope it got resized properly. If this works I'll be posting more. Hopefully someone can tell me something about this anvil.

If anyone is interested I intend to do just that. When my wife and I get caught up with ourselves I will get moving on the cleanup and B&A photos. Since this is my first retirement I didn't realize just how much work was involved in getting things wrapped up after 32 years. I will know better next time. Thanks to all for the info. Bill

The "fairly robust and hard to damage" part hits the nail squarely on the head. I know that much about an anvil. If they were indestructable I would not have asked the question. I just got to thinking that this anvil was made a long time before the first chemical paint stripper. There is a history behind my signature line Thanks for the replies everyone . Bill

A few days ago I received an anvil from a non-blacksmith friend as a retirement gift. Unfortunately it had been sandblasted and painted. I know only that it is a Wilkinson approximatly 100#. Except for the Wilkinson name and crossed ovals much of the other markings are covered by the paint (and I hope not obliterated by the sandblasting). I want to examine the manufacturer's marks for its history and as I understand that the heels and bicks on Wilkinsons are prone to breakage, to check for hidden damage before I use it. In searching the forum it appears that paint stripper is the preferred cleaning method but I haven't found anything about whether one stripping compound is preferable over another. I suspect any good formula would take care of the paint but is there any that could harm the metal and should be avoided? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill

Nuge, I am definitely interested in your blower. I sent you a PM w/my e-mail address. I'm in NE Wyoming and I could almost drive up and get it. Let me know. Bill

Black Maple, There are inexpensive welders and there are cheap welders. They are not necessarily, or even very often, the same. Don't define inexpensive by the price tag. You might pay a little more up front for a good one but in the long run it usually costs less. There is a reason the HF, CH and big box store welders don't cost much and the Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart do. Go with the best you can afford even if you have to pay a little more on the front end. You will be happier in the long run. And there is nothing wrong with a used red or blue or grey welder if you are sure it's in good shape. I'll bet there are a lot of bargains out there right now. Just my $.02. Good luck. Bill

As a customer - to be made to feel that I am welcome in that business as a customer or potential customer even though I might not make a purchase that day, and to be made to feel that the business is interested in meeting my needs. As a provider - to understand that most people in my place of business are looking for information if not a product and to show them I am interested in meeting their needs. Also to ensure that my employees understand this as well. It's trite but true - I will never get a second chance to make a first impression. Good or bad, the first impression is the one the customer leaves with. Bill

Just as it goes into the roller you could say, "B flat, saxaphone."

Or celibacy Bill

David Hannum famously said, "There's a sucker born every minute." This guy is simply trying to find one of them. Bill

Probably it would. Just think of some of the other cr.p that some people present as art. Bill